How do long range tanks work?

[vk2icj]

Hello all

I have a recently purchased 60 series that at some point in it's previous life had a long range tank in it. Ok well it's still there. It also has the main tank still in place as well. The fellow who owned the truck before me died and his wife's brother is who I purchased the truck from. At anyrate acording to him it hasn't worked since he got it several years ago. I'd kinda like to get it working again.

#1 I imagine that after sitting (empty I think) these years that even though it looks good outside it should be removed and cleaned. how to clean? where?

#2 I'm only familiar with the dual tank systems that have a switch in the cab to flick over from one tank to the other. I have figured out all the switches save one in the cab. That switch is is just a push button and the wires are cut off under the bonnet. So There doesn't appear to be a switch to change tanks. Is there some other type of dual tank system out there? Any Ideas?

Thanks in advance for any ideas. It looks like a long ranger type of build. Very well made and there is a brace bolted between the chassis that it is mounted to. Doesn't look like a backyard job but I haven't found any markers on the tank either.

Chris

[dumbdunce]

there should be a solenoid valve type arrangement between the two tanks which switches the supply and return lines from the main to the sub tank. typically, supplying ignition voltage to the solenoid should activate the second tank. should be able to find the solenoid underneath somewhere and re-connect the wiring. if the valve doesn't activate (should click) when voltage is applied, it might need a clean up and/or replacement.

if it's been done right, the switch for the 2nd tank should also
(a) ignite a dashboard light/LED to indicate the 2nd tank is in use
(b) switch the fuel gauge from the main tank to the 2nd tank.

as for flushing, fuel tanks should be internally coated and should not have deteriorated much, you could just pump say 20 - 30 litres of fuel into in and drive around for a week or so (on the MAIN tank), let the fuel slosh around in there, then drain the tank form the bung and drop any and all grot with the fuel. the fuel filter should handle anything that left, carry a spare fuel filter if you're not sure all the gunk is gone.

good luck!

Brian

[NQCalais]

I've just bought a 2nd hand tank out of a 60 Series as well and mine is a "gravity fed" type, where the 2nd tank is fitted and the deivery hose from the main tank in fed into the 2nd tank and the delivery line to the pump is then plumbed to the 2nd tank. The fuel sender unit is removed from the main tank and fitted to the 2nd tank also. When the two tanks are filled, the main gravity feeds the 2nd tank and the gauge stays on full until the main tank empties and then the gauge works normally as the 2nd tank empties. Doesn't sound all that difficult, but because mine came from a petrol model and will be fitted to a diesel, the exhaust is on the wrong side and will have to be modified and there are extra breather/filler holes in the tank which will not neccessarily be used. Petrol models use the solenoid setup more commonly, where diesels can be run without. I'm not sure why that is, but of the ones I've seen/had that seems to be more common.

I've got a schematic here on the computer if you want me to email it - I've go no idea on how to attach it to this post.

[dumbdunce]

you learn something every day.

[Finley]

hi all i have a 60 series with a long ranger tank and im having the exact same problem as vk2icj! ive read on the long ranger website that these tanks are gravity fed, but that is as far as i have gotten.

NQCalais if you could also email me the schematic it would be much appriciated. my email is slimfin99@hotmail.com

thanks in advance/

[rumchaser]

Hi i have one to but not sure how it works either as I am in the process of restoring it andas it needs the clutch done the tanks coming out and maybe then I will be able to work the system out .
Also where is your fill point for your second tank mine is under the bonnet behind the battery

[80's_delirious]

AFAIK they can sometimes be set up as NQcalais said but with a manual valve on the auxillary tank. you can drive on the main tank until the gauage shows nearly empty, then manually open the valve on the auxillary tank so it drains into the main tank. this set up means you know you have the auxillary or reserve full until you crack the valve.

[Gearhead]

have a look near the bung to see if it has a tag with numbers stamped on it if it has obft of similar give me the code as it could be one of the tanks i make at work at i will send you through the instructions on how it works and goes together

cheers trevor

[hillbilliywheelchair]

if its got the polac valve working its due to an air block 60's are bad for it
best way to fix is to but a compleate return line in on the fuel not just a loop as starnded(you also dont have to worry about running out of fuel as then you can just crank untill fuel gets up as the air is pumped out unlike starndeded)
or just bleed the air out

[Finley]

hi all, thanks for the schematic NQCalais, ide post it up but i also dont know how to post pictures!

rumchaser, my fill point is right next to the fill point for the standard tank behind the fuel flap. its a fibreglass backing piece with 2 fill points on says main and the other says aux. and pressed into the fibreglass above the fillers it says out of town 4wd. hope that makes sense.

Gearhead, my tank has N6 88 332 stamped into the bottom of the tank right beside the bung.

cheers all.
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