Turbo 700 auto.

[ORSM45]

been thinking about putting one behind the 383. whats everyones thoughts?

if i got a shift kit and made it fully manualised (made up word?) would engine braking be a bit better than with a normal auto?

would i see better rear wheel kw figures with the auto rather than the heavy landcruiser box?

i know id get better front tailshaft length.

dont like the fact i cant roll start.

will hold up better if i get a supercharger.

thanks

MaccA

[-Mick-]

Voted turbo 700 mate Would give you really good control of the vehicle IMO with appropriate transfer gearing.

I would think the auto might detract more from rear wheel outputs though (pretty marginal with a 383 ) rather than use less.

manualised (made up word?)

It's a real word

[Butt Craic]

Like a lot of mods, the choice probably depends a lot on the type of driving that you would be doing. Before I left Melbourne I was less convinced of the auto option because engine braking on that wet clay can be a godsend. Since I've moved to NSW and the terrain I'm driving has largely changed, I'd love to go auto but don't have the power to push big tyres and an auto even if an adapter was available for the TD42.

I've run a TH700 behind a 307 in a 40 series soft top. Was fully manual shift kitted and had the ability to lock out the torque converter altogether in case you ever wanted to punch it up a ledge. With the 383 you should have no worries with power.

I voted for the TH700 but make sure you spend the $$s to get it built properly. Even around Melb I think a motor with that much power is more drivable with the auto.

[brumby runner]

I'd love to go auto but don't have the power to push big tyres and an auto even if an adapter was available for the TD42.

TD42 came with an auto on some GQ wagons in the mid 90s.

[antt]

mate has a turbo 700 behind a 350 in a 45 ute, has only been driven round the yard, but makes it nice to drive. also, on the tailshaft angles, his front and rear tailshaft are almost identicle in length

[80UTE]

I would go the manual as most Vivtorians go wheelin in the bush and we have some steep country i like the added braking the manual gives. Ive had a V8 Auto Toyota (T400) a lot of years ago with a "D" stall (low rpm stall 400rpm)convertor to give maximum engine brakeing and a BB chev 80 Sahara 4L80E but the ratio's in the auto's are suited to passenger cars and first is not low enough. I run a bigblock chev 80 ute and never concidered the auto option as it would be nice to drive but i like the security of the manual also be all know that chev starters are not the most reliable.
Go the manual its heaps strong enough for any small block ive run cruiser 5 speeds on b/blocks with no drama's.

[Butt Craic]

I'd love to go auto but don't have the power to push big tyres and an auto even if an adapter was available for the TD42.

TD42 came with an auto on some GQ wagons in the mid 90s.

Don't think any of them would have been trying to turn 38" and bigger tyres tho . . .

[turps]

I'd love to go auto but don't have the power to push big tyres and an auto even if an adapter was available for the TD42.

TD42 came with an auto on some GQ wagons in the mid 90s.

Don't think any of them would have been trying to turn 38" and bigger tyres tho . . .

skankygoldpatrol ( I think that is it) also known as MQHOON had a TD42 with GQ auto running 38's. They had the solonoids changed so it was manul shitft as well.

[ORSM45]

was talkin to a mate who has a stage 2 auto. he recons its awesome coz he can use 'drive' for around town and the shifter for racing on weekends.

its not a strength thing really, i know that the landcruiser box's are a damn strong box, mate has a heavy right foot with his 454. just keeping my options open, as i need to do the bearings in my 5 spd. and while im pulling it out. or maybe later when a supercharger arrives in the next rebuild.

ive always liked manuals and thought autos were crap, but i think with the amount of power it will be low enough gearing in low range. im not really into major rock crawling. (plus i can still make good times at calder park )

does anyone know what id be looking at for doing the bearings in the 5 spd?

or where in northern/eastern melbourne i could get a good stage 2, T700 built? (please dont say dandenong )

i think my exhaust will get in the way (im getting another one afterwards anyway.) and that crossmember behind the transfer will most likely need moving.

thanks,
MaccA

P.S. isnt the christie bros patrol an auto

@ antt. how bigs his yard?

Quote:
manualised (made up word?)
It's a real word

mj, good to know for further use.[/quote]

[Butt Craic]

I'm still not convinced about running such big tyres with the standard TD42. Perhaps it is coming from Vic and playing in the clay around Toolangi State Forest that has made me appreciate the ability to rapidly spin the tyres to clean them out - possibly more an option with reduction tranfer case gearing and the auto.

Like I said earlier, the terrain that I'm driving now has changed. Would I have considered an auto a real option back in Vic, probably not. Would I do it now (even with the TD42), probably, if I could afford it and work out how to fit a 4 speed (preferably the TH700) to the TD42.

[TOY-08V]

Its all personal pref, and what the truck is used for, ive got a injected 5litre in my lux and i run a turbo 700, but if ur not going to be doing a lot of freeway work then id go a manualised turbo 400 cause their strong as.

[Trickster]

Yup, i voted 'other' as i've just wacked in the TH400 behind my 383 and i only got that 'cause they're strong as, and i figure if i get another 'motah' its only gonna get bigger , so i wanted a auto to handle it. 'Future-proofing' you could say

Like someone said above, spend the money and get it built well. Took me ages to find someone to do mine. +i got my stall converter re-done down to around 1000rpm. Bloody great, slip it into 1st and it jumps, you really got to STAND on the brakes to hold her

+one more thing: I recomend a 'reverse shift pattern' with your auto. That way when your idling in Neutral you dont have to go all the way down through 3rd and 2nd to get 1st.

The other wee thing i found out is that the oil doesnt circulate through the oil cooler when the beast is in 'park' and the engine is running, thus she gets hot! (bad) So if i have to wait and idle for a bit i either leave it in 'N' or turn it off.(cheaper on fuel too ) There is probably somebody with a kit out there to remedy this, but i havent looked.

My 0.02c
Phil