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15x10's vs 8's with spaces
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15x10's vs 8's with spaces
Obviously i want track increased, what would be the best way to go?
Taking into account bagging for the 8's, pressure of the extra offset on the bearings and are tyres more easy to roll off rims on a 10 over 8 (no beadlocks)... there is not all that much diffrence in price between the two options.
BTW the tyres are 35/12.5's...
Taking into account bagging for the 8's, pressure of the extra offset on the bearings and are tyres more easy to roll off rims on a 10 over 8 (no beadlocks)... there is not all that much diffrence in price between the two options.
BTW the tyres are 35/12.5's...
The 8" ones will give your 35s a slightly better diameter as it sucks the side wall in. The 10's will give ya more width.
Probably marginal but I have seen quite a difference before. The 8's may give you a lot of sidewall bag when pressure is dropped?
I run 10's and have not had a problem but I think that it would logically be easier to roll a bead off on 10's than 8's.
If ya ever plan on going external beadlocks I would use 8's
I also run spacers but if I could get the same width with offset rims I would prefer it! Spacers can be a PITA when you are hot and muddy and you have to take em off. Even with a rattle gun it is just an extra thing ya have to do.
Probably marginal but I have seen quite a difference before. The 8's may give you a lot of sidewall bag when pressure is dropped?
I run 10's and have not had a problem but I think that it would logically be easier to roll a bead off on 10's than 8's.
If ya ever plan on going external beadlocks I would use 8's
I also run spacers but if I could get the same width with offset rims I would prefer it! Spacers can be a PITA when you are hot and muddy and you have to take em off. Even with a rattle gun it is just an extra thing ya have to do.
N*A*M wrote:i would get 8's, and have them flipped
less chance of rolling outside bead and you'll get the width
I agree

I run flipped 8s and they give me about 3 inches over a normal 8. No need to run spacers. (I have only about 1/2" BS)
Plus the benfits of better bagging at low PSI and having the inner bead on the outside (less chance of rolling a bead)

Cost about $60 per rim

Shorty40 wrote:N*A*M wrote:i would get 8's, and have them flipped
less chance of rolling outside bead and you'll get the width
I agree![]()
I run flipped 8s and they give me about 3 inches over a normal 8. No need to run spacers. (I have only about 1/2" BS)
Plus the benfits of better bagging at low PSI and having the inner bead on the outside (less chance of rolling a bead)![]()
Cost about $60 per rim
Who did that for you ?
----HillBilly Engineering----
Re: 15x10's vs 8's with spaces
MQ080 wrote:Obviously i want track increased, what would be the best way to go?...
GU diffs !!
[color=orange] BESTY [/color]
GU4800
GU4800
Where to start?
Living in backwards Queensland, I believe spacers are automatically a no-no! Then there are the concentricity and balance issues, but we don't need to go there.
Next are the legalities of increasing the track of the vehicle - again, Queensland has unique ideas, so where you are is almost certainly different.
Increasing the track can have interesting effects on steering geometry (scrub radius) and the forces on wheel bearings and other suspension components (increases the effective length of the lever arm - this is probably not as critical on a live axle.) The steering issues can be countered with an increase in the tyre diameter, so the track increase may be beneficial.
Gotta agree the 8's reduce the risk of rolling the bead.
There goes another 2 cents...
Scott
Living in backwards Queensland, I believe spacers are automatically a no-no! Then there are the concentricity and balance issues, but we don't need to go there.
Next are the legalities of increasing the track of the vehicle - again, Queensland has unique ideas, so where you are is almost certainly different.
Increasing the track can have interesting effects on steering geometry (scrub radius) and the forces on wheel bearings and other suspension components (increases the effective length of the lever arm - this is probably not as critical on a live axle.) The steering issues can be countered with an increase in the tyre diameter, so the track increase may be beneficial.
Gotta agree the 8's reduce the risk of rolling the bead.
There goes another 2 cents...
Scott
MY45 wrote:Shorty40 wrote:Cost about $60 per rim
Who did that for you ?
Adman wrote:I was gonna ask the same question.
Mick did them or me before him and Gonads started M&M Custom. I imagine they would be around that price still (no guarentees

Either ring Mick or Matt from M&M or PM Mick on the board (Mickbj42)

Shorty40 wrote:MY45 wrote:Shorty40 wrote:Cost about $60 per rim
Who did that for you ?Adman wrote:I was gonna ask the same question.
Mick did them or me before him and Gonads started M&M Custom. I imagine they would be around that price still (no guarentees) as my brother got this done a little while ago for about the same price.
Either ring Mick or Matt from M&M or PM Mick on the board (Mickbj42)
How did they balance after that?
MQ080 wrote:How did they balance after that?
With the 35 BFGs they balanced perfect

When I put the 38 TSLs on they were pretty bad, but that was the tyres. Lachlan at ORI balanced the TSLs. When I drove home you could not tell the difference between the radial 35s and the bias ply 38s

To this day I have not had a drama on or offroad with these rims.
And no one is going to complain about 6 inches extra width for around $240 all up


i hate spacers!
i've got a set of 3 inch alloy wheel spacers and on the second time i used them one came loose, then next time i used them i did them up extra tight actually snapped an extion bit on the socket and then drove around for a while and checked them every 30 min or so and then just 10 min after i last checked them i hear bang crash smash and my car is leaning heavily to one side and then i see my wheel and hub go flying down the road, lucky it was a dirt road at cruiser park and not a steep hill or bitumen.
i've got a set of 3 inch alloy wheel spacers and on the second time i used them one came loose, then next time i used them i did them up extra tight actually snapped an extion bit on the socket and then drove around for a while and checked them every 30 min or so and then just 10 min after i last checked them i hear bang crash smash and my car is leaning heavily to one side and then i see my wheel and hub go flying down the road, lucky it was a dirt road at cruiser park and not a steep hill or bitumen.
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