ls1 into a fzj 80 5speed

[daniel1]

hi there just wanting to know if anyone has put a ls1 into there 80 series 5 speed and how straight forward it was and any problems cheers daniel

[killalux]

Go to marks adpters web site, they have all the bellhousing adapters, bolt in engine mount kit, extractors etc.
I can do a plug in wiring harness to get the electrics sorted.

They are quite a straight forward swap.

Steve

[Kitika]

I haven't had any problems so far in putting one into my hzj80. Very straight forward.

[crankycruiser]

I used the marks kit and it took me 2 days to have it in and running including pulling my 1fz out

[crankycruiser]

Took this outta my buildup thread. Its basically all the small things u find along the way that no one tells ya bout!


Radiator hoses, I used:
Top - Cut and shut a hose off a petrol Datto 720
Bottom - Is a bottom (i think) hose off a EB falcon

Intake:
I used a factory pipe off a VU ute (i originally thought it was off my mates grange, but he informed me its off his ute) then plumbed it into the 60 series air cleaner top that i modded.

Wiring:
Wasnt too bad, it did basically plug in, biggest hassle is the oil pressure swich wire extensions and the temp guage
Dont forget to plug the crank angle sender in! its hidden in behind the starter motor, very easy to miss.
Dont forget to order the VSS (vehicle speed sensor) interface, so that the ls1 computer knows wat speed u are doing.. helps with fuel economy etc.. im pretty sure its not listed on Marks website. (prolly is i just missed it?)

Temp gauge:
they supply u an adaptor to fit the bigger 80 sender into the Chevys smaller hole... babow... not a hope in hell of it fitting... I scrounged round my shed and found a sender out of my skylines old motor (rb30) that was the same resistance as the toyota one. 2K ohms

Clutch slave cyl:
U need to space it away from the gear box using a washer.. otherwise it gouges into the side of the bell housing adapter. If u dont do it and try to put the motor on the box u could damage the slave cyl as i nearly did...

Throttle Cable: U can use the std one u just need to build a simple bracket for it, also u need to pull the stop off the floor that lives under the acc pedal, it prevents full throttle.

Sump Pickup:
If u change to the rear sump then have a good look at the pickup where it goes into the oil pump... the new one had a indent all the way around where the o ring sits, which made it suck air and hence no oil! O fixed this by getting a thicker o ring that fitted snugly on the pick up where the original o ring should sit and then put the existing o ring above that. The way the pick up bolted to the pump was slightly different so this worked well.. time will tell if it lasts, but i think it wil be fine! also make sure u pay attention to ur pressure guage! I just figured mine wasnt working, stupid stupid me... If in doubt pull the pressure sender out and wind it over with the plug leads off just to make sure it has pressure!

Fuel Pressure Reg:

No biggy here.. the high pressure line feedin from the tank goes in one of the 3 holes at the top, the line feeding the motor also comes out one of those 3 holes (doesnt matter wat order they are in) and the return line comes of the bottom of the unit (opposite the adjuster)

Fuel pressure should be run at 58PSI

Only big problem with the gear i was supplied from marks was the plug at the computer end of the loom.. as i said earlier one of the pins wasnt pushed fully into the plug and wasnt making contact, so an injector wasnt firing..

heres the a bit more info in here http://www.offroad80s.com/cranky-wheeli ... 37-30.html[/i]