pressure oil

[harlequin]

Hi all have high oil pressure in 2h replaced the relief valve down below near the steering pump with a longer one off eBay but it still sits at the top of the last white segment on the gauge. There is some oil leaking from around the oil filter and onto the alternator if i tighten it up more I am afraid it might blow off . should i replace the relief valve on the oil filter as well? I read some where that you can cut a coil from the spring or drill an extra hole in the valve will this work. You would think the oil pressure would get lower with wear since this is not the case could it be crap blocking some galleries would a flush do the trick? hope you can help thanks andy

[Shadow]

very common problem with 2H's

It is the main reliefe valve on the lower drivers side of the timing case that is not working which causes the problem.

The oil Filter pressure relief valve, located on the oil filter bracket(attached to the oil cooler housing) is not the problem your having.

The problem is that the bore of the reliefe valve wears, which makes the plunger kick slightly and jam. You can have some success in fixing the problem by lightly linishing the bore of the relief valve, get a 10mm timber dowel, wrap it in wret&dry (200ish?) and lightly sand the bore.

The other issue is that the oil pressure gets behind the relief valve, which means there is pressure either side of the plunger, which of course means it doesnt move the plunger.

I havent tried this yet but I think adding more holes in the side of the plunger will allow the oil pressure to bleed away from behind the plunger, and allow the reliefe valve to work?

Also, dont use valvoline filters. I have had 2 fail due to the very high pressure, where-as I have not had any genuine or ryco filters fail.

[harlequin]

hello shadow thanks for the advice i am using ryco i gave search a go for oil pressure and came up with some things to try, so did it today, removed top and bottom relief valves and honed the bores with 500 grit emery on a dowel, replaced the bottom valve with a new longer one but the top was different so had to put the original back in. I then flushed the motor twice the first time with a mix of oil, transmission fluid and kero it made the mix a little less viscous and with this the oil pressure stayed around half at idle and 3/4 under revs when i put back the new oil 15/40 filter ryco the oil pressure went back to the top again so none of the valves or flush worked. Heres my question should i cut some coils of the lower or upper spring or both or should i just run less viscous oil ,thinner oil sounds easier but not sure if it will shag the 2h any advice will help thanks all andy

[Shadow]

i dont think it has anything to do with blockages in your engine. They will do exactly the same thing aftetr a full rebuild. The only guaranteed solution is a new timing case from toyota (About $1000).

Obviously we dont want to spent $1000 on a 2H, so we must fix what we've got.

My pressure is high for about 5 minutes(150PSI+) then it drops down to about 75psi at 2500rpm. which is ideal.

So I think it is definantly the oil pressure relief valve (the main one, not the filter one.)

Some people have had success from drilling a hole in the timing case itself, to let pressure from behind the relife plunger bleed back to the sump, but this must be done with the timing case removed unfortunately.

You could try drilling a hole in the Plug, this would tell you if it is the plunger jaming in the bore, or if its pressure behind the plunger causing the problem.

I want to do this myself, but havent got around to it. Will need to source another plug before I do it.

If it proves to be the problem, a simple fix could be to run a hose between the plug and back to the sump. Would mean you dont need to remove the timing case which is a big job in itself.