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Transfer Case Output / Vibration Hunting
Moderator: -Scott-
Transfer Case Output / Vibration Hunting
I have had the vibration diagnosed with a stethoscope to the transfer case output and or CV joint. There is a bit of movement there and the mechanic reckons it is coming from there.
Now, has anyone had one of these rebuilt? Mistubishi only sell the output housing complete and $738 + GST.
We reckon we could machine a new bush for alot less than that, just wondering if anyone has done it and how successful was it?
Now, has anyone had one of these rebuilt? Mistubishi only sell the output housing complete and $738 + GST.
We reckon we could machine a new bush for alot less than that, just wondering if anyone has done it and how successful was it?
Last edited by NJV6 on Sun May 03, 2009 7:57 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1994 NJ SWB, 3.5, 5 speed manual, 33's, XD9000, 4.9 diffs, Front & Rear ARB's, Safari Snorkel
2008-2009-2010-2011 Pavlova in the shed.
2008-2009-2010-2011 Pavlova in the shed.
Thanks Gabe, I don't need the vehicle for a couple of weeks so we may try and fit a new bush. Good to hear it fixed your vibration as I sure hope it fixes mine.
The 3.5 transfer case output is quite a bit bigger so I guess that may be why it is dearer. I am going to price a 3.0 one out of interest to see if there is any difference.
Cheers Glen
The 3.5 transfer case output is quite a bit bigger so I guess that may be why it is dearer. I am going to price a 3.0 one out of interest to see if there is any difference.
Cheers Glen
1994 NJ SWB, 3.5, 5 speed manual, 33's, XD9000, 4.9 diffs, Front & Rear ARB's, Safari Snorkel
2008-2009-2010-2011 Pavlova in the shed.
2008-2009-2010-2011 Pavlova in the shed.
If the bush is flogged out you should be able to machine another one out of a suitable and more durable material and press fit it into your existing extension housing. The bush has grooves to allow oil flow to the double lip seal as well.
A few of the Yanks have had this done by local tranny shops over there rather than paying for a new extension housing just to get a new bush.
This is has been found to be a reasonably common cause for vibrations due to the design.
A few of the Yanks have had this done by local tranny shops over there rather than paying for a new extension housing just to get a new bush.
This is has been found to be a reasonably common cause for vibrations due to the design.
I just luv my "clacker Jabber"
I use 660 bronze to machine new the bushing from. The few I have made have lasted longer than the original output bush.
Actually I have not replaced any that I have made in the past 30 years.
Actually I have not replaced any that I have made in the past 30 years.
Cheers, Charlie
If It ain't broke, Modify it!
87 Montero turbo Converted back in 1989
95 Montero SR 3.8 DOHC First one?
Will a 94 Macrocab on an SR chassis with a 6 speed be next?
ffmsd.com
If It ain't broke, Modify it!
87 Montero turbo Converted back in 1989
95 Montero SR 3.8 DOHC First one?
Will a 94 Macrocab on an SR chassis with a 6 speed be next?
ffmsd.com
I got a new bush made up out of brass.
Still vibrating!! ARGH!!! Not Happy.
At least the output fitting is tight. Might have to try putting the driveshaft CV joint apart - anyway had one of them apart?
Still vibrating!! ARGH!!! Not Happy.
At least the output fitting is tight. Might have to try putting the driveshaft CV joint apart - anyway had one of them apart?
1994 NJ SWB, 3.5, 5 speed manual, 33's, XD9000, 4.9 diffs, Front & Rear ARB's, Safari Snorkel
2008-2009-2010-2011 Pavlova in the shed.
2008-2009-2010-2011 Pavlova in the shed.
Frank, do you know of any issues with the CV driveshaft joint?
The Vehicle has a new bush and the output is nice and firm. Slides in and out nicely still.
I am runnig out of options as it has a new output bush.
I have rolled the old original housing from behind the shed (for those that don't know I changed housings when I put in the factory locker as housings for ABS equipped ones are slightly different) in case by some reason mine was bent and diff head (original 4.636 ratio) under it to see if it made any difference. I also put the original factory springs back in to see if it was the driveshaft angle.
This did seem to help to the point where i could accept it but the vibration does seem worse depending on my mood!
I have free wheeling hubs on the front so no front driveline is turning.
With the transfer case in Neutral, take the engine revs to 2500 in 5th where it is worse and its perfectly smooth (admittedly no load)
The tryes have been balanced a couple of times. BFG Mud terrains
Still does it when slipping it out of gear and switching engine off at 80 - 100km\h but possibly not as noticeable, most noticeable just holding the speed, the vehicle has alwasy had a small minor vibration under hard acceleration.
Does it in 4H as well.
I am down to CV joint or transfer case. There is obviously something inherintly not right with the transfer case for there to be such a big weight handing of the tail housing.
The Vehicle has a new bush and the output is nice and firm. Slides in and out nicely still.
I am runnig out of options as it has a new output bush.
I have rolled the old original housing from behind the shed (for those that don't know I changed housings when I put in the factory locker as housings for ABS equipped ones are slightly different) in case by some reason mine was bent and diff head (original 4.636 ratio) under it to see if it made any difference. I also put the original factory springs back in to see if it was the driveshaft angle.
This did seem to help to the point where i could accept it but the vibration does seem worse depending on my mood!
I have free wheeling hubs on the front so no front driveline is turning.
With the transfer case in Neutral, take the engine revs to 2500 in 5th where it is worse and its perfectly smooth (admittedly no load)
The tryes have been balanced a couple of times. BFG Mud terrains
Still does it when slipping it out of gear and switching engine off at 80 - 100km\h but possibly not as noticeable, most noticeable just holding the speed, the vehicle has alwasy had a small minor vibration under hard acceleration.
Does it in 4H as well.
I am down to CV joint or transfer case. There is obviously something inherintly not right with the transfer case for there to be such a big weight handing of the tail housing.
Last edited by NJV6 on Sat May 02, 2009 3:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1994 NJ SWB, 3.5, 5 speed manual, 33's, XD9000, 4.9 diffs, Front & Rear ARB's, Safari Snorkel
2008-2009-2010-2011 Pavlova in the shed.
2008-2009-2010-2011 Pavlova in the shed.
Tell me more about this input shaft - is that between the gearbox and transfer case? Why were you looking in there? Mine is a 5 speed 3.5.donald wrote:try rotating the tailshaft in different spots conecting to the diff,did this on mine ,nl 3.5 ,fixed the problem,mine had a bit of play were the input shaft went into the tranfer case to.
1994 NJ SWB, 3.5, 5 speed manual, 33's, XD9000, 4.9 diffs, Front & Rear ARB's, Safari Snorkel
2008-2009-2010-2011 Pavlova in the shed.
2008-2009-2010-2011 Pavlova in the shed.
input shaft is the end that goes into the tranfer case, that is conected to the tailshaft. what i did was take the tailshaft of ,mark the diff and the tailshaft the position it is in [make sure the rear of the car is lifted so you dont loose oil out of the tranfer case]check uni joints for play or nitching,give a good greese and change positions were it is bolted to the diff, noticed it vibrated more and less in different positions ,joined to the diff ,read this on another post worked for me,mine is a nl 3.5 five speed
Yeah it's a strange one alright.
Most of the time I hear of this problem it usually turns out to be the extension housing bush.
It's possible that the vibrations stuffed the CV or the rear uni ?
I'd certainly try and rotate the tailshaft in different positions as suggested - it's free.
I don't know much about the tailshaft CV's except that they look like a sealed unit (NM/NP's have these as well).
I'd check the CV and uni for excessive play as well.
Most of the time I hear of this problem it usually turns out to be the extension housing bush.
It's possible that the vibrations stuffed the CV or the rear uni ?
I'd certainly try and rotate the tailshaft in different positions as suggested - it's free.
I don't know much about the tailshaft CV's except that they look like a sealed unit (NM/NP's have these as well).
I'd check the CV and uni for excessive play as well.
I just luv my "clacker Jabber"
Today I put the rear diff housing back in that I have been using (4.9) and the aftermarket springs which give me about 40mm lift.
I put the lift springs in the original housing and that made no difference.
The CV does look like a sealed unit.
The 4.6 original diff that matches the tailshaft has a sized spigot where the driveshaft goes on and needs knocked out with a hammer once the driveshaft bolts are out it is that good a fit. The 4.9 diff does not have this so the aligning is only done with the 4 bolt holes. (which are pretty tight)
The vibration is definately worse with this 4.9 diff, no question. But it is there with the original one so that means I am now more confused.
I put the lift springs in the original housing and that made no difference.
The CV does look like a sealed unit.
The 4.6 original diff that matches the tailshaft has a sized spigot where the driveshaft goes on and needs knocked out with a hammer once the driveshaft bolts are out it is that good a fit. The 4.9 diff does not have this so the aligning is only done with the 4 bolt holes. (which are pretty tight)
The vibration is definately worse with this 4.9 diff, no question. But it is there with the original one so that means I am now more confused.
1994 NJ SWB, 3.5, 5 speed manual, 33's, XD9000, 4.9 diffs, Front & Rear ARB's, Safari Snorkel
2008-2009-2010-2011 Pavlova in the shed.
2008-2009-2010-2011 Pavlova in the shed.
Yea thats what I thought and worked out - donald must just drive down hill all the timehudson44 wrote:Thats actually the output shaft (of the transfercase) Unless of course the diff drives the engine!donald wrote:input shaft is the end that goes into the tranfer case, that is conected to the tailshaft.
Thanks for your help, I'll try swapping driveshaft positions later in the week.
1994 NJ SWB, 3.5, 5 speed manual, 33's, XD9000, 4.9 diffs, Front & Rear ARB's, Safari Snorkel
2008-2009-2010-2011 Pavlova in the shed.
2008-2009-2010-2011 Pavlova in the shed.
I though i might dig up this thread as i had a win today with a vibration i have had for some time. Ever since i put the Patrol springs in i have had a slight harmonic vibration in the car coming from the rear. I have replaced the gearbox ext housing and the uni's in the rear tailshaft. The vibration did improve but was still there. I put another set of GQ springs in the other day giving about another 1.5" of lift. The vibration was worse and getting very annoying. I made up an alloy tailshaft spacer, (have a template if anyone wants a copy) which improved it slightly but it was still there. However when i was under the car i just happened to look up and notice that the driveshaft was at an angle compared to the trans tunnel. So what i have done is used a standard GQ rear Panhard rod and re-bushed it to make it fit...................... What do you know, Vibration GONE
So NJ, if you have a fair bit of lift in the rear, and are still running a standard Panhard, i suggest you check the tailshaft angle and look at putting a standard or adjustable GQ Patrol Panhard rod in.
So NJ, if you have a fair bit of lift in the rear, and are still running a standard Panhard, i suggest you check the tailshaft angle and look at putting a standard or adjustable GQ Patrol Panhard rod in.
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