4.2 diesel boost

Post by **nissannewby** » Mon Mar 30, 2009 8:09 pm

hey own a gq4.2 diesel with a dts aftermarket turbo kit just wondering what sort of boost you stuff up the nose of one these motors
cheers

Post by **forefold** » Mon Mar 30, 2009 8:15 pm

I run a TO3 on my td42, haven't pushed it past 10 psi........YET!

Post by **nissannewby** » Mon Mar 30, 2009 8:18 pm

yeah i am currenlty running 11psi on it at the moment with no dramas

Post by **big bundy** » Mon Mar 30, 2009 8:21 pm

14 or there abouts because my pump is stuffed, cool it and you won't have a problem. its the EGT's that kill these motors!

Mon Mar 30, 2009 10:09 pm

was running 22 psi for over 12 months now with intercooler at about 18 psi , cant kill these motors

Post by **azzad** » Tue Mar 31, 2009 7:29 am

I reckon you should wind it up to at least 30 psi

Post by **bogged** » Tue Mar 31, 2009 7:59 am

azzad wrote:I reckon you should wind it up to at least 30 psi

Local tuning bloke found the end point for his 50psi, rod thru block...

Post by **sidewayz** » Tue Mar 31, 2009 10:18 am

mine: non intercooled, 220kms on clock, 13psi.

Post by **coxy321** » Tue Mar 31, 2009 10:18 am

bogged wrote:
azzad wrote:I reckon you should wind it up to at least 30 psi
Local tuning bloke found the end point for his 50psi, rod thru block...

Andy? Yes, that is an impressive paperweight....

Post by **gqmad** » Tue Mar 31, 2009 12:15 pm

i had mine running around 23 psi was very healthy, no dramas at all.
the only thing you will find is if you go past 22 - 23 psi, your injectors get clogged up very quickly, thats considering your pump is also done and that you are flowing more fuel.

Post by **azzad** » Tue Mar 31, 2009 4:22 pm

bogged wrote:
azzad wrote:I reckon you should wind it up to at least 30 psi
Local tuning bloke found the end point for his 50psi, rod thru block...

Well in that case go for broke and try and beat 50psi

Post by **Ash.brown** » Tue Mar 31, 2009 5:37 pm

got a mate thats been running mid 20's for more than 12months he hasnt had a problem yet.

Post by **forefold** » Tue Mar 31, 2009 5:55 pm

The people who are running over 10 psi with "no problems" , are the engines stock? do they have differnent head gaskets to standard? any other mods? I would like to wind mine up a little but don't want problems with longativity. Do you use a bleed off valve to get the higher boost?

Post by **bogged** » Tue Mar 31, 2009 5:58 pm

forefold wrote:The people who are running over 10 psi with "no problems" , are the engines stock? do they have differnent head gaskets to standard? any other mods? I would like to wind mine up a little but don't want problems with longativity. Do you use a bleed off valve to get the higher boost?

you can run 20psi on a bog stock engine.

if you wantg it to last for ever 12psi is good.

Post by **forefold** » Tue Mar 31, 2009 6:01 pm

Whats the best way to wind her up? Tee peice bleed valve?

Post by **marin** » Tue Mar 31, 2009 6:11 pm

forefold wrote:Whats the best way to wind her up? Tee peice bleed valve?

Boost controller

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Turbotech-manual ... dZViewItem

marin

Post by **money_killer** » Tue Mar 31, 2009 6:54 pm

marin wrote:
forefold wrote:Whats the best way to wind her up? Tee peice bleed valve?
Boost controller

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Turbotech-manual ... dZViewItem

marin

that is point less u need more fuel. its mechanical injection remember

running 11psi atm with no dramas 180k on the clock also

Post by **forefold** » Tue Mar 31, 2009 7:05 pm

Generaly how far can you go with a standard fuel pump?

Post by **money_killer** » Tue Mar 31, 2009 7:18 pm

forefold wrote:Generaly how far can you go with a standard fuel pump?

have heard guys say around 16psi with standard pump

Post by **300WinMag** » Tue Mar 31, 2009 9:09 pm

You can run what ever boost your turbo will produce with stock pump, ie I was running 20psi. But you will find that your air fuel ratio leans right out and you wont produce any more HP/KW because you don't have the fuel to support it. One advantage of this is that when you use water to air intercooler your egts run very low, I couldn't get mine over 400 deg C even when towing accross NT in the middle of summer. However you need to find out what boost your turbo can safely produce before it flies to bits and destroys your motor. Do a google search for the make and model of turbo and ask for a turbo map/ boost graph which will tell you the turbos max recomended rpm before disintergration occurs. I also use a Pyrometre/ Egt gauge, cheap insurance to prevent cooking your engine and turbo, also helps to tune your pump. I am now running 2005 GU pump with boost compensator and new turbo injectors from Andy Deisel Tech, 20psi egts still below 500 deg C and breaks traction in second gear. Will dyno next week.

Post by **bogged** » Tue Mar 31, 2009 9:13 pm

IMWO, I'd recommend gettin it done properly by someone with a dyno. It will cost you money, but the result will be better, and fuel/air/egt levels will be fine.

With diesels, over fuelling can be extremely fatal...

Post by **azzad** » Wed Apr 01, 2009 7:24 am

300WinMag wrote:But you will find that your air fuel ratio leans right out

Are the generic air fuel ratio guages that you can buy of any use when setting up and monitoring a turbo diesel?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Race-Tech-Smoke- ... 240%3A1318

This is the first one that came up; not suggesting it is what I would purchase.

Dazza

Post by **coxy321** » Wed Apr 01, 2009 7:43 am

azzad wrote:
300WinMag wrote:But you will find that your air fuel ratio leans right out
Are the generic air fuel ratio guages that you can buy of any use when setting up and monitoring a turbo diesel?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Race-Tech-Smoke- ... 240%3A1318

This is the first one that came up; not suggesting it is what I would purchase.

Dazza

They are the bigger POS gauges on the market. I got a full set for my 180B (oil press., boost, RPM, Air/Fuel), and they're just terrible. All electronic, with a 1 sec. refresh rate on auxiliary gauges. Basically i can nail it, hit full boost, back off and the gauge is just starting to pick up the boost rise.

There was also no mention of the type of lambda sensor the AF gauge takes, 50/50 chance (wide band or narrow band), and i got the wrong one.

I'm not too sure how those types of air/fuel sensors will work on a diesel either. I'm guessing that they wont.

A proper Speco or Autometer gauge set is on my to do list (for the Datto).

Post by **300WinMag** » Wed Apr 01, 2009 7:48 am

If you get it dynoed they should be able to graph Air fuel ratio for you. This will not change unless you ajust your pump again so I don't see any advantage to have a A/F R gauge, I do all my own tunning by watching the EGT temps and the boost gauge, I also have the use of my mates dyno for free. But unless you have expierience working with diesels I recomend getting it dynoed by someone who knows their shit. I've seen alot of Dyno places do some dodgy shit like over fueling tourers 4bys up at Cairns just to get the numbers on paper then when they go for a trip their using 17ltrs and running hot. So its worth doing it right.

Post by **azzad** » Wed Apr 01, 2009 2:12 pm

That is how I have set mine up; was just curious and as I said the brand was just the first one that came up not something I would buy, intended as example only.

Using the analagy that once it is setup on a dyno it shouldnt change, why do you need one, could be said for boost and egt also.

Still curious to see if this sort of guage (not this brand) could be used as a tool for tuning and monitoring.

Dazza

Post by **coxy321** » Wed Apr 01, 2009 2:21 pm

azzad wrote:Still curious to see if this sort of guage (not this brand) could be used as a tool for tuning and monitoring.

Air/Fuel guages on diesels, click HERE for a MOTEC explanation including a conversion table.

azzad wrote:Using the analagy that once it is setup on a dyno it shouldnt change, why do you need one, could be said for boost and egt also.

Unfortunately, things change. Humidity, air temp, elevation, driving conditions, wearing of components, fuel quality etc etc etc all plays a part in screwing up your perfect tune. Why do you think race teams (F1, V8's) have on-the-fly ECU adjustments?

They're also there to tell you when components fail, so you can stop the car before it does a ZD30. (eg. bleeding wastegate actuator, loose screw/nut on fuel pump, boost spikes, crook injector)

Post by **bogged** » Wed Apr 01, 2009 3:09 pm

azzad wrote:Using the analagy that once it is setup on a dyno it shouldnt change, why do you need one, could be said for boost and egt also.

any engine's tune changes over time. None on earth are set and forget.

Post by **300WinMag** » Wed Apr 01, 2009 6:28 pm

I agree with all the above, just didn't want to over complicate things. At the end of the day if you drive your fourby to the egt gauge you can't go wrong. ie if there is suddenly a heat wave and you are towing a house up Hawksbry hill and egt gets up to 550 deg C you either back off abit or go back a gear and keep the rpms up around 2500 to 3000rpm which keeps the air flow going to cool engine down. With my set up I don't need to worrie about it as I have maxed my pump out and can't get my egts over 500 deg C. Before I intercooled it I used to change my tunes for summer and winter to keep egts in safe operating area.

Post by **azzad** » Wed Apr 01, 2009 9:16 pm

coxy321 wrote:
azzad wrote:Still curious to see if this sort of guage (not this brand) could be used as a tool for tuning and monitoring.
Air/Fuel guages on diesels, click HERE for a MOTEC explanation including a conversion table.

azzad wrote:Using the analagy that once it is setup on a dyno it shouldnt change, why do you need one, could be said for boost and egt also.
Unfortunately, things change. Humidity, air temp, elevation, driving conditions, wearing of components, fuel quality etc etc etc all plays a part in screwing up your perfect tune. Why do you think race teams (F1, V8's) have on-the-fly ECU adjustments?

They're also there to tell you when components fail, so you can stop the car before it does a ZD30. (eg. bleeding wastegate actuator, loose screw/nut on fuel pump, boost spikes, crook injector)

Thankyou for the link. (havent read it yet)

I never suggested once things dont change somebody else did and as previously said I have both egt and boost for monitoring and tuning.

As I have now said 3 times I was just wondering if it could also be used as another tuning/monitoring tool. Just coz egt and boost guages are the norm doesnt mean they are specifically a better choice does it? If air/fuel ratios are used extensively with dyno tuning they cant be a bad tool.

An air/fuel ratio would also give you good indication of over fueling specifically.

Dazza

Post by **krittas** » Wed Apr 01, 2009 10:44 pm

i have a dts kit on mine (255k) and are running 14lbs of boost....noticed that my egts have gone down abit...but need to do some work on the pump i think to get any more out of it...
I just used a turbo smart manual boost controller which is worth about $50 in the local hi po shop.....does the job...

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