Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user. If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
Latheing out a sir-clip groove is the better way to go, while you are actually removing material you are also replacing it at the same time with the clip !
depending on the application ofcourse which is ....????
Last edited by V8Patrol on Mon Feb 23, 2004 10:03 am, edited 1 time in total.
[color=blue][size=150][b]And your cry-baby, whinyassed opinion would be.....? [/b][/size][/color]
4sum4 wrote:Just wondering what peoples opinions are and what you`ve done.
A little tack would make a weak spot about 50% through
Machining a sir clip would make a weak spot all the way around but not all the way through
Doesnt look to me like he is talking about a way to stop an axle doing anything. Looks like he is asking how to build something the right or wrong way.
4sum4 wrote:I`m fitting my new front cv`s and want to make do with the inner sir clip so I want to machine or tack the inner axle.
Thats a little better info.
1st- Dont machine a groove as the clip is replacing nothing it never becomes part of the axle so the matirial you remove is gone.
2nd- You wont fit a Circlip at the 30 spline end anyway as there is no room inside the diff centre.
3rd- A tac of weld wont penitrate 50% into the axle i doubt it will even penitrate 10% in. One small tac is all that is needed but it then needs to be ground down to fit inside the centre.
4th- What type of CVs are you using to require removal of the inner clip?
spazbot wrote:i think he has himself some longfields,
if your running a arb in the front you dont need to worry bout tacking do ya
from reading PBB u need 2 tack the axle with every front except some guys r saying that some of the lockrite (i think cant remember exactly) u dont need 2 tack
spazbot wrote:i think he has himself some longfields,
if your running a arb in the front you dont need to worry bout tacking do ya
from reading PBB u need 2 tack the axle with every front except some guys r saying that some of the lockrite (i think cant remember exactly) u dont need 2 tack
I just put my longs in yesterday and have a lockright and needed to put the circlip in as the axle went too far past the seal. If I had the resources and time I would have used a martack. But I need the car for work and had to do job yesterday. I also found the long side CV was creacked in two places Hopefully the longs will last.
cbr wrote: I just put my longs in yesterday and have a lockright and needed to put the circlip in as the axle went too far past the seal. If I had the resources and time I would have used a martack. But I need the car for work and had to do job yesterday. I also found the long side CV was creacked in two places Hopefully the longs will last.
Chris.
The long was Cracked or the one you pulled was cracked?
cbr wrote: I just put my longs in yesterday and have a lockright and needed to put the circlip in as the axle went too far past the seal. If I had the resources and time I would have used a martack. But I need the car for work and had to do job yesterday. I also found the long side CV was creacked in two places Hopefully the longs will last.
Chris.
The long was Cracked or the one you pulled was cracked?
I still have my new style Longfields sitting at home. I was going to use the clip. Have no idea about the other thing you mention. Anyone want to explain it for me?
ToNkA wrote:I still have my new style Longfields sitting at home. I was going to use the clip. Have no idea about the other thing you mention. Anyone want to explain it for me?