105 series to be set up for the cape

[clownman]

i am planning to go on a trip to the cape mid next year and to the kimberly the year after that. I have a stock 105 series so i'll need to put a bit of money into it , ill post pics of the build as i think it wll take me a while to get it set up the way i want it.

first question is lift i am going 2" or 3" what do you guys think i should do ? i know with a 3" ill need 2 degree caster bushes and adjustable panhards and may also need to put extended brake lines in, just want to know from other experience

[crunk81us]

Depends.. I know someone who did the trip in a stocko 4 runner. don't see why a 105 would have any problems. I am planning a similar setup for my 105.. not sure about how high I want it. Probably just gonna put 2 inch spacers in and see how they go.

[clownman]

i want to do some pretty hard tracks up there so i definately need the lift i am leaning towards a good quality 2 inch lift cause i dont want any legal dramas and 2 is the max i can go cause i live in qld (that sux)

[crunk81us]

QLD here too. Just take into consideration your 2 inch will sag.. especially loaded up on hard tracks. If you are already thinking of 3 inch then you definately wont be happy with sagged 2 inch I would maybe put in 2 inch coils, measure it, load up your truck, measure it, and consider a spacer to correct the height.

Dunno just a thought?

[dabulg]

2" would be about all you need up here if you don't go crazy. Invest in good shocks and bring spare ones. Lots of corragations up there.

I took a hilux with 2" lift through the Laura - Maytown coach road and didn't bounce off much. That's probably the most difficult road I have done on the Cape so far.

Dan.

[ADAM 26]

my 105 has a 2 inch lift, its still way too low, gets the tow bar dragin on everything, as well as the front bar. iv already bent the side step. it was my first go at a local track thats really not hard at all.

iv had it a week (i bought the car with the lift alreay in it) and im already looking at getting a 4 inch lift kit!

[clownman]

looks like it will be the 3" with all the bits, just had a chat to my mechanic and he said would be better to do the 3 inch lift as it will sag and to get heavy duty as well

[me3@neuralfibre.com]

http://neuralfibre.com/paul/4wd/flexing ... andcruiser

You won't need spare shocks if you do it right.

Paul

[clownman]

that is some really good info cheers when i do mine ill get some numbers with the mechanic and ill also get him to read this article i think i will have to study it a bit , in reguards to the shocks i am not talking about breaking them i am just talking about them being worn out onced the trip is done and so will be replacing them as soon as i get back along with all the rubber bushes providing i havnt destroyed anything on the trip hopefully thats all ill have to fix ha ha , but with the cape you never know what youll do

[me3@neuralfibre.com]

that is some really good info cheers when i do mine ill get some numbers with the mechanic and ill also get him to read this article i think i will have to study it a bit , in reguards to the shocks i am not talking about breaking them i am just talking about them being worn out onced the trip is done and so will be replacing them as soon as i get back along with all the rubber bushes providing i havnt destroyed anything on the trip hopefully thats all ill have to fix ha ha , but with the cape you never know what youll do

You won't wear out Bilsteins or Koni's on one Cape trip.

Cofap - hmm - maybe, but I think you would be doing well.

Basically, they'll get hot, and if you run heavy and fast with high tyre pressures, they'll get real hot. THen they'll fade whilst too hot, and be fine when they cool down. I dont run "foam cell" shocks as they foam can break down if it gets too hot. Fade is no big deal, it just means you are working the shock too hard (weight and speed).

If you drop to 23psi ish (depending on size / weight / profile) and stay on / under 80km/hr when on the dirt - they'll last many years. I'm not talking quick blast, I mean hours of work.

If you want to do it at 150km/hr fully laden I suggest you look at some pretty serious racing shocks, with hydraulic bump stops, etc etc etc.

If you want to race Paris to Dakar then.....

The factory suspension setup on a 105 with diff springs / shocks is pretty good. I wouldn't be changing panhards etc without reason. Once you know what you want, then change it. The setup for a hard core crawler is not suited to a tourer. A tourer is not a good outback challenge car. The OEM parts very rarely break, it's always the modified kit that breaks. Taller is less stable.

Most aftermaket springs (Kings 2") are heavy duty and will do a loaded vehicle fine.
Extra HD type springs are more for full load + heavy accessories (wheel carriers, fuel tanks etc).

You are local - go see Jamie at GSA Wholesale Suspension - Springwood. See what they can offer you. You'll like what you see there (they run a solid rally team) and won't screw you.

Jump onto the LCOOL forum for heaps of 105 owners.

Paul

[Bush65]

I don't have anything to add to the above posts, but I know of 100 series sucking the fan into the radiator (and destroying the radiator) on water crossings up there. The blades flex more than 80 series by comparison.

I don't know if this applies to all 100's but you might want to look into it.

[Meangu]

Hay mate theres some sick landcruiser walker evans cheap in the tyres for sale section. would be grat on your car

[clownman]

\thanks heaps for the info guys ill stop in at slacks creek and have chat see what comes from that good info on the shock be definately looking into bilsteins, as far as the radiator ill be drilling a small hole in one of the blades and a small hole in the shroud and a good old zip tye will do the job for stopping the fan ill just snip it off when finished the creek crossing

as for spring rate i am getting a kaymar bar fitted with one spare and carrying a roof top tent with all the gear i need in the back plus 3 kids and the missus up front winch bat side protection and sliders also but i wanted to sort lift first ill take measurements and pics and post them as i go,

[dow50r]

older gent took his std petty gxl 105 up the tip and back no issues (except when water got into his motor
snorkel and 2 inch lift...keep it legal, the 2 inch lift will work well, springs like OME are rated at 2 inch with 200kg, and they sit 3 inches with no load...but the important thing is they r rated at 50mm for insurance purposes. They also do 400kg 2 inch lift rear springs that are closer to 4 inch lift empty
Andrew

[me3@neuralfibre.com]

I don't have anything to add to the above posts, but I know of 100 series sucking the fan into the radiator (and destroying the radiator) on water crossings up there. The blades flex more than 80 series by comparison.

I don't know if this applies to all 100's but you might want to look into it.

105's almost never do this.

If you

a) Take a $2 supercrap tarp and some elastic to put it on / off with (or a $150 michells bra - your call) - that will keep the water out.

b) Make sure your fan is not a Blue Dot (dot on front of blades - look hard - 5c peice sized, but on the flat - hard to see from behind)

c) Extend your diff breathers. $40 worth of hose will see you right there.

We took 2 x overloaded worn out 60's and a stocko 80, right at the start of the season last timewe went - not a snorkel amongst em. No worries. My 105 wouldn't find it hard. Say some Hyundai's up there. Save the coin, do what you need to. Don't rush. FYI - not a single flat tyre on 3 vehicles, north and south telgraph both ways. If you aren't fitting a long range tank - leave the spare where it is. Throw a spare tyre (not rim) on the roof. Laughing.

Paul

[clownman]

all great help guys that 400 kg ome shocks sound like what i might be after as for the breathers and snorkal and that type of thing definately be doing those thank you all for the up dates and no i am not going to rush this at all and yes a spare tyre with no rim is on the cards but because i will e running 285 75 16's they are far too big to sit under the car as they sit lower than the rear pumkin so it is definately going on the ack on some sort of bar,

[ADAM 26]

i have the ome set up in mine, it rides great and with the long range tank filled it still sits nice, i towed a trailer full of bricks and concrete the other day, it still handeled pretty much the same!

as i said before, the only thing letting it down for me it the ground clearence, i think because all my mates have 35s and 4 inch lift and im trying to follow them!

[stinger]

Just got back from the Cape a few weeks ago. Here are my thoughts

For a novice 4WDriver or the idiots the cape is a hard trip, terribly dangerous and really difficult and destroys vehicles.

If you walk every crossing and are sensible and have some reasonale 4wd skills then the Cape is a walk in the park (ask the two Itialian girls in 2wd van).

I took a stock height 2004 Disco on Goodyear Silent Armours up towing a balanced Camper trailer (not 200kgs plus on the ball!!!) to the Tip via OTL and back via Frenchmen's track without any damage, a flat tyre or even a bogging.

As others have said a water bra is a must, use appropriate tyre pressures, walk the crossing (few if any are a straight line if you drive sensibly) and you will have a great time and no hassles.

Do not worry about long range fuel tanks as there are plenty of places to buy it unless you go into Bathurst Bay they you may want a jerry. Kimberly, well I have no idea there (not yet anyhow).

Most of the trouble I saw and heard about came from people not walking the creeks, driving too fast through the creeks or Kimberly Campers with over 200kgs on the tow ball twisting towbars.

The main road up the guts is the best it has ever been according to the locals, with more road works still occurring as we came out.

Hope this helps.

[clownman]

all help is good help stinger

all people going are seasoned 4wd drivers even compete in the winch challenge so we arnt going blindfolded

will be ordering the ome shocks next week fingers crossed

[stinger]

Well if you guys are experienced then my suggestion is to take stock vehicles, highway tyres and a full size caravan to try and make it challenging then.

For experienced drivers forget the challenge of the drive and just enjoy the scenery.....

[Dane]

Don't forget you are only going to the Cape, not the Moon. It is still tracks and water crossings just like the rest of the country. Coupled with thousands of km's of Queensland's shithouse roads. The same sort of requirements apply there as anywhere else in Australia with similar types of terrain. Sensible, practical vehicle set ups (and driving) will get you there and back safely and enjoyably. If old Landrovers and the like could handle it forty years ago when the conditions were much worse, your modern (proper) 4wd's will too.

[dabulg]

The trick is to allow plenty of time for the return journey. If you just blast up and back at top speed because of time restraints you will break something and miss out on some awsome sights. Those old Landrovers ect used to do it no worried because they were going slow as.

Bit of a crap situation. You have rush back to the job you need to pay for the modern 4x4 you need to do the trip in quick time. Might be better of with a $2000 dollar Landcrab and take 3 months to do the trip ?

Depands on the level of comfort each one of us wants hey.