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just about to get my longields from locktup and i see it says some clearance of the ball and inner may be required
have the ppl that have got them had any dramas or do they go in pretty easy
when putting radiator in the rear is it just as simple as getting long hoses and connecting them up or is there a need of a pump in the line somewhere cause of the fluid travel distance
1n106 coil'd, 39.5 iroks, locked, bobbed, tubbed, dovetaild, highsteer and heavy right(UNDER CONSTRUCTION)
Depends on how straight your housing is. When fitting dirty 30's to my old Lux I had to grind a little off the bottom flat in the housing but nothing to be worried about just make sure you clean up all the shavings and you will be right.
As said it all depends on the housing some need clearancing others dont, just make sure you get no binding to be on the safe side and you will be good to go a little grinding wont weaken the ball but will help the CV and ball itself.
A die grinder with a metal carbide bit is easiest to clearance the inner ball.
Most Ive seen don't require it though.
On the buggies we used to run we never had an inline pump as most time it never needed it. Your distance is a bit further so maybe look at fitting one.
I had to knock a few mm off the edges of the machined surface around the KP bearings - both upper and lower (early 75 axle)
Die grinder with metal carbide bit and lots of rags stuffed down the axle tube is the go. Be sure to clean and dry the housing thoroughly first - much easier to brush/blow out the grinding fragments.
dogbreath_48 wrote:
lots of rags stuffed down the axle tube is the go. Be sure to clean and dry the housing thoroughly first - much easier to brush/blow out the grinding fragments.
also, as with the inline pump for the radiator, i would look at fitting steel or stainless steel pipes insted of hose the whole way, would be a bit stronger, help some what with a little cooling, and not as week, to puncture or blow outs.
