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MY feroza has only done 125 000kms and i have just had the head rebult, i took it off and put it on but had a professional do the actual head work. IM going through about 1L or more of oil per 100-200kms. The plugs look great and blows absolutely no smoke so im assuming it isnt being burnt. WE have put it on the hoist and there is hardly any oily spots under and it leaves no spots on the garage floor. This has got me, my old man and my mate who is a mechanic completely stumped!
When the head was off the bore was in great conditon, we used new gaskets all round and the head was shaved so im really doubting it is the head.
The only thing i can think of is maybe it leaks oil out of the rear main seal when under pressure or on a steep positive gradient, however i would expect to see a lot of oil under the car.
Can anyone think of any other method the oil could disapear?
IMO that's too much oil for it to be hiding in the bellhousing without leaking out or affecting the clutch so I'd have to say its getting burnt.... IIRC theres a cover blate at the bottom of the belhousing so you could taki it off and have a look but its certainly not designed to be oiltight so it will leak out.
There really are just the two options leak or burn and your pretty certain its not a leak so.......
( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
Cheers. This weekend ill chuck it back on the hoist and take the cover off the bellhousing, I want to check everything before taking the head off again. This has amazed anyone who has seen the car in person, im more confident it isnt burning oil than dropping it. Hmm
Sounds like you (or the previous owner) have been running on standard unleaded and it's been pinging its guts out, especially seeing that you've just had the head done. If so, it's most likely a bottom end problem... Dunno why, but the HD-E just seems to be like that, no smoke but a heap of oil consumption.
AJFeroza wrote:Sounds like you (or the previous owner) have been running on standard unleaded and it's been pinging its guts out, especially seeing that you've just had the head done. If so, it's most likely a bottom end problem... Dunno why, but the HD-E just seems to be like that, no smoke but a heap of oil consumption.
Personally i don't run 98, i do a lots of backcountry trips etc and get very variable fuel quality so I tune it to run on 91. Even then I've had some crap fuel....
AJ's point is very valid but if you have low octane fuel and you require 98 then things get worse very quickly. Feroza detonation is very common and seems to be a combustion chamber temperature issue.
There also doesn't seem to be an easy cure, i suspect its a waterflow/waterpump design issue. Was making a replacement water pump but have given up on Daihatsu engines..... and so there was no need to finish it.
( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
could be incorrectly installed valve stem seals but would blow atleast some smoke.
hold motor on about 3000 rpm for a minute or 2 and see if it starts blowing smoke then.
the bores whernt glazed over??
are you checking the oil the same everytime????
incorrect head gasket used? sometimes the wrong holes are punched out and where holes are supposed to be punched out there blocked off blocking the oil and or water gallerys. i would think a feroza rocker cover would hold about a 1L of oil and would take a considerable time to drain back to the sump if this where the case. meaning if u are checking whilst still hot it doesnt have time to drain.
i would explore all other options first.
pressure test all cylinders
I am also having the problem of oil dissapearing in my feroza.
I replaced the engine about 25000kms ago (with a fully rebuilt feroza engine).
Since then, i have used Castrol Magnatec.
I recently had to send the car back for a blown head gasket..... and then
I started to notice that i was losing oil after a while. The 1st 2000 or so kms(after each service) would be fine, but after that it would disapear quite quickly.
There are no leaks, I have checked everything. Have even checked the coolant.
I have also done a compression test - which was fine.
I usually use regular unleaded fuel (i have never had a problem with it before)
Last service I changed to a thicker oil, thinking that maybe the Magnatec was too thin. But when i checked the oil 2 days ago it was almost empty.
It's been driving me crazy so hopefully someone will be able to help us.
If you're running 91 RON fuel, and she's pinging, then you WILL use a sh!tload more oil. Try either backing your timing off a little to avoid the pinging (also may give you a little less throttle responsiveness ), or start running 95 RON fuel.
I've run mine almost exclusively on E10 fuel (94 RON) for the past 5 years and have had no problems with pinging. Different story when I occasionally have to run standard fuel.
HD series engines suffer from ring flutter quite badly. This allows oil into the combuston chamber and greatly increases oil consumption and does nothing to help detonation.
This is more pronounced at higher revs, so if your reving it hardish say 3500+ then its a possible explanation.
In the old manual gearbox days if i misssed a change and gave it the big rev...... it would ping its head off till the oil that got by the rings cleared out of the chambers, continue to keep it at full load and it just kept pinging - backing off was the solution although not always convienient.
Timing is very important on HD engines, although my pet theory is the underlying cause is inadequate or uneven water circulation in the head. Unfortunately that's hard to fix and so carefull timing control is the only practical solution. Part of my login is that mine will take heaps more advance when the engines coldish... but past a certain temperature it suddenly gets cranky.
( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
Mine is pinging right now so that might be the problem. It's set to factory timing but I will play around with it and try to get it right.
And i do often drive it at high revs. Where I live there are many big hills i need to climb and if it drops below 3500 then i need to shift down so i like to keep the revs high. Will be a bit of a pain if i need to change the way i drive.
Well I hope its an explanation that works out..... I sort of tune by ear.
Also make certain the vacuum lines to the distributor ar connected AND the corect way aroud. Theres a Main and Sub diaphram and it matters which is connected where - the manual is not particularly helpfull in getting it the right way around.
IIRC theres' a better picture in the emission control section than in the engine or ignition section.
Also the internal bearing that the ignition pickup/module sits on in the distributor body has a bad habbit of getting sticky ( the grease gets gritty ) which also doesn't help smooth operation.
Have had a knock sensor on mine to detect detonation and its quite a fine line so don't go overboard in the retard - tune and try etc etc.
( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
I run mine on the advanced side as it gives me the accelaration. When I use my timing light it shows it running advanced but the increase in power is what i need. As well as the power increase I notice that when the car first starts in the morning it doesnt hesitate as it does when the timimg is where its suppose to be. Does any one else run their car advanced?
), or start running 95 RON fuel.