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turbo timer
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
turbo timer
hey peoples.. what are everyones thoughts on turbo timers? Should you let the turbo cool down everytime before switching the eng off?? Just wondering if its worth investing in a turbo timer or not.. Thanks 

F&R ARB air lockers, lux diffs, 4 link coil rear, drop shackles, inboarded ranchos, stage 4 reduction gears, 35" silverstones, 9500 winch, RUF, 1.6 EFI, swimming goggles
Re: turbo timer
IMWO, not worth the bux.
I take it easy for the few 100mtrs before home, and if it isnt <200 by then, I get out, get me phone/wallet and stuff, and its done by then..
Same when going to shops, by the time you park, it usually drops 100 so your fairly safe.
Also some insurance companies dont allow them, or didnt when I called yrs back..
I take it easy for the few 100mtrs before home, and if it isnt <200 by then, I get out, get me phone/wallet and stuff, and its done by then..
Same when going to shops, by the time you park, it usually drops 100 so your fairly safe.
Also some insurance companies dont allow them, or didnt when I called yrs back..
Really depends on your motor, If its a deisel I wouldnt bother,
I have a tb42 turbo and I might be a tad overboard but I like to see the pyro down to about 400c before turning it off.
If I have been on the highway cruise is around 650c so 3 minutes on the timer will bring it down to 400c.
If I have been just around town its usually around 480 (depending on how I have been driving) so 1 minute is perfect.
Most times I just put on the steering lock, get my stuff together and its down to 400c but if Im late for work or impatient I simply flick it on a minute lock the door and bolt.
Cooling down the turbo is important how you do it isnt.
I have a tb42 turbo and I might be a tad overboard but I like to see the pyro down to about 400c before turning it off.
If I have been on the highway cruise is around 650c so 3 minutes on the timer will bring it down to 400c.
If I have been just around town its usually around 480 (depending on how I have been driving) so 1 minute is perfect.
Most times I just put on the steering lock, get my stuff together and its down to 400c but if Im late for work or impatient I simply flick it on a minute lock the door and bolt.
Cooling down the turbo is important how you do it isnt.

Yeah mate its watercooled,
Tuned by Joel at PGS here in Vic. He has seen temps nearly double that on hard worked Petrol Comp trucks, and as he says a lot of passenger cars catalytic convertors dont start working until 650 degrees as they are tuned from the factory to run at those temps.
Yes I was worried the temps were too high which is why I took it to him but he is the expert and assures me they are fine.
Petrol temps are way way higher than diesel temps as I was used too.
Tuned by Joel at PGS here in Vic. He has seen temps nearly double that on hard worked Petrol Comp trucks, and as he says a lot of passenger cars catalytic convertors dont start working until 650 degrees as they are tuned from the factory to run at those temps.
Yes I was worried the temps were too high which is why I took it to him but he is the expert and assures me they are fine.

Petrol temps are way way higher than diesel temps as I was used too.
I'm not sure exactly what you mean by that, I always thought that it was good to idle a diesel (or any engine) when cold to get the oil flowing, and as for when you stop driving, I have never been told that it is bad to idle my diesel engine... please correct me if i'm wrong. Sorry to lead you away from the topic at hand.KiwiBacon wrote:Idling is bad for diesels, best to minimise it.
My NG Pajero 2.5 TDI is fitted with a Turbo Timer, but who knows if I need it or not (in relation to the turbo temperature)?? I have mine set on 30 seconds most of the time, but another benefit that I can see from having a turbo timer on my car is that when I do long distance night driving with my high beams and 4x Lightforce spotties, it's good to put a bit of charge back into my battery before shutting it off (turbo timer is often set to 2 or 3 minutes or more). My Grandfather's Landcruiser HJ62 also has a turbo timer fitted (more than 20 years ago) with no issues ever.
1990 NG Paj TDI: 2.5 exhaust, 146l Longranger tank, snorkel, 2" suspension lift, 31" Bighorns.
1985 Holden Drover: 2" OME suspension & shocks, extractors, 2" exhaust, 235/75 MTR's
1985 Holden Drover: 2" OME suspension & shocks, extractors, 2" exhaust, 235/75 MTR's
dont know about your set up but on mine, the alt light comes on to say its not functioning once the turbo timer takes over, so chances are its not charging anything.Sammyboy wrote:I'm not sure exactly what you mean by that, I always thought that it was good to idle a diesel (or any engine) when cold to get the oil flowing, and as for when you stop driving, I have never been told that it is bad to idle my diesel engine... please correct me if i'm wrong. Sorry to lead you away from the topic at hand.KiwiBacon wrote:Idling is bad for diesels, best to minimise it.
My NG Pajero 2.5 TDI is fitted with a Turbo Timer, but who knows if I need it or not (in relation to the turbo temperature)?? I have mine set on 30 seconds most of the time, but another benefit that I can see from having a turbo timer on my car is that when I do long distance night driving with my high beams and 4x Lightforce spotties, it's good to put a bit of charge back into my battery before shutting it off (turbo timer is often set to 2 or 3 minutes or more). My Grandfather's Landcruiser HJ62 also has a turbo timer fitted (more than 20 years ago) with no issues ever.
*there's a rock, drive over it :) there's a bigger rock, drive over it :twisted: there's an even bigger rock, oops broke it :oops: Upgrade broken bit :bad-words:
Goto *
Goto *
I have turbo timer and EGT, so can monitor what is going on.
I have it set to 30 seconds, which in almost all cases is heaps of time to get the EGT below 200C. If i have cruised in taking it easy, I will simply hit the stop button.
Mine is a plug in boggard on a GQ, alternator continues working until engine shuts off.
As for idling.... for that amount of time, I don't think you are going to glaze your bores (well, not for the seconds that mine idles for, it idles more sitting at the lights!!). If you are worried, just give it a good bootful when you drive it again, stop the glazing
(I don't think mine will EVER glaze LOL)
I have it set to 30 seconds, which in almost all cases is heaps of time to get the EGT below 200C. If i have cruised in taking it easy, I will simply hit the stop button.
Mine is a plug in boggard on a GQ, alternator continues working until engine shuts off.
As for idling.... for that amount of time, I don't think you are going to glaze your bores (well, not for the seconds that mine idles for, it idles more sitting at the lights!!). If you are worried, just give it a good bootful when you drive it again, stop the glazing

Rum injected
TD42T shorty... got some bolt on and some custom stuff.
Read about it [url=http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18848]here![/url]
TD42T shorty... got some bolt on and some custom stuff.
Read about it [url=http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18848]here![/url]
He is correct in a way, but its not specifically idling that can glaze bores, its a constant RPM anywhere in the range that can cause glazing.Sammyboy wrote:I'm not sure exactly what you mean by that, I always thought that it was good to idle a diesel (or any engine) when cold to get the oil flowing, and as for when you stop driving, I have never been told that it is bad to idle my diesel engine... please correct me if i'm wrong. Sorry to lead you away from the topic at hand.KiwiBacon wrote:Idling is bad for diesels, best to minimise it.
My NG Pajero 2.5 TDI is fitted with a Turbo Timer, but who knows if I need it or not (in relation to the turbo temperature)?? I have mine set on 30 seconds most of the time, but another benefit that I can see from having a turbo timer on my car is that when I do long distance night driving with my high beams and 4x Lightforce spotties, it's good to put a bit of charge back into my battery before shutting it off (turbo timer is often set to 2 or 3 minutes or more). My Grandfather's Landcruiser HJ62 also has a turbo timer fitted (more than 20 years ago) with no issues ever.
Having youre truck sitting on a turbo timer wont do fark all as you have to have it running for a long long long time before glazing becomes an issue, as when you start it up the next morning and go to drive it, the piston will be moving at different speeds and loads.
Keeping youre injectors in good condition also helps prevent glazing.
Unless your engine has issues, oil pressure should be reached within seconds of startup. From there you need to get the engine to operating temp as soon as you can. Many diesels can't warm up when running at idle.Sammyboy wrote:I'm not sure exactly what you mean by that, I always thought that it was good to idle a diesel (or any engine) when cold to get the oil flowing, and as for when you stop driving, I have never been told that it is bad to idle my diesel engine... please correct me if i'm wrong. Sorry to lead you away from the topic at hand.KiwiBacon wrote:Idling is bad for diesels, best to minimise it.
At cold idle you're squirting diesel against cold surfaces where it can't burn cleanly. It soots up your oil and can glaze bores. Both are worth avoiding. The same thing happens on cool-down. Basically as soon as your engine reaches a safe exhaust temp, shut it down.
I have an auber pyro which is designed for commericial applications and does a heap of different functions.
Someone who has a bit of sparky knowledge should create a set up which makes the turbo timer redundant and keeps the engine running until it reachs a set temp say 200 C then automatically shuts it off.
then you have the best of both worlds, as most of the time it wont keep running (this way you can use your toyota handbrake - first gear) but if it is hot then it takes control and protects your donk.
Someone who has a bit of sparky knowledge should create a set up which makes the turbo timer redundant and keeps the engine running until it reachs a set temp say 200 C then automatically shuts it off.
then you have the best of both worlds, as most of the time it wont keep running (this way you can use your toyota handbrake - first gear) but if it is hot then it takes control and protects your donk.
*there's a rock, drive over it :) there's a bigger rock, drive over it :twisted: there's an even bigger rock, oops broke it :oops: Upgrade broken bit :bad-words:
Goto *
Goto *
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