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TD42 Nissan Rebuild for a turbo. 200RWKW
Gudday smash250
have built the same project engine as you with the GT3071 garret running 25 - 27 PSI of boost.
The engine was a TD 42 with the 30mm gudgeon pins, oil squirter's for piston cooling and larger crank boss that has larger PCD for flywheel bolt up.
This is a pretty straight forward way of setting the good and not so good engines apart.
I used the essentially standard internals but with some set up changes to handle the higher boost. The liners were set in the block with a 3 thou over lay to get better seal with the head gasket. I used decent quality Japanese made pistons and rings, same with the bearings and factory nissan head gasket.
There are cheap td 42 pistons out there- not recommended.
The head was ported with standard nissan valves and quality race springs.
I balanced and crack test the engined for piece of mind then with a cut down flywheel together she went.
If you are ceramic coating the piston crowns and combustion chambers use a quality product as i ran into drama using a less expensive one.
The waste gate is a 38mm external turbo smart unit on 316SS extractors to 3" SS exhaust.
Injection pump is a Motor techs kitted with 12mm plungers and aneroid set at 15 psi for the second lot of fuel.
I used a 650hp PWR water air cooler and doubled up[ the radiators/fans for the cooling of the unit.
That with a double flow PWR radiator from a off roader and that's about it.
Its a engine configuration that works for me but some guys may want the earlier spool of a smaller turbo thats personal choice, i like the power at 2k upward to 4.5k.
When the engine tows my 3 ton boat the fuel needed to be de-tuned a bit as EGT's get high when towing but she still flies!
Have had it in nearly a year now and have had no trouble and its definitely the fastest diesel around and a landcruiser eater!
Good luck
have built the same project engine as you with the GT3071 garret running 25 - 27 PSI of boost.
The engine was a TD 42 with the 30mm gudgeon pins, oil squirter's for piston cooling and larger crank boss that has larger PCD for flywheel bolt up.
This is a pretty straight forward way of setting the good and not so good engines apart.
I used the essentially standard internals but with some set up changes to handle the higher boost. The liners were set in the block with a 3 thou over lay to get better seal with the head gasket. I used decent quality Japanese made pistons and rings, same with the bearings and factory nissan head gasket.
There are cheap td 42 pistons out there- not recommended.
The head was ported with standard nissan valves and quality race springs.
I balanced and crack test the engined for piece of mind then with a cut down flywheel together she went.
If you are ceramic coating the piston crowns and combustion chambers use a quality product as i ran into drama using a less expensive one.
The waste gate is a 38mm external turbo smart unit on 316SS extractors to 3" SS exhaust.
Injection pump is a Motor techs kitted with 12mm plungers and aneroid set at 15 psi for the second lot of fuel.
I used a 650hp PWR water air cooler and doubled up[ the radiators/fans for the cooling of the unit.
That with a double flow PWR radiator from a off roader and that's about it.
Its a engine configuration that works for me but some guys may want the earlier spool of a smaller turbo thats personal choice, i like the power at 2k upward to 4.5k.
When the engine tows my 3 ton boat the fuel needed to be de-tuned a bit as EGT's get high when towing but she still flies!
Have had it in nearly a year now and have had no trouble and its definitely the fastest diesel around and a landcruiser eater!
Good luck
Cheers for ur info Garth.
I have replaced the selves with semi finished ones and will be sending the pistons and manifold and turbo (exhaust side) off to get jethot coated. has then once i get it all back the pistons are getting mic'ed up and going to bore and hone block to suite. i have herd of people leaving extra clearance when boring for a turbo engine, dose anyone have any info on this? Also has anyone used the JetHot coatings and what did you think?
I have replaced the selves with semi finished ones and will be sending the pistons and manifold and turbo (exhaust side) off to get jethot coated. has then once i get it all back the pistons are getting mic'ed up and going to bore and hone block to suite. i have herd of people leaving extra clearance when boring for a turbo engine, dose anyone have any info on this? Also has anyone used the JetHot coatings and what did you think?
gudday smash.
Extra clearance where? do you mean lowering compression? with the td42 you don't need to change any bore/piston clearances that I know of.
As for jet hot coatings, the idea is to keep the heat out of the head and pistons and in the combustion chamber (you will need to send head away also) so as long as it does that and doesn't crack like a cheaper one i used did the first time you'll be sweet.
I didn't bother ceramic coating the ex manifold or turbo but if you have the cash it cant hurt. Just the pistons and head cost a fortune!
Are you going to top or bottom mount the GT3071? would be interested to see the extractor/cooler set-up as i went bottom mount with extractors but wouldn't do it again.
good luck
Extra clearance where? do you mean lowering compression? with the td42 you don't need to change any bore/piston clearances that I know of.
As for jet hot coatings, the idea is to keep the heat out of the head and pistons and in the combustion chamber (you will need to send head away also) so as long as it does that and doesn't crack like a cheaper one i used did the first time you'll be sweet.
I didn't bother ceramic coating the ex manifold or turbo but if you have the cash it cant hurt. Just the pistons and head cost a fortune!
Are you going to top or bottom mount the GT3071? would be interested to see the extractor/cooler set-up as i went bottom mount with extractors but wouldn't do it again.
good luck
gudday steve.
The set i used were 30mm gudgeon pin 'Ricon' (spelling?) Japanese made ones. they only come in set's of 4 for the td27 trucks so ended up with 2 spare.
They were available here from Truck and Bus Ltd or BNT.
What have ya done to the inlet? I chopped and welded mine to tale 3" intake pipe work from cooler by cutting out the return exhaust port and adding it to intake port for larger volume.
good luck with project
The set i used were 30mm gudgeon pin 'Ricon' (spelling?) Japanese made ones. they only come in set's of 4 for the td27 trucks so ended up with 2 spare.
They were available here from Truck and Bus Ltd or BNT.
What have ya done to the inlet? I chopped and welded mine to tale 3" intake pipe work from cooler by cutting out the return exhaust port and adding it to intake port for larger volume.
good luck with project
I herd of people giving extra clearance between the piston and bore, ie under pressure and extreme heat the pistons/rings expand and can become seized or start seizing.(Just what i herd) i think i am going to just use the factory clearances though. I am going to be using a top mount, i fabbed up the dump to suite yesterday, what a mission there's not much room between the back of turbo and firewall. Also because i do not have the engine all i have to go off is my Gq ute for dimensions, although im pretty sure the gq and gu will be almost identical. Im also worried about the turbo hitting the front shock inner guard, however if this happens i will just cut it out and weld some plate in to make it clear, but will not know for a few more week until i get all my engine bits back and start putting it all back together.
Go with the factory clearances for turbo spec motor, ie GUTD42T if you have the heavy duty turbo pistons to go with it. The idear of giving extra clearance is for motors without oil squirters under the pistons to allow for more expansion of the pistons. Personally I would just build the motor to turbo spec, I cann't remember what year model you have?
haven't cut it yet but will be cutting the top rocker side and bottum opposite corner and removing the top all together. Slitting a peice of 4 or 5 inch pipe at the angle to suit and purge welding it on with a 3 inch inlet snout to accomodate the front mount cooler piping.
Been real busy so I'm just trying to sorce all parts for the setup and do it in 1 hit. Doin the girls car to with a GU TD42T pump and GT2871R. Should be sufficient for her.
Thanks for the piston info.
Been real busy so I'm just trying to sorce all parts for the setup and do it in 1 hit. Doin the girls car to with a GU TD42T pump and GT2871R. Should be sufficient for her.
Thanks for the piston info.
Does anyone know the size of the crank nut on the heavy duty GQ silver top motor.
Is the 98GQ modle ute motor a GU or GQ motor. I know it has the vacum pump on the right side separate from the alternator and I messured the crank nut at 42mm approx.
How boost and fuel are people running in that motor?
Is the 98GQ modle ute motor a GU or GQ motor. I know it has the vacum pump on the right side separate from the alternator and I messured the crank nut at 42mm approx.
How boost and fuel are people running in that motor?
mines a 97, is a black top, but whether its the weaker or stronger motor i dont know.300WinMag wrote:Does anyone know the size of the crank nut on the heavy duty GQ silver top motor.
Is the 98GQ modle ute motor a GU or GQ motor. I know it has the vacum pump on the right side separate from the alternator and I messured the crank nut at 42mm approx.
How boost and fuel are people running in that motor?
run 13 PSI, and increased pump and LPG injection, seeing 500* or so EGTS non-intercooled and havnt had an issue.
more fuel and an intercooler are in the pipeline.
97 GQ patrol coilcab. TD42, safari turbo kit with fiddled turbo, D-GAS kit. dyno results to come...
4inch lift, king springs, efs and procomp shocks
315/70R16 cooper ST's
found fuel economy...
4inch lift, king springs, efs and procomp shocks
315/70R16 cooper ST's
found fuel economy...
I have spoken to mark at JPC and he said my donk being an early silver top (92 model) that 160 to 180rwkw is fine untuched. Im chasing 160rwkw give or take 10 and I have just over 300k on the clock and he sad no prob, that he did one a while back with 400k on it untuched and it spun up 160rwkw with 35" treads.
96 black top was the weakest of the weak, changed bore webbing etc.
Saying that, I'm - well I was running 21-23psi thru this engine, dyno @ 155kw @ 3600rpm at the treads on united's dyno back in late 06 (they said I wouldn't get over 120kw, ha ha). The truck has been getting a full chassis rebuild, so I havn't driven it for awhile. I still need to increase fuel as I'm only getting 450C on the pyro back then..
I'm not sure how long it will last once I start to push 600C, but I will find out soon...
Daniels
Saying that, I'm - well I was running 21-23psi thru this engine, dyno @ 155kw @ 3600rpm at the treads on united's dyno back in late 06 (they said I wouldn't get over 120kw, ha ha). The truck has been getting a full chassis rebuild, so I havn't driven it for awhile. I still need to increase fuel as I'm only getting 450C on the pyro back then..
I'm not sure how long it will last once I start to push 600C, but I will find out soon...
Daniels
V8s are nice, but you cant beat the sound of a turbo working the magic on a juiced up diesel.
Air cleaner as the factory ones are to small, bb turbo custom made in house, injector pump, injectors, intercooler, 3" exhaust and custom coolant rail taped into the head to help cool the precups highly recomended. The one I went in had 160rwkw just over 2000rpm end held it to over 4000rpm tha was on 36" simex et2s so you can probably ad another 10 to 20kw for 32 or 33" tyres. I LOVED IT. As soon as I get the cash I will be geting the pump, turbo and coolant rail as I have the rest.
High 20s, 12mm rotor head, thay are the same size nozzle but heavier spring not just shimed up. the injector pump is not just a 12mm pump with a boost compensator he spent about 6 months devaloping it, and and his turbos are made to suit what power you want he told me he has about 14 different combos and thats how he gets such good low down and then pull through to over 5000rpm power depending.
The 1 his talking about with 160 is mine running 25psi on 35 creapy's and 4.11 ratio and 300000 on it was pretty happy but it's got alot of money spent on the turbo,injectors,pump ect.... But stock internalls and I don't drives
it easy either
rebuilding it now tho with the works and aiming for 220rwkw
plus
it easy either
rebuilding it now tho with the works and aiming for 220rwkw
plus
MIGHTY PISTON POWER.
hey guys im doing a diesel conversion in my shorty soon and the motor i have has 380 000 on it, i am planning on running a dts kit and around 15 psi. do yous reckon i should freshen the motor up before boltin the turbo on? i was leaning towards a new set of rings and bearings but that also depends on what we find when it comes apart.
cheers
waandy
cheers
waandy
85 hi top drover, 31s, 2 inch exended shackles 2 inch bl.
88 tb42 swb mav,35 claws, 4 inch lift
88 tb42 swb mav,35 claws, 4 inch lift
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