why no flex

Post by **big lux** » Sat Oct 10, 2009 12:10 pm

ok i have 4 inch king springs all round rear flexs great(as all trolls do)
in the front i have bbm twist and pivot front radius arms (3rds productions ones) no sway bar, adjustable panard rod and big shockies this front has cost me about 2k so far and still no flex what am i doin wrong?

Post by **bogged** » Sat Oct 10, 2009 3:37 pm

GQ fronts dont flex without spending lots.

have a search, plenty of threads on it.

Post by **big lux** » Sat Oct 10, 2009 3:46 pm

i thought $1600 for a pair of arms was lots in my world neways lol. maybe i need different springs i can jump on my bull bar nd the front stil barley moves maybe my gq realy wants to be a race car lol.

Post by **Micka** » Sat Oct 10, 2009 4:53 pm

It doesn't flex in the front cause its a Patrol.

Search for Superior Super Flex arms or read any threads/posts by 1madengineer. His design influence in the Superflex arms has given Patrols some awesome front flex.

Post by **neilpatrol** » Sat Oct 10, 2009 6:42 pm

I'd sell the dropped radius arms mate or u will be putting a new chassis under your patrol, the 3rds production/bbm swiveling radius arms bend and tear them apart.

Post by **bogged** » Sat Oct 10, 2009 6:49 pm

Micka wrote:It doesn't flex in the front cause its a Patrol.

Search for Superior Super Flex arms or read any threads/posts by 1madengineer. His design influence in the Superflex arms has given Patrols some awesome front flex.

As Micka said
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/phpBB2/ftopic117558.php

How much flex do you require?

Post by **mud_runner_GQ** » Sat Oct 10, 2009 7:07 pm

i spent heaps less then that and get good flex.
many don't like them but i got a X-link and flexy coils, and the front works great

Post by **bogged** » Sat Oct 10, 2009 7:31 pm

I must have just been lucky.. I just had OME shocks and springs.... was enough flex for me, I have a large wang.

Post by **mud_runner_GQ** » Sat Oct 10, 2009 7:45 pm

bogged wrote:I must have just been lucky.. I just had OME shocks and springs.... was enough flex for me, I have a large wang.

my patrol used to flex like that with the same setup. BUT my radius arm bushes were ducked.....
replaced the bushes, and lost all the front end flex

Post by **darnoldrs** » Sat Oct 10, 2009 11:03 pm

drop boxes in the front and heavier rear springs. Leave the rear sway bar in with extensions to suit the lift but remove the front one.
refitting the rear sway bar has made mine better and i hope to have drop boxes in this weekend.
Mine is a GU with 4" kings and i think stuffed radious arm bushes.
What were the part numbers of the springs?
Do you have a picture of the x link set up??

Post by **turps** » Sun Oct 11, 2009 12:03 am

Drop boxes will have a marginal benefit. All your really doing is fixing the caster problem. The benefit you do get though is making the arm flatter and takes alittle bind out of the pin bush in the chassi.

Panhard rods prevent a surprising amount of flex.

Post by **big lux** » Sun Oct 11, 2009 10:38 am

got bored last nite while drinking beer and thought ima put my car apart so riped off the fron tyres pullud out the coils and the shocks and put stands under the chassie. found i can get the front diff to go on stupid angles without anything binding up. decision weigh the front end and get custom and higher coils made up goin 6 inch while im at it. does any1 do a bolt in raised shock tower for it? dont mind hole sawing the gaurd.

Post by **mud_runner_GQ** » Sun Oct 11, 2009 1:22 pm

here you go.

Post by **biggsy** » Sun Oct 11, 2009 1:37 pm

Superior front flex radius arms... And you only need the flex arm for the passenger side.. (if already have new radius arms)

Post by **big lux** » Sun Oct 11, 2009 1:40 pm

any chance of a pic from the back of the diff to please champ. what did the x link set u back? Im thinkn about getting my defects cleared then jus turning my car into a trailer car and going hard core as i will be getting a gu patrol ute for a company car soon and in qld u dont have to get a yearly inspection long as u dnt sell it. what are all the comp boys running in the frnt?

Post by **Micka** » Sun Oct 11, 2009 3:19 pm

If you are going to trailer the thing around then a 3 link and panhard is the best option IMO. Just do away with the Nissan Radius arms all together. Throwing shit loads of coin at them will still not make them flex anywhere near as good as a 3 link and panhard.

Post by **darnoldrs** » Sun Oct 11, 2009 6:50 pm

turps wrote: Panhard rods prevent a surprising amount of flex.

How do you figure this????
mud_runner_GQ
So that is an X link. Thanks for that. I have considered doing that but a bit of work involved just for a daily driven work car. They do appear to work very well thou.

Post by **bogged** » Sun Oct 11, 2009 6:59 pm

darnoldrs wrote:
turps wrote: Panhard rods prevent a surprising amount of flex.
How do you figure this????

its been common knowledge for years.
Thats why the Ti GQ had a swaybar release lever next to the steering column.

Post by **big lux** » Sun Oct 11, 2009 7:45 pm

i think sum1 there has there wires crossed he said panhard rod not sway bars. i have the sway bar release on mine but ive remove my sway bars anyway. is the ti a good modle.

Post by **bogged** » Sun Oct 11, 2009 8:59 pm

big lux wrote:i think sum1 there has there wires crossed he said panhard rod not sway bars. i have the sway bar release on mine but ive remove my sway bars anyway. is the ti a good modle.

too muhc drinking

Post by **big lux** » Sun Oct 11, 2009 9:17 pm

all good jus wanted to clear dat up b4 the kicking nd biting started lol.

Post by **Harb** » Sun Oct 11, 2009 9:27 pm

X links are def a cheap way to go to loosen the front of a GQ up....

Mine works a treat......

here is a pic when I first put it in........was a wagon back then.

Post by **turps** » Sun Oct 11, 2009 10:24 pm

darnoldrs wrote:
turps wrote: Panhard rods prevent a surprising amount of flex.
How do you figure this????

Actually I may have gotton things mixed up. Max droop is affected by the panhard rod. I had to disconnect mine to get the front to drop slighty more to get my springs in. When the car was on a hoist.

Never flexed the front with out the panhard. So that was an error.

Post by **big lux** » Sun Oct 11, 2009 10:58 pm

yea im abit lost at what to do atm think im goin to change over to 6 inch coils as soft as possible all round and hope im happy with that i dnt realy wna spend anymre on suspension as its comeing out of my frnt n rear air locker fund. O 1 other question jus random if i was to buy a gu wuld all my adjustable arms panards coils springs shockies ect ect fit into it?

Post by **Suspension Stuff** » Sun Oct 11, 2009 11:50 pm

The reason why the Patrols don't flex at the front is because of the radius arm bushes.

Picture the drivers side axle dropped into a whole, the axle will rotate forward as the radius arms drop. Then picture the passenger side on a rock, the axle will rotate backwards. As you may know the axle housing is made out of steel so it can't rotate against itself. What has to give is the radius arm bushes.

Therefore the best method for flex is stuffed radius arm bushes or Superiors superflex arms or the X Link, a 5 link or soft (flexy bushes) to replace the stiffer Nissan bushes. The worst thing you can do is to replace your bushes with some poly bushes.

We have found that our 3" lift Patrols using rubber castor correction bushes will out flex a 5" lift Patrol using poly bushes by 6-12 inches. This is using the same rear shocks. The rubber castor correction bushes are very durable. (Flexy bushes on the other hand won't last as well for now, when I have some cash lying around I reckon we can get them durable and flexy but for now this is about 20 on the to do list.)

Having said all this, don't bother getting softer front coils, it won't help a great deal with flex but it will definitely make your ride unsafe on and off road.

When it comes to a 5 link or X link, the vehicle becomes more unstable and a bit more sloppy. My Jeep has a 5 link with short arms. I have found this setup to work really well. The short arms and shocks (same length shock as a 3" lift Patrol) limit the flex and coupled with stiffer front coils it is very stable.

I am now building up a patrol on a budget so hopefully I can test out a couple of theories to get the balance right between flex and stability.

Shane

Post by **darnoldrs** » Mon Oct 12, 2009 8:11 am

turps wrote:
darnoldrs wrote:
turps wrote: Panhard rods prevent a surprising amount of flex.
How do you figure this????
Actually I may have gotton things mixed up. Max droop is affected by the panhard rod. I had to disconnect mine to get the front to drop slighty more to get my springs in. When the car was on a hoist.

Never flexed the front with out the panhard. So that was an error.

Now that is all making more sense to me. The panhard will limit droop because it is pushing the diff sideways and will bind up the radious arms.

My concern with an X link is about road stability and also stability if you have to drive along the side of a hill ect. I guess everything is a compromise somewhere. also spring rates can be changed then to give less roll since there will be less restriction on twist with the X link.

Post by **young pup** » Sun Dec 13, 2009 10:04 pm

Micka wrote:It doesn't flex in the front cause its a Patrol.

Search for Superior Super Flex arms or read any threads/posts by 1madengineer. His design influence in the Superflex arms has given Patrols some awesome front flex.

ive just put these raius arms in my patrol build up they are great... i just need longer shocks and some slinky coils... any one know whats a good 4" slinky coil??

Post by **big lux** » Sun Dec 13, 2009 10:15 pm

dobsions suspension do custom coils for a good price

Post by **SIM79** » Mon Dec 14, 2009 5:49 am

big lux wrote:dobsions suspension do custom coils for a good price

X2 Flexy coil from suspension stuff

Post by **pinkfloyddsotm** » Mon Dec 14, 2009 9:31 pm

Suspension Stuff wrote:The reason why the Patrols don't flex at the front is because of the radius arm bushes.

Picture the drivers side axle dropped into a whole, the axle will rotate forward as the radius arms drop. Then picture the passenger side on a rock, the axle will rotate backwards. As you may know the axle housing is made out of steel so it can't rotate against itself. What has to give is the radius arm bushes.

Therefore the best method for flex is stuffed radius arm bushes or Superiors superflex arms or the X Link, a 5 link or soft (flexy bushes) to replace the stiffer Nissan bushes. The worst thing you can do is to replace your bushes with some poly bushes.

We have found that our 3" lift Patrols using rubber castor correction bushes will out flex a 5" lift Patrol using poly bushes by 6-12 inches. This is using the same rear shocks. The rubber castor correction bushes are very durable. (Flexy bushes on the other hand won't last as well for now, when I have some cash lying around I reckon we can get them durable and flexy but for now this is about 20 on the to do list.)

Having said all this, don't bother getting softer front coils, it won't help a great deal with flex but it will definitely make your ride unsafe on and off road.

When it comes to a 5 link or X link, the vehicle becomes more unstable and a bit more sloppy. My Jeep has a 5 link with short arms. I have found this setup to work really well. The short arms and shocks (same length shock as a 3" lift Patrol) limit the flex and coupled with stiffer front coils it is very stable.

I am now building up a patrol on a budget so hopefully I can test out a couple of theories to get the balance right between flex and stability.

Shane

do you know what sorta rubber the xlink uses ?

Outer Limits 4x4 Board

why no flex

why no flex

Re: why no flex

Who is online