Basically I am after thoughts & ideas on running a second temp gauge besides the factory one.
Have people who have done this found much of a difference in temp readings between the factory gauge & the aftermarket one.
Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
Second temp gauge in 80 series
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
The factory 80s temp gauge has a dead spot between 70 and 110deg C.
Having fitted an aftermarket gauge recently and have it overheat sitting in some traffic recently, the alarm on the aftermarket temp gauge went off at a pre set 100deg C and the factory gauge didn't move until 110deg C.
If you want any kind of cooling system reliablity, do not rely on the factory gauge - THEY ARE CRAP
Having fitted an aftermarket gauge recently and have it overheat sitting in some traffic recently, the alarm on the aftermarket temp gauge went off at a pre set 100deg C and the factory gauge didn't move until 110deg C.
If you want any kind of cooling system reliablity, do not rely on the factory gauge - THEY ARE CRAP
IF IT MOVES, SHOOT IT
IF IT DOESNT, CUT IT DOWN
IF ITS GREEN, PISS ON IT
IF IT DOESNT, CUT IT DOWN
IF ITS GREEN, PISS ON IT
You could do the guage mods as suggested by me3@neuralfibre.com or as found on the 1h8mud forum.
The hardest a part of the mod is getting the dash apart IMHO, but you have to know your way around a soldering iron.
The hardest a part of the mod is getting the dash apart IMHO, but you have to know your way around a soldering iron.
Cheers,
Dan.
[i]1996 HDJ80R[/i]
Dan.
[i]1996 HDJ80R[/i]
It wouldn't be hard depending on the 80 engine, this I don't know. If it has an alloy waterbridge or something where the original sender is; if there's room just drill and tap a new thread for a new sender.shorty_f0rty wrote:is there any other stock locations from which to run a 2nd sender from apart from butchering a radiator hose?
Just make sure you take the section off first so you don't get alloy chips floating around the guts of the engine. Or a powerful vacuum over the hole may remove the bits.
Personally I just did without the stock gauge and used the stock location, I can live with one dead small gauge on the dash. The drivers the only one that can really see it in a 4Runner. Failing that, mount the new gauge in front of the stock one.
Lovin the FZJ105-T, bling by Ryano
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest