G-day bloke's, as the heading state's my triton auto is a bit crook. Its slipping 500 rpm or so between 2nd + 3rd and 3rd + 4th gear's under load and ever so l slightly when pussy footing! ive had the fluid replaced and the box serviced but it has come back from the shop in a worse state than when it went in, it now has a bit of a whine to it, a mate rekons it is the new fluid they put in because it is a bit thinner than the old stuff that came out!
My main question is do the triton auto boxs have band's or small clutch packs in the auto transmission, in clutch packs I mean like the commodore turbo 700 which has small packs of clutch's instead of band's.
Bands can be tightened but clutch packs have to be rebuilt!, just looking for a heads up before I take it to another gearbox shop! I will not take it back to the last shop as I am quite unhappy with the service I got! the bloke rekons he took it for a drive and said the box was ok but when I got in and went home I was horrified at how much worse the gearbox was!
Please help
Bretty
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Triton automatic sick!
Moderator: -Scott-
I have the same issues with my challenger. Don't know if there the same box or not. I get the 2-3 flair then the 3-4 flair. Then one day no 4th gear. Rebuild time. Then I get the flairs back. Gearbox place wants nothing to do with it. Mines goining in for its 20,000k service in a couple of weeks and if nothing happens i'm off to the MTA.
What year is your triton and whats the gearbox code. Have a look on the build plate.
What year is your triton and whats the gearbox code. Have a look on the build plate.
G-day sooby mate! Yeah I too have had the box fully rebuilt at $2750, new torque conv. after market oil cooler up front now, and yes she still has a small flair or slip at 2nd - 3rd , .... thats the only one, 3rd - 4th is ok now but am just wondering if the mitsi auto's are a dud! the year is 2000, unsure of the bow code but will have a look for you!subarursliberty wrote:I have the same issues with my challenger. Don't know if there the same box or not. I get the 2-3 flair then the 3-4 flair. Then one day no 4th gear. Rebuild time. Then I get the flairs back. Gearbox place wants nothing to do with it. Mines goining in for its 20,000k service in a couple of weeks and if nothing happens i'm off to the MTA.
What year is your triton and whats the gearbox code. Have a look on the build plate.
Cheers
Bretty
Thats cheap. Yours is the second one I have found that has gone booom. Don't strees. To much. If yours is the same as a Challenger then there the same as the Pajero 5 speed minus one and my gear box builder said he is yet to see one, and there 9 years old now. Mine went back for its first service since the rebuild and the flair is totally gone. They are also close to the mangna box inside. This is of cause if its a mitsubishi brand.
Just remember to service it. Mine had never been serviced (100,000ks and a dumb previous owner). Also get a temp guage and put it on the cool side of the cooler. I got a Stewart Warner guage and T junction from pirtek. If you get no reading after it heats up about 10mins it means there is a blockage and it will overheat and go bigger booom. Also low range will drop the temps heaps. I was always in high range on Stockton beach and one day I tested it in low range and the temp dropped from 100 degrees to 80 degrees. On the street it will rarely get above 80, only summer in traffic. I found in Low range it would go into third and lock the convertor dropping the temp. You don't need to get there fast, and with that much load low range is just extra insurance.
Just remember to service it. Mine had never been serviced (100,000ks and a dumb previous owner). Also get a temp guage and put it on the cool side of the cooler. I got a Stewart Warner guage and T junction from pirtek. If you get no reading after it heats up about 10mins it means there is a blockage and it will overheat and go bigger booom. Also low range will drop the temps heaps. I was always in high range on Stockton beach and one day I tested it in low range and the temp dropped from 100 degrees to 80 degrees. On the street it will rarely get above 80, only summer in traffic. I found in Low range it would go into third and lock the convertor dropping the temp. You don't need to get there fast, and with that much load low range is just extra insurance.
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