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80 rear bearing locknut PCD

Tech Talk for Cruiser owners.

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Posts: 24
Joined: Sun Jun 17, 2007 10:10 pm
Location: surrounded by sands

80 rear bearing locknut PCD

Post by 7evans »

I am chasing the pcd of the wheel bearing nut of the rear of the 80 series.
I've tried a few stores and some don't even know what your talking about, Toyota said they can not sell me one.

So, I'm going to make a few so need that info before I pull it apart.
Cheers in advance...
Last edited by 7evans on Sun Aug 23, 2009 12:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Posts: 613
Joined: Sun Jun 28, 2009 1:44 pm
Location: qld

Post by ledgend80 »

are you trying to make a socket for the rear wheel bearing. if so i can have a look at the one i made for you. all i did was get a bit of round pipe and got 3 bolts, cut the head off the bolt and welded it to the pipe bit crude but it worked
Posts: 24
Joined: Sun Jun 17, 2007 10:10 pm
Location: surrounded by sands

Post by 7evans »

Yep thats pretty much it. or I'll probably do it properly and cut a disc with the plasma, drill the holes to match the pcd and weld bolts through it, then a nut in the centre and done. So I'll make a few at once
Posts: 34
Joined: Thu Mar 26, 2009 1:47 pm
Location: gatton qld

Re: 80 rear bearing locknut PCD

Post by land8079 »

7evans wrote:I am chasing the pcd of the wheel bearing nut of the rear of the 80 series.
I've tried a few stores and some don't even know what your talking about, Toyota said they can not sell me one.

So, I'm going to make a few so need that info before I pull it apart.
Cheers in advance...
You cun purchase this tool from don kyat, bout 20 bucks i think.
Posts: 48
Joined: Sun Jan 21, 2007 12:22 pm
Location: Woodford QLD

Post by cozzav8 »

Use a screwdriver with a soft hammer, done millions of repacks and never used a tool, never buggered the nut either cause they dont need to be that tight
79 Series RV, 305 Mickey T's, 2" OME, 3" into twin 4" stacks, LOL, Love it
Posts: 24
Joined: Sun Jun 17, 2007 10:10 pm
Location: surrounded by sands

Post by 7evans »

I knew I'd get these types of answers but when your 600 k's from the nearest town and just over 2800k's from the nearest kyatts, with a serious case of the CBF's in a workshop I may as well make something for my benifit. I know screwdrivers could do, but may as well make something to pass my time and look like I'm working. So hole centres would be handy.

thanks anyway guy's...
Posts: 243
Joined: Thu Jul 15, 2004 9:21 am
Location: Townsville

Post by Dane »

cozzav8 wrote:Use a screwdriver with a soft hammer, done millions of repacks and never used a tool, never buggered the nut either cause they dont need to be that tight
What torque do you set the screwdriver/hammer to?
Posts: 5179
Joined: Fri Dec 05, 2003 8:15 pm
Location: Brisbane Australia

Post by Shadow »

Dane wrote:
cozzav8 wrote:Use a screwdriver with a soft hammer, done millions of repacks and never used a tool, never buggered the nut either cause they dont need to be that tight
What torque do you set the screwdriver/hammer to?
Page 4 of the bogan mechanic's handbook :armsup:


I made my own tool out of a plate of 6mm steel and 3 high tensile(series 500) metal cutting screws which I then ground down to about 15mm long.

Cut a square hole in the plate it to take a torque wrench.

Works great.

have seen the tools at sunstate 4wd parts but I'm glad I made my own anyway :)

As for PCD, i will measure my tool when i call in to dads house next as his shed is the designated workshop. Hopefully someone can get it for you sooner though.
03 HDJ100R GXL / 94 FJ45-80
Posts: 550
Joined: Tue Mar 04, 2008 7:40 pm
Location: Gympie Qld

Post by fester2au »

I've been looking at this the last week also as my rear is apart and I have a spare nut. If memory serves me right (it was last week after all) the PCD is 58mm and the holes will take about an 8mm rod.

I was gunna get a bloke I know to water jet some plates for me with a 3/8 drive hole and the stud holes and weld in some bar. Was gunna do some in 4mm stainless plate orr 5mm mild and bung them on ebay as I'd heard they were only available at Toyota and were dear but if they are truely $20 at Don Kyatt or similar it's hardly worth the effort. May as well just make a single by hand for myself.
Posts: 5179
Joined: Fri Dec 05, 2003 8:15 pm
Location: Brisbane Australia

Post by Shadow »

fester2au wrote:I've been looking at this the last week also as my rear is apart and I have a spare nut. If memory serves me right (it was last week after all) the PCD is 58mm and the holes will take about an 8mm rod.

I was gunna get a bloke I know to water jet some plates for me with a 3/8 drive hole and the stud holes and weld in some bar. Was gunna do some in 4mm stainless plate orr 5mm mild and bung them on ebay as I'd heard they were only available at Toyota and were dear but if they are truely $20 at Don Kyatt or similar it's hardly worth the effort. May as well just make a single by hand for myself.
you need to use strong bar for the pins, like hardened?

I tried mine at first with just some 8mm bolts, but the bolts bent very easily.

The don Kyatt one uses about 10mm hex rod with the last 5mm turned down to about 8mm to gain strength.

Swapping to high tensile screws solved the problem for me, and whilst it looks a bit bodgy it works very well :)

Also, i think 8mm was slightly too big for the opins from memory, and i had to use 6mm bolts, maybe thats why they were so weak.
03 HDJ100R GXL / 94 FJ45-80
Posts: 550
Joined: Tue Mar 04, 2008 7:40 pm
Location: Gympie Qld

Post by fester2au »

Yeah shadow can't remember if 8mm was a good fit or tight. 5/16 might be better. Looked at it and just haven't got around to doing it. How long were your pins. I was thinking and hoping that given the load is not high that if the pins were short it might be OK. I was thinking only around 20-30mm or what ever was the minimum to clear the tube. Rather use an extension bar on the ratchet than llong pins on the tool. Was also tossing up using say 10mm bar with the bases machined down for the same reason. The more I hear the less it's worth making many though.
Posts: 5179
Joined: Fri Dec 05, 2003 8:15 pm
Location: Brisbane Australia

Post by Shadow »

fester2au wrote:Yeah shadow can't remember if 8mm was a good fit or tight. 5/16 might be better. Looked at it and just haven't got around to doing it. How long were your pins. I was thinking and hoping that given the load is not high that if the pins were short it might be OK. I was thinking only around 20-30mm or what ever was the minimum to clear the tube. Rather use an extension bar on the ratchet than llong pins on the tool. Was also tossing up using say 10mm bar with the bases machined down for the same reason. The more I hear the less it's worth making many though.
I think my pins are about 25mm long and thats enough to clear the tube happily. And I do have to use an extension on my torque wrench with that setup.

The screws I used are no more than 5mm in diameter and the more I think about it the more I think 8mm wouldn't fit.

The one I saw at don kyatts the pins looked about 40mm long which is perhaps why they've used the 20mm hex bar etc.

I havent seen a toyota tool so the don kyatt tool might just be a direct copy.
03 HDJ100R GXL / 94 FJ45-80
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