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G16A wont fire!! Please help!
G16A wont fire!! Please help!
Hey peoples..
I have almost finished my vitara motor conversion (put a G16A EFI from a 1994 vitara, into my 1991 WT sierra) but I have one problem.. it wont go!!! Myself and a mate stripped the wiring back, and hooked it all up. The eng winds over fine, but it wont fire. So I checked the leads, plugs, fuel, etc, and the problem seems to be the spark. With the ignition on, the coil + has around 12V.. but when cranking, it drops to 6V.. and then when you release they key from the cranking position, back up to 12V it goes!! I understand this drop MAY be normal.. but the weird part is, just as I release the key from the cranking position, it gives a tiny little fire. Another thing, when I hook the timing light up, the timing light only flashes just as I release the key, the same time it tries to fire. So, it seems like the coil/dizzy isn’t getting full power when cranking. I am going to double check all earths etc tonight.. but does anyone have any other ideas please??!! Coil lead maybe?? Thanks for your help!
I have almost finished my vitara motor conversion (put a G16A EFI from a 1994 vitara, into my 1991 WT sierra) but I have one problem.. it wont go!!! Myself and a mate stripped the wiring back, and hooked it all up. The eng winds over fine, but it wont fire. So I checked the leads, plugs, fuel, etc, and the problem seems to be the spark. With the ignition on, the coil + has around 12V.. but when cranking, it drops to 6V.. and then when you release they key from the cranking position, back up to 12V it goes!! I understand this drop MAY be normal.. but the weird part is, just as I release the key from the cranking position, it gives a tiny little fire. Another thing, when I hook the timing light up, the timing light only flashes just as I release the key, the same time it tries to fire. So, it seems like the coil/dizzy isn’t getting full power when cranking. I am going to double check all earths etc tonight.. but does anyone have any other ideas please??!! Coil lead maybe?? Thanks for your help!
F&R ARB air lockers, lux diffs, 4 link coil rear, drop shackles, inboarded ranchos, stage 4 reduction gears, 35" silverstones, 9500 winch, RUF, 1.6 EFI, swimming goggles
I have the wire from the computer called "starting circuit" wired into the original 1.3 lume.. i have checked this, and it supplys 12-13V while cranking. I will look into this more though, perhaps theres another wire that needs cranking +.. Thanks mateyJaffa wrote:Sounds like the ignition isn't wired so it is supplied power while cranking, had the same thing when I fitted electronic ignition to a 2wd years ago, find an ignition on source (that says on when cranking) and wire your ignition/computer/whatever else is required to that
F&R ARB air lockers, lux diffs, 4 link coil rear, drop shackles, inboarded ranchos, stage 4 reduction gears, 35" silverstones, 9500 winch, RUF, 1.6 EFI, swimming goggles
Not yet no I have checked the firing order, and made sure no 1 is corresponding with the rotor button.. but havent checked if the timing is out 180. Apart from checking the timing belt/rocker gear, is there another way of doing this?? Could i get no 1 on TDC, and make sure the timing mark on the harmonic balancer is lined up??v840 wrote:Have you checked your timing isn't 180 out?
Other than that I'd be throwing a new coil in and seeing what happens.
F&R ARB air lockers, lux diffs, 4 link coil rear, drop shackles, inboarded ranchos, stage 4 reduction gears, 35" silverstones, 9500 winch, RUF, 1.6 EFI, swimming goggles
getting fuel and spark up there?
is fuel pump running when cranking?
is its spark only, maybe have a look at ignightor and coil. do both have voltage? is dizzy ok?
make sure u got all the damn earths on and +'ve off the ecu too
is fuel pump running when cranking?
is its spark only, maybe have a look at ignightor and coil. do both have voltage? is dizzy ok?
make sure u got all the damn earths on and +'ve off the ecu too
[url=http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?p=930942#930942&highlight=]Zook[/url]
U SUK Zook Built and Sold.
New rig is 97 80 DX. 2" list 33s
U SUK Zook Built and Sold.
New rig is 97 80 DX. 2" list 33s
Has got apsrk when cranking.. but bugga all. Is getting fuel yes. It also floods the plugs up quite easily!! The coil and igniter both have power.. but dont know if its the right amount or not? The dizzy looks almost brand new inside.. the cap is dodgy, so i've ordered a new one. I have tried a "good" cap on there a few days ago, made no difference though. I know the spark plugs are working, but I'll get some new ones tonight, might help!!nicbeer wrote:getting fuel and spark up there?
is fuel pump running when cranking?
is its spark only, maybe have a look at ignightor and coil. do both have voltage? is dizzy ok?
make sure u got all the damn earths on and +'ve off the ecu too
F&R ARB air lockers, lux diffs, 4 link coil rear, drop shackles, inboarded ranchos, stage 4 reduction gears, 35" silverstones, 9500 winch, RUF, 1.6 EFI, swimming goggles
stupid Q - battery doing cranking is good?
any error codes coming up? not sure if it has to start to register a trigger.
and jonno had fault the other day - fuel pump is triggered from ecu?
sounds like a earth/power fault still as u said maybe voltage...
any error codes coming up? not sure if it has to start to register a trigger.
and jonno had fault the other day - fuel pump is triggered from ecu?
sounds like a earth/power fault still as u said maybe voltage...
[url=http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?p=930942#930942&highlight=]Zook[/url]
U SUK Zook Built and Sold.
New rig is 97 80 DX. 2" list 33s
U SUK Zook Built and Sold.
New rig is 97 80 DX. 2" list 33s
Thats cool matey.. the battery is still near new.. and has the most grunt for the size. I havent got the check eng light hooked up yet.. will hopefully do that tonight to. I will take it to get tested for codes once i exhaust all other avenues!! hehe Yup.. the fuel pump works for around 2 secs when the ign is "on".. then cuts out.. so thats all good. Any idea about the timing being 180 out?? (see a few posts up ^ ^ )nicbeer wrote:stupid Q - battery doing cranking is good?
any error codes coming up? not sure if it has to start to register a trigger.
and jonno had fault the other day - fuel pump is triggered from ecu?
sounds like a earth/power fault still as u said maybe voltage...
F&R ARB air lockers, lux diffs, 4 link coil rear, drop shackles, inboarded ranchos, stage 4 reduction gears, 35" silverstones, 9500 winch, RUF, 1.6 EFI, swimming goggles
not sure. did u take out dizzy at any time?
and did u have this running in the front cut?
did some googling thou.
#####
bring #1 cylinder up to top dead center. then pull the cap off and chek to see if the rotor is on the #1 plug wire.if its notthen you pull the distributor and turn so that its facing #1.
#####
Another i found
take the bolt out of the base and hold down out. Lift the distributor up turn the rotor. This is how i do it unplug the distributor plugs those three small wires under the cap remove the left front #1 spark plug have some one tap the engine crank it over a little at a time with your finger over the spark plug hole. When the piston rises on compression stroke it will blow your finger off wave your other arm so dipstick at the ingnition stops tapping the starter. Now carefully turn the engine wrench on crank pulley until the timing pointer lines up with the crankshaft mark. That is top dead center #1 and the distributor rotor need now to be pointed at #1 plug wire. Lift up the previously loosened distributor turn the rotor to where #1 wire is wiggle the rotor Lower the distributor and hope it falls right back into the hole. Reinstall the dold down and bolt tighten it a little but where you can grab the dist. Cap and turn the dist.. Now dust off the timing light . That first drop might do it put #1 spark plug back in . if the engine starts now set the timing. Repete as necessary It take me a couple of trys some times
Source(s):
and did u have this running in the front cut?
did some googling thou.
#####
bring #1 cylinder up to top dead center. then pull the cap off and chek to see if the rotor is on the #1 plug wire.if its notthen you pull the distributor and turn so that its facing #1.
#####
Another i found
take the bolt out of the base and hold down out. Lift the distributor up turn the rotor. This is how i do it unplug the distributor plugs those three small wires under the cap remove the left front #1 spark plug have some one tap the engine crank it over a little at a time with your finger over the spark plug hole. When the piston rises on compression stroke it will blow your finger off wave your other arm so dipstick at the ingnition stops tapping the starter. Now carefully turn the engine wrench on crank pulley until the timing pointer lines up with the crankshaft mark. That is top dead center #1 and the distributor rotor need now to be pointed at #1 plug wire. Lift up the previously loosened distributor turn the rotor to where #1 wire is wiggle the rotor Lower the distributor and hope it falls right back into the hole. Reinstall the dold down and bolt tighten it a little but where you can grab the dist. Cap and turn the dist.. Now dust off the timing light . That first drop might do it put #1 spark plug back in . if the engine starts now set the timing. Repete as necessary It take me a couple of trys some times
Source(s):
[url=http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?p=930942#930942&highlight=]Zook[/url]
U SUK Zook Built and Sold.
New rig is 97 80 DX. 2" list 33s
U SUK Zook Built and Sold.
New rig is 97 80 DX. 2" list 33s
have you checked with a multimeter that the crank angle sensor is actually picking up a signal from the rotor correctly?get it up there wrote:Thats cool matey.. the battery is still near new.. and has the most grunt for the size. I havent got the check eng light hooked up yet.. will hopefully do that tonight to. I will take it to get tested for codes once i exhaust all other avenues!! hehe Yup.. the fuel pump works for around 2 secs when the ign is "on".. then cuts out.. so thats all good. Any idea about the timing being 180 out?? (see a few posts up ^ ^ )nicbeer wrote:stupid Q - battery doing cranking is good?
any error codes coming up? not sure if it has to start to register a trigger.
and jonno had fault the other day - fuel pump is triggered from ecu?
sounds like a earth/power fault still as u said maybe voltage...
lwb 1.6efi,4sp auto,f&r airlockers,dual t/cases.custom coils.builder of ROAD LEGAL custom suzukis...and other stuff.
CAD modelling-TECH drawings-DXF preparation.
http://www.auszookers.com/index.php
CAD modelling-TECH drawings-DXF preparation.
http://www.auszookers.com/index.php
Thanks nicbeer and v840.. i'll look into that!!
Joeblow.. hhmmm, nope.. havent done that one.. will also look into that!! I tested the spark plug leads the other day, they tested fine (so numerous people have told me). I just tested the coil lead.. i tested it in 20K ohms, and it tested 1.19.. is this ok??
Joeblow.. hhmmm, nope.. havent done that one.. will also look into that!! I tested the spark plug leads the other day, they tested fine (so numerous people have told me). I just tested the coil lead.. i tested it in 20K ohms, and it tested 1.19.. is this ok??
F&R ARB air lockers, lux diffs, 4 link coil rear, drop shackles, inboarded ranchos, stage 4 reduction gears, 35" silverstones, 9500 winch, RUF, 1.6 EFI, swimming goggles
Have also tried this.. it did improve the voltage while cranking.. but still no good!!Jacked wrote:if you think its low voltage hook up a temp wire positive from the battery to the coil. If its starts its your ignition circut. If not go looking at other issues like distributer out etc etc.
F&R ARB air lockers, lux diffs, 4 link coil rear, drop shackles, inboarded ranchos, stage 4 reduction gears, 35" silverstones, 9500 winch, RUF, 1.6 EFI, swimming goggles
if the distributer is aligned correctly.
put a test light on the negitive of the coil. It should flash as you crank the engine. could be a buggered ignition module.
are you using a ballast resistor when your not supposed to be?? sounds like its doing the opposite of a ballast resistor. you may have made an error in your wireing and swaped the crank ignition with the run ignition circuts.
i dont kno the in's and outs of sierra and vitara ignition systems but thats would i would be working on.
put a test light on the negitive of the coil. It should flash as you crank the engine. could be a buggered ignition module.
are you using a ballast resistor when your not supposed to be?? sounds like its doing the opposite of a ballast resistor. you may have made an error in your wireing and swaped the crank ignition with the run ignition circuts.
i dont kno the in's and outs of sierra and vitara ignition systems but thats would i would be working on.
Just letting everyone know (especially for when future people use the search function!!) that she is finally going!!! Turns out it was the coil!! I didnt expect that, cause it was pushing out a spark, but just not enough!! Plus, i thought worst case scenario (as i hadnt had it going since the conversion). But she goes now, and im heading out this weekend playing! Thanks HEAPS to everyone that helped
F&R ARB air lockers, lux diffs, 4 link coil rear, drop shackles, inboarded ranchos, stage 4 reduction gears, 35" silverstones, 9500 winch, RUF, 1.6 EFI, swimming goggles
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