5L (304) Holden V8 into FJ40 - General Info & Pics?

[TWISTY]

As some may have seen in my members thread, I have sold all my Ford EFI Crossflow conversion gear and bought off a mate a MWB Landcruiser that has a rebuilt Holden 5L V8, with Marks Adapter kit to mate it to the std. toyota 4spd Auto to a split xfer case.

As the truck is still up north, and I probably wont get it down here for a month or so, I cant suss out how easy the swap is going to be. Have spent the last few days trying to search the net for info and some pics, but cant find anything really detailed.

Am sure this conversion would have been done to plenty of 40 series trucks, so if anyone has some general info to post up, or even better some pics it would be much appreciated.

Some basic info I guess I'm looking for is
1. Will I need any firewall mods?
2. Will I need transmission tunnel mods to fit the 4spd auto?
3. Will driveline move forward or back from std. at all which will then need the driveshafts mofidied?
4. Am guessing the sump will be fine since its already in a mwb cruiser and running fine, but any sump issues I might run into??
5. What are the toyota 4spd autos like behind a V8? can you lock them into the one gear? and will it engine brake at all on steep decents?

Any other info would be great.

[DIRTY ROCK STAR]

1. Will I need any firewall mods? -shouldnt do. i pushed my 304 heaps far back to fit engine fan, 60 rad, thermos and coolers and it fits. i probly went too far back.
2. Will I need transmission tunnel mods to fit the 4spd auto? -you would need some mods as the sticks would line up differently id imagine but i cant help ya on specifics...
3. Will driveline move forward or back from std. at all which will then need the driveshafts mofidied?
4. Am guessing the sump will be fine since its already in a mwb cruiser and running fine, but any sump issues I might run into?? my 304 sump clears by heaps mate yeah. thats using an 80 front diff.


.

i dont think you will look back once its in. where you putting the ECU? glovebox??

[75 cruser]

not sure if they are the same truck but look the same

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic127032-0.php

ive noticed in my truck with down hill engine braking with the v8 its no where as good as the diesel was, the diesel would neally come to a compleate stop but where the v8 lacks that, but the horse power overrides that by a mile

with the auto, i would just looking at running the t700 as it just bolts up and then you loose the addapter, and thier are heaps stronger tranferecases on the market, with the added horse power just some thing to consider,

rob

[OUZIT]

Great to see you come around. I'm sure you won't look back either!!
Good move.

I believe the 4 speed to be tougher than the 5 speed. And we know about the split transfer too. yep stronger.

PS. know where there's a neat purple 40 for sale....he he

[NZBJ71]

I have a 304 in m y FJ40, and its a fantastic little unit.

Some things to consider. Mine has the cruiser 4 speed and split transfer in the stock location, due to the belhousing (and input shaft) length the fire wall has been chopped to fit the engine in and a bolt in fire wall installed, the consequence is that to get at the dizzy one really does need to unbolt part of the fire wall and pull it out, Also this mean no Heater allong with about a foot between the engine and radiator, so i needed to build a massive fan shroud.

my advice is if you can avoid it dont hack into the firewall, i got the vehicle with the conversion done so i have to live with it.

I believe Mark's do an adapter with the thicker flywheel to push the engine forward so no firewall chop, a diesel gear box also has a longer input shaft but this doesn't help with an auto.

There are adapters to fit the chev/holden autos to the split case transfer (Marks @$1100?). I have a TH400 with split case transfer sitting on the floor of my garage at the moment, i'd consider selling it but i suspect postage from NZ would kill the deal!

One final piece of advice, with the extra horse power (and if you stick some bigger tyre on) expect to install a tramp arm to stop the rear axle rotating, I went through 2 diff pinions in about a month before i get one installed

[TWISTY]

1. Will I need any firewall mods? -shouldnt do. i pushed my 304 heaps far back to fit engine fan, 60 rad, thermos and coolers and it fits. i probly went too far back.
2. Will I need transmission tunnel mods to fit the 4spd auto? -you would need some mods as the sticks would line up differently id imagine but i cant help ya on specifics...
3. Will driveline move forward or back from std. at all which will then need the driveshafts mofidied?
4. Am guessing the sump will be fine since its already in a mwb cruiser and running fine, but any sump issues I might run into?? my 304 sump clears by heaps mate yeah. thats using an 80 front diff.

i dont think you will look back once its in. where you putting the ECU? glovebox??

Cheers DRS, and yeah, was thinking just in the glovebox, or somewhere high up behind the dash.

not sure if they are the same truck but look the same

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic127032-0.php

ive noticed in my truck with down hill engine braking with the v8 its no where as good as the diesel was, the diesel would neally come to a compleate stop but where the v8 lacks that, but the horse power overrides that by a mile

with the auto, i would just looking at running the t700 as it just bolts up and then you loose the addapter, and thier are heaps stronger tranferecases on the market, with the added horse power just some thing to consider,

rob

Thanks Rob, how'd i miss that one. Love that 45!

Trying to do this on a budget so need to stick to the auto/xfer/& adapters from the middy for now.

I have a 304 in m y FJ40, and its a fantastic little unit.

Some things to consider. Mine has the cruiser 4 speed and split transfer in the stock location, due to the belhousing (and input shaft) length the fire wall has been chopped to fit the engine in and a bolt in fire wall installed, the consequence is that to get at the dizzy one really does need to unbolt part of the fire wall and pull it out, Also this mean no Heater allong with about a foot between the engine and radiator, so i needed to build a massive fan shroud.

my advice is if you can avoid it dont hack into the firewall, i got the vehicle with the conversion done so i have to live with it.

I believe Mark's do an adapter with the thicker flywheel to push the engine forward so no firewall chop, a diesel gear box also has a longer input shaft but this doesn't help with an auto.

There are adapters to fit the chev/holden autos to the split case transfer (Marks @$1100?). I have a TH400 with split case transfer sitting on the floor of my garage at the moment, i'd consider selling it but i suspect postage from NZ would kill the deal!

One final piece of advice, with the extra horse power (and if you stick some bigger tyre on) expect to install a tramp arm to stop the rear axle rotating, I went through 2 diff pinions in about a month before i get one installed

Thanks for the info...as said above, need to keep this swap as cheap as possible, so will stick with the toyota auto for now, but thanks for the offer.

Are you spua or spoa? Mine is still spua so didn't think I would need a track bar? but am happy to install one if its going to save diffs.

[Pauwolf]

The auto is a fair bit longer than the 4 or 5 speed, so you should be able to move the motor forward enough to clear the firewall.

I had a factory auto in stock location, with an 80 series bellhousing adaptor, (shortest one) and just cleared the firewall in my 60 series

I think from memory the tailshafts are 4 inchs different in length from auto to manual

hope this helps
Paul

[v8zuki]

dont forget about the correct angle of the motor
the single biggest problem with a 5l conversion is that people put it in to suit the front uni angle and forget the motor
the front of the motor has to sit up so you dont get airlocks in the heads and overheating probs also the auto has to be at the same angle obviously so it doesnt get air locks
easiest way with carby motors was a level on the carb base
efi is a little tricky as you cant use any thingto sit the level on
hope i am as clear as mud on this
basicly the front has to be up more than the six that was in there

[NZBJ71]

Are you spua or spoa? Mine is still spua so didn't think I would need a track bar? but am happy to install one if its going to save diffs.

I am still SUA but was running 285/75-16 mongrels (about 34"). It may depend on how light your spring pack is also

[pauly990]

i have an '82 fj40 with a 308 in it but is 4spd. can get photos if you like?

[softshorty77]

Im pretty sure you will have to get custom engine mounts, no modification needed to the firewall, mine fits in with about 30mm gap from rocker cover,

you will have to make some type of gearbox/ fly wheel cover, cos standard one fits turbo700, and will not fit against your 4 speed.

you will have to put a return line into your fuel cell if you have expansion for that, you may have to drill and tap a barb fitting in,

i didnt bother using cats or charcoal canister, depends on how legal u want it i guess.

you will have to get a custom header or modified header on passenger side to clear chassis rail, i have 3in body lift and still had to cut out some tub, nothing major. what out for your slave cylinder for the clutch as my exhaust kept cooking the seal inside and i was left with no clutch on the highway twice, i mad a new bracket up so its no as close, seems to have lasted more than 8 months now lol.

i'd go 3in single system, less pipes and revs harder. mine is twin but am happy with the noise:)

you need bell housing from marks as you know, i have 5speed 75seires so im not sure if they are the same as a 4speed.

ecu you should mount in the dash behind the to the left of the speedo cluster, make sure your window seal is not leaking! mine is and have gone though 2 cd players :( but its tucked in right at the back so its never been damaged.

you may want to move radiator as far close to the front as possible so you can fit engine fan, i have one 16in thermo and custom shroud but get a lil warm in summer on the beach - 115c so im thinking of changing to engine fan they seem to draw way more air than thermos, plus thermos arent that reliable when wet.

you should have enough gap for your front diff, i have standard bump stops and the sump still has prob 100mm clearance.

good luck! p.s make sure you dont dint your body with those sexy rear flares, you may wanna brace em from the inside!

[softshorty77]

dont forget about the correct angle of the motor
the single biggest problem with a 5l conversion is that people put it in to suit the front uni angle and forget the motor
the front of the motor has to sit up so you dont get airlocks in the heads and overheating probs also the auto has to be at the same angle obviously so it doesnt get air locks
easiest way with carby motors was a level on the carb base
efi is a little tricky as you cant use any thingto sit the level on
hope i am as clear as mud on this
basicly the front has to be up more than the six that was in there

yes i hear ya! mine sits on an up angle too

[Struth]

dont forget about the correct angle of the motor
the single biggest problem with a 5l conversion is that people put it in to suit the front uni angle and forget the motor
the front of the motor has to sit up so you dont get airlocks in the heads and overheating probs also the auto has to be at the same angle obviously so it doesnt get air locks
easiest way with carby motors was a level on the carb base
efi is a little tricky as you cant use any thingto sit the level on
hope i am as clear as mud on this
basicly the front has to be up more than the six that was in there

yes i hear ya! mine sits on an up angle too

How much of an angle are you talking, I will need to go and check mine now.

How much slant over the length of the heads?

Cheers

[croozy]

not real good pics but you get a bit of an idea.
This is from when I was running a carby.

You can see the difference between the base of the air cleaner & the rocker cover.

Now running injection.