Phill
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Rustproofing - electronic, or the "old fashioned way&qu
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Rustproofing - electronic, or the "old fashioned way&qu
Well the title is self explanatory. Is the electronic way of rustproofing better, or the old fashioned way, ie, tar (i think it is?). Seeing how im going to hang on to the truck for many years to come, i wanna make sure it lasts me that long
Phill
Phill
Phill
1995 DX 80 series, brought to you by:- 1HDFTE, A750, PWR, Secret Squirrell Steinbauer, BFG, GME, Engel, ARB, Kaymar, and my empty wallet!
1995 DX 80 series, brought to you by:- 1HDFTE, A750, PWR, Secret Squirrell Steinbauer, BFG, GME, Engel, ARB, Kaymar, and my empty wallet!
Posts: 3523
Joined: Sun May 18, 2003 8:42 pm
Joined: Sun May 18, 2003 8:42 pm
Location: Somewhere they can't reach me, shoot me or electrocute me...
Depends on the age of the vehicle. Last thing I'd want to do if I had a brand new GU is pour 3 litres of fisholene into the panels, but I wouldn't waste the money on electronic protection on my old junk either.
I use 3 diffferent products, first is a cavity wax called ARP from K & H. This is good for large panels/areas, not resistant to abrasion though. Not that flash for filling cracks either, after the solvents evaporate the film will crack and let in moisture, then I follow up with fisho down the cracks and seams. This stuff is the best - it will bleed through unprimed sikaflex and under body deadener. Remains tacky for quite a while, and despite the smell (which does go away) it remains the ultimate for sealing seams stopping existing rust from getting any worse, so long as you can stop any mechanical abrasion from scarring the coating. Last is the bitumen based body deadener, spray on aerosol or 1 litre can and application gun, or even the trowel-on deadener for fat seams where you wouldn't use a drip check or seam sealant.
I use 3 diffferent products, first is a cavity wax called ARP from K & H. This is good for large panels/areas, not resistant to abrasion though. Not that flash for filling cracks either, after the solvents evaporate the film will crack and let in moisture, then I follow up with fisho down the cracks and seams. This stuff is the best - it will bleed through unprimed sikaflex and under body deadener. Remains tacky for quite a while, and despite the smell (which does go away) it remains the ultimate for sealing seams stopping existing rust from getting any worse, so long as you can stop any mechanical abrasion from scarring the coating. Last is the bitumen based body deadener, spray on aerosol or 1 litre can and application gun, or even the trowel-on deadener for fat seams where you wouldn't use a drip check or seam sealant.
Built, not bought.
Area54
DAMN!! That sounds like alot of work!!!
The car is a 1995 model 80 series. Im thinking the electronic way is going to be ALOT easier than the other way, but what works better, i got no idea
DAMN!! That sounds like alot of work!!!
The car is a 1995 model 80 series. Im thinking the electronic way is going to be ALOT easier than the other way, but what works better, i got no idea
Phill
1995 DX 80 series, brought to you by:- 1HDFTE, A750, PWR, Secret Squirrell Steinbauer, BFG, GME, Engel, ARB, Kaymar, and my empty wallet!
1995 DX 80 series, brought to you by:- 1HDFTE, A750, PWR, Secret Squirrell Steinbauer, BFG, GME, Engel, ARB, Kaymar, and my empty wallet!
Posts: 3523
Joined: Sun May 18, 2003 8:42 pm
Joined: Sun May 18, 2003 8:42 pm
Location: Somewhere they can't reach me, shoot me or electrocute me...
it is a lot of work, but its part of the responsibility of maintaining a machine in good working order.
Your rig would prolly go pretty good with electronic protection, I don't know anybody that has even used it though, but their claims sound allright, but it could be just like the Hiclone debate...
Your rig would prolly go pretty good with electronic protection, I don't know anybody that has even used it though, but their claims sound allright, but it could be just like the Hiclone debate...
Built, not bought.
I used the erps unit and it was shit. I don't like saying bad stuff about products on here but for my purpose it did not work good at all. I had a few spots already present when it was installed and it did not seem to stop any spread at all and new spots came up while the unit was there.
Yes it was properly installed by an agent for the product!
I think as long as your car is in really good nick when you install it it may be ok. I would go the other one though I think it is 'counteract'. They seem to be the best ones. (more $ though)
I would use both with a later model car like yours and get any rust spots fixed up before you bother with the electronic one. Fish oil is ok you can get stuff that doesn't smell as bad and as said it gets into every little nook and fanny
Yes it was properly installed by an agent for the product!
I think as long as your car is in really good nick when you install it it may be ok. I would go the other one though I think it is 'counteract'. They seem to be the best ones. (more $ though)
I would use both with a later model car like yours and get any rust spots fixed up before you bother with the electronic one. Fish oil is ok you can get stuff that doesn't smell as bad and as said it gets into every little nook and fanny
have used quite a lot of the electronic systems on large air-con systems to help stop/slow the rust on them.
I have used most brands and had them installed by the companys involved and also installed them myself.
The main problems with them is how inconsistant they are sometimes they were the best things (4 Years on beach front propertys with NO rust) or they wouldn't do anything. One thing you need to look at is all the small print when getting them cause they cover themselves for every possible problem and why it is somehow not there fault.
Put one on a work van cause the tech lived on the beach but the rust set in (took about 11mths) but the company involved just wasn't interested in the problem.
fish oil, tectal etc will work much better just requires a bit of upkeep.
I have used most brands and had them installed by the companys involved and also installed them myself.
The main problems with them is how inconsistant they are sometimes they were the best things (4 Years on beach front propertys with NO rust) or they wouldn't do anything. One thing you need to look at is all the small print when getting them cause they cover themselves for every possible problem and why it is somehow not there fault.
Put one on a work van cause the tech lived on the beach but the rust set in (took about 11mths) but the company involved just wasn't interested in the problem.
fish oil, tectal etc will work much better just requires a bit of upkeep.
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