Have yet to strip my axle and trial fit, so if what i have said so far is crap, let me know 
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GU c.v.s to G.Q housing
GU c.v.s to G.Q housing
As anybody done this successfully? the inner axle splines are the same, so was thinking of using GQ axle. The swivel hub area might be tight but could always diegrind Have yet to strip my axle and trial fit, so if what i have said so far is crap, let me know
Have yet to strip my axle and trial fit, so if what i have said so far is crap, let me know 
Posts: 3523
Joined: Sun May 18, 2003 8:42 pm
Joined: Sun May 18, 2003 8:42 pm
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cam wrote:cheers wendle, yeah g.u. bell is huuuge(had a look). so is anybody doing stronger c.v.'s for nissan's yet or are they only available for weak toyotas
Give Richard at 4x4 Engineering a call, he is the agent for CORE cv's and beadlocks etc, 07 3344 1181. Located at Acacia Ridge in Brisbane, but can send anywhere.
Built, not bought.
duncan wrote:Is anyone making uni joint axles for GQs like the ones you can get from the states for yota axles
about 12 months ago someone started drawing up a replacement knuckle for the GQ axle that would allow room for a dana 60 u-joint and stub shaft. I am not sure how far they got with it though?
No the GU CV won't go into the swivel hub as the whole GU CV is not only larger diameter (9-10mm) but larger in length as well so the whole unit ends up being about 10mm longer than a GQ CV/axle. I have tried to do this swap years ago when we got new work GU 
. Also the GU has 1 more spline on the axle that slips up inside the CV central star to give it extra strength (28 instead of 27).
I also made up some rings out of 4140 to put over the outside CV bell on a GQ and ground out the hub to clear, the cage still broke though and the joint dis assembled itself.
The only real way you may be able to get around this is to weld the whole GU swivel hubs into a GQ housing (after grinding the old ones out of the GQ housing - they look the same, and use the hubs and CV's etc to get it working.
I can't ever see a uni style joint being as strong as a CV (size for strength). CV's may break every now and then, but there is no way a uni of that diameter would be very strong. Dana 60 front joints are massive and also have massive swivel hubs to accomodate. A CV the diameter of the Dana 60 joint would be in a very big truck. Also a CV usually breaks because of the turning angle which runs the balls out into the weak part of the joint - this is a lot more angle than you could get out of a U joint. I think if you limited the steering angle on CV's to that of what you would get with a u joint you would hardly ever break one.
Pete
. Also the GU has 1 more spline on the axle that slips up inside the CV central star to give it extra strength (28 instead of 27).
I also made up some rings out of 4140 to put over the outside CV bell on a GQ and ground out the hub to clear, the cage still broke though and the joint dis assembled itself.
The only real way you may be able to get around this is to weld the whole GU swivel hubs into a GQ housing (after grinding the old ones out of the GQ housing - they look the same, and use the hubs and CV's etc to get it working.
I can't ever see a uni style joint being as strong as a CV (size for strength). CV's may break every now and then, but there is no way a uni of that diameter would be very strong. Dana 60 front joints are massive and also have massive swivel hubs to accomodate. A CV the diameter of the Dana 60 joint would be in a very big truck. Also a CV usually breaks because of the turning angle which runs the balls out into the weak part of the joint - this is a lot more angle than you could get out of a U joint. I think if you limited the steering angle on CV's to that of what you would get with a u joint you would hardly ever break one.
Pete
The GQ leaf knuckle i think are very similar - they bolt on to the housing using the same swivel pin bearings. They are definately interchangeable. I think the GQ leaf may have the steering arms in a slightly different position than the MQ or the rod ends may be the opposite way up compared to an MQ ie. on top instead of underneath. Easiest way is to climb under a truck in a carpark. Also GQ's had a larger wheel bearing outer race, but that is dependant on the stub axle... the stubs are also interchangeable between models too.
All in all, the MQ hubs will go on a GQ or visa versa. GU is the only one not common in size... i am pretty sure they have the same wheel bearing and swivel pin bearing type as a GQ though.
All in all, the MQ hubs will go on a GQ or visa versa. GU is the only one not common in size... i am pretty sure they have the same wheel bearing and swivel pin bearing type as a GQ though.
All in all, the MQ hubs will go on a GQ or visa versa. GU is the only one not common in size... i am pretty sure they have the same wheel bearing and swivel pin bearing type as a GQ though.
GU also seem to have the kingpin bearings at different angles when compared to the GQ the bell ends of the diff seem to be differnet
Wendle wrote:ozy1 wrote:GU also seem to have the kingpin bearings at different angles when compared to the GQ the bell ends of the diff seem to be differnet
yes, this is a very important improvement and took away a lot of the silly little handling quirks built into the GQ axle....
so what your saying, the GU diffs under a GQ will improve the handling? how much so and in what ways?
ozy1 wrote:Wendle wrote:ozy1 wrote:GU also seem to have the kingpin bearings at different angles when compared to the GQ the bell ends of the diff seem to be differnet
yes, this is a very important improvement and took away a lot of the silly little handling quirks built into the GQ axle....
so what your saying, the GU diffs under a GQ will improve the handling? how much so and in what ways?
the ackerman is closer to true, and the kingpin rake (in the camber plane) is much, much friendlier towards wide rims and tyres. a friend has gu gear under his gq and, compared to others, it corners like a race car...
the gu pitman arm taper is upside-down, so you can't use the gu drag-link, the gq drag-link is fine. the gu diff is roundabout 28mm wider, so half of that is the difference in length. you would be an incredible spastic if you were swapping in a gu axle for strength and keeping the stock steering links anyway.
brent and john at www.wizardperformance.com.au have both fitted GU axles to their GQ's and can make the bits you need.
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Taper on GU is different and tierods on GU are 20mm and GQ are 22mm. We taper ream the pitman arm on a GU box and the taper on the knuckle to a GQ tierod. As for the GU front, the turning circle is better, the width is better, the CV's are stronger. We have twist tested our GU strengthened CV's against Dana 60 uni's and they are stronger. We are doing a shyt load of conversions with exelent results. Our biggest seller is GU front diff with twin shocks and hydro bump stops.
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