Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
Power steering conversion q for 45 series
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
Power steering conversion q for 45 series
G'day, just wondering if one can use a 75 series steering box on a 40/45? I know that most use 60 gear or some use 80 series, but the price is right for the 75 box.
Cheers.
Cheers.
The 60 and 80 boxes have the advantage of having forward facing pitman arms so that they can be mounted further back on the rails. It also helps if you want to extend your wheelbase at the front.
The 70 series pitman faces backwards so it has to be mounted further forwards and you'll possibly have to extend the rails a bit to make it fit.
I just went out and measured the 75 box in the garage and the distance between the bolt in the pitman arm and the bolt holes that connect the box to the chassis is ~9". If you have 9" (call it 10") distance between your draglink and the edge of your chassis you should be sweet.
PM me if you want pics comparing a 7xseries box and a 60s box, I have both.
The 70 series pitman faces backwards so it has to be mounted further forwards and you'll possibly have to extend the rails a bit to make it fit.
I just went out and measured the 75 box in the garage and the distance between the bolt in the pitman arm and the bolt holes that connect the box to the chassis is ~9". If you have 9" (call it 10") distance between your draglink and the edge of your chassis you should be sweet.
PM me if you want pics comparing a 7xseries box and a 60s box, I have both.
|^^^^^^^^^^^^^^| ||
|.........SUZUKI..........| ||'|";, ____.
|_..._..._______===|=||_|__|..., ]
(@)'(@)"""''"**|(@)(@)*****''(@)
|.........SUZUKI..........| ||'|";, ____.
|_..._..._______===|=||_|__|..., ]
(@)'(@)"""''"**|(@)(@)*****''(@)
Resident Terrorist
x2v840 wrote:The 60 and 80 boxes have the advantage of having forward facing pitman arms so that they can be mounted further back on the rails. It also helps if you want to extend your wheelbase at the front.
The 70 series pitman faces backwards so it has to be mounted further forwards and you'll possibly have to extend the rails a bit to make it fit.
I just went out and measured the 75 box in the garage and the distance between the bolt in the pitman arm and the bolt holes that connect the box to the chassis is ~9". If you have 9" (call it 10") distance between your draglink and the edge of your chassis you should be sweet.
I don't think the 70 box will fit. For a 60 box and pitman arm to be in the right spot the box needs to be mounted a fair way down the chassis and the rear body of the box ends up almost flush with the front grill panel. For a 70 box to have its pitman arm in the right spot the box would need to be mounted a long way out on the chassis rail outside the front panel. Will look terrible and probably interfere with the bullbar mount.
Re: Power steering conversion q for 45 series
yeah i have one 40 series with a 75 series box, looks a fugly setup because the box is out the front but it works well.hj 45 wrote:G'day, just wondering if one can use a 75 series steering box on a 40/45? I know that most use 60 gear or some use 80 series, but the price is right for the 75 box.
Cheers.
i woudl stick to 60 sries gear simply because it looks neater.
Jes
ATTACH BROKEN TOYOTA HERE--->
DUCATI <-----Worlds best warning label
DUCATI <-----Worlds best warning label
Resident Terrorist
You'll probably find the 80 intermediate shaft is too long to use with either box (might fit with 55 column though if it doesnt protude from the firewall as much as the 40??). It is not a normal colapsing shaft with sheer pins. Its like a concertina tyrpe shaft that's designed to compress/bend in an accident and its almost impossible to colapse the shaft straight (would probably weaken it considerably too).
There is a way to keep your 40 column and still use the 60/80 box. You will need a bush for the base of the 40 column, an 80 series rag joint which you really only need one half of to mate to the end of the 40 column. Then you need a 75 intermediate shaft which needs to be colapsed to suit.
Bit of info here in regards to the bush and how it fits: http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/phpBB2/ft ... ight=48019
There is a way to keep your 40 column and still use the 60/80 box. You will need a bush for the base of the 40 column, an 80 series rag joint which you really only need one half of to mate to the end of the 40 column. Then you need a 75 intermediate shaft which needs to be colapsed to suit.
Bit of info here in regards to the bush and how it fits: http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/phpBB2/ft ... ight=48019
you dont reallt need to change the column, just fabricate a bracket to hold a bearing or a bush at the end the steering column shaft. quite easy on any FJ40 that does not have the steering lock as a bearing or bush will slide all the way down to the base.hj 45 wrote:Yeah the 60 box is my preferred option, as long as I can get a 55 column........ Otherwise the 80 box with 80 intermediate shaft might be a goer to butt up to the 45 column.
then all you need is to mount the origional RAG joint that was used to from the shaft to the box, and then run a intermediate shaft between the rag joint on the shaft and the rag joint on the box.
for the intermediate shaft you can also use a collapsible column shaft from a landcruiser that has a collapsable column, you just slide it in until its the right length.
JEs
ATTACH BROKEN TOYOTA HERE--->
DUCATI <-----Worlds best warning label
DUCATI <-----Worlds best warning label
RAY185 wrote:You'll probably find the 80 intermediate shaft is too long to use with either box (might fit with 55 column though if it doesnt protude from the firewall as much as the 40??). It is not a normal colapsing shaft with sheer pins. Its like a concertina tyrpe shaft that's designed to compress/bend in an accident and its almost impossible to colapse the shaft straight (would probably weaken it considerably too).
There is a way to keep your 40 column and still use the 60/80 box. You will need a bush for the base of the 40 column, an 80 series rag joint which you really only need one half of to mate to the end of the 40 column. Then you need a 75 intermediate shaft which needs to be colapsed to suit.
Bit of info here in regards to the bush and how it fits: http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/phpBB2/ft ... ight=48019
just checked that link, that bush is a great idea aswell much simpler.
Jes
ATTACH BROKEN TOYOTA HERE--->
DUCATI <-----Worlds best warning label
DUCATI <-----Worlds best warning label
Resident Terrorist
The result of a couple of cold beers, a set of verniers and a nolathane catalogue.jessie928 wrote:RAY185 wrote:You'll probably find the 80 intermediate shaft is too long to use with either box (might fit with 55 column though if it doesnt protude from the firewall as much as the 40??). It is not a normal colapsing shaft with sheer pins. Its like a concertina tyrpe shaft that's designed to compress/bend in an accident and its almost impossible to colapse the shaft straight (would probably weaken it considerably too).
There is a way to keep your 40 column and still use the 60/80 box. You will need a bush for the base of the 40 column, an 80 series rag joint which you really only need one half of to mate to the end of the 40 column. Then you need a 75 intermediate shaft which needs to be colapsed to suit.
Bit of info here in regards to the bush and how it fits: http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/phpBB2/ft ... ight=48019
just checked that link, that bush is a great idea aswell much simpler.
Jes
ah bugger, if you want/need the lock ( imho useless in a fj40) just get a pre-lock steering shaft.hj 45 wrote:Ok, my column has the steering lock, so the bush won't slide over, do I a). Get the weld ground back to remove the 'bell', slide bush on, reweld - maybe a driveshaft place would do this? Or just get an earlier column, anyone know when the steering lock was introduced?
or just slice once side of the bush lengthways and then chamfer the INSIDE of the cut on both sides before you grease it and slide it onto the shaft.
all good, EASY.
JEs
ATTACH BROKEN TOYOTA HERE--->
DUCATI <-----Worlds best warning label
DUCATI <-----Worlds best warning label
Yeah the bell where the steering lock notches are located is 9mm bigger in diameter than the rest of the shaft, so there's no way the bush will slide over, mate and myself mucked around and cut one side of the bush and it slides over, but I don't like the idea of a bush installed that doesn't totally wrap around, it'd work, but yeah...... Good thing you get two bushes.
Here's a pic:
The top part where the bearing is located and spline for the steering wheel looks to be a separate part to the rest, pressed into the 'bell'. This is from a HJ 45, build date Feb. 1980.
Here's a pic:
The top part where the bearing is located and spline for the steering wheel looks to be a separate part to the rest, pressed into the 'bell'. This is from a HJ 45, build date Feb. 1980.
[quote="v840"]The 60 and 80 boxes have the advantage of having forward facing pitman arms so that they can be mounted further back on the rails. It also helps if you want to extend your wheelbase at the front.
The 70 series pitman faces backwards so it has to be mounted further forwards and you'll possibly have to extend the rails a bit to make it fit.
Hi i am to use the Bundera box it has forward facing pitman arm and (i think easyer to find) only thing that differs to a 60 box is that the pitman arm has a smaler kone to the stering arm..
The 70 series pitman faces backwards so it has to be mounted further forwards and you'll possibly have to extend the rails a bit to make it fit.
Hi i am to use the Bundera box it has forward facing pitman arm and (i think easyer to find) only thing that differs to a 60 box is that the pitman arm has a smaler kone to the stering arm..
Resident Terrorist
get an old socket that's big enought sit over of the cones, then proceed bash the socket with a lump hammer, this shoudl dislodge the cones.hj 45 wrote:Oh and while I'm at it, how the hell do you remove the cone washers in the knuckle?
becareful NOT to bash the cones
Jes
ATTACH BROKEN TOYOTA HERE--->
DUCATI <-----Worlds best warning label
DUCATI <-----Worlds best warning label
Resident Terrorist
Yeah I should have mentioned you will need to do a little bit of booty fab with that rag joint. Was a little while ago so my memory is a little foggy but I'll try and explain it as best I can. I also took a couple of pics when I did it so I'll put them up.hj 45 wrote:Time to resurrect this thread, I'm looking at the 80 series rag joint with attached uni and it doesn't look like it'll mate up with the bottom of the 40 column, the 80 rag just looks to small to attach to the 2 holes in the end of the 40 column?
You will be using only one side of the 80 rag joint. The side with the uni joint on it.
Dismantle the joint and reassemble with the rag and lugs onto the side with the uni. Like this:
Now as you have said, the 80 joint is a bit smaller than the 40 one so you will need to grind a bit off each side of the 40 end where the lugs engage to make it fit. Then you will need to elongate the bolt holes on the 40 end joint to line up to the holes in the rag and bolt it together.
You can sort of see how its bolted together in this pic which also shows the shortened 75 intermediate shaft and uni joint to power steering box.
Couple more pics showing box location and clearancing required to inner guard and back of shock tower.
Have fun.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests