Have been advised likely water pump issue due to it not being replaced at the 90k service - before I go out and buy one then set upon the sharthouse job of replacing it, could it be anything else...???
Last year I replaced the viscous fan hub due to over heating(thoroughly cleaned radiator at the same time) - replaced with an after market job... Last week it starts getting hot, fan turns by hand but with some resistance so figure this is OK... Pulled thermostat out and tested, seems OK - left out to see if it made a difference, temp still climbing but not as bad...
Any thoughts before I shell out a couple of green ones and a lot of blood, sweat and tears...???
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MK Triton overheating...
Moderator: -Scott-
MK Triton overheating...
I wish my lawn was EMO, then it would cut itself...
There may be several issues here, each compounding the problem but not being the actual cause.
Water pump - This is unlikely to be the cause unless it is cagged up with rust etc. If the water passages are partially blocked, it would pump less water. This would be less noticeable at low revs when the losses would be proportionately a lot less. Does it overheat more at high revs? If so, this indicates a blockage somewhere in the water passages. Maybe the cam drive belt is loose, allwoing the water pump to slip. Remove the cam belt inspection cover port and check the belt for tightness.
Radiator blockage - This is probably the most likely. You did say that you looked at it but you really cannot say until the top & bottom tanks come off and you can rod the tubes through to clean them.
Fan Belt Tension - A silly question, but is the fan belt slipping? You would probably hear it squealing, but maybe not.
Igition timing - a retarded ignition will cause overheating. You may be down a bit on power as well. There probably isn't much you can control with the ignition these days because of electronics, but you can check the timing with a strobe light and see if it is correct.
Lean mixture - If you have an air leak in the intake manifold system, the mixture will be lean, particularly at low revs (maximum vacuum in the manifold. The lean mixture will cause overheating, but at higher revs it will not be as noticeable. Also, the idle will be upset by a lean mixture.
Faulty temperature gauge - Just another thought... where is the gauge needle sitting normally? It should sit roughly in the middle of the range. Of late, it has been rather hot in Melbourne and maybe this is all normal - it may be just warming up a bit. The gauge is not linear - midway on the gauge should correspond to about the thermostat setting (about 85 Deg C), but the red section is probably about 110 Deg C. I have an engine watchdog set up on my Pajero and the temperature moves only the width of the needle from normal running (cool ambient temps) to about 35 Deg C towing my caravan up steep hills. The temperature gauge is not a very accurate instrument.
To sum up. I would probably check the radiator first, then the fan belt tension, tehn air leaks and ignition timing. Lastly, I would then go to the water pump.
Water pump - This is unlikely to be the cause unless it is cagged up with rust etc. If the water passages are partially blocked, it would pump less water. This would be less noticeable at low revs when the losses would be proportionately a lot less. Does it overheat more at high revs? If so, this indicates a blockage somewhere in the water passages. Maybe the cam drive belt is loose, allwoing the water pump to slip. Remove the cam belt inspection cover port and check the belt for tightness.
Radiator blockage - This is probably the most likely. You did say that you looked at it but you really cannot say until the top & bottom tanks come off and you can rod the tubes through to clean them.
Fan Belt Tension - A silly question, but is the fan belt slipping? You would probably hear it squealing, but maybe not.
Igition timing - a retarded ignition will cause overheating. You may be down a bit on power as well. There probably isn't much you can control with the ignition these days because of electronics, but you can check the timing with a strobe light and see if it is correct.
Lean mixture - If you have an air leak in the intake manifold system, the mixture will be lean, particularly at low revs (maximum vacuum in the manifold. The lean mixture will cause overheating, but at higher revs it will not be as noticeable. Also, the idle will be upset by a lean mixture.
Faulty temperature gauge - Just another thought... where is the gauge needle sitting normally? It should sit roughly in the middle of the range. Of late, it has been rather hot in Melbourne and maybe this is all normal - it may be just warming up a bit. The gauge is not linear - midway on the gauge should correspond to about the thermostat setting (about 85 Deg C), but the red section is probably about 110 Deg C. I have an engine watchdog set up on my Pajero and the temperature moves only the width of the needle from normal running (cool ambient temps) to about 35 Deg C towing my caravan up steep hills. The temperature gauge is not a very accurate instrument.
To sum up. I would probably check the radiator first, then the fan belt tension, tehn air leaks and ignition timing. Lastly, I would then go to the water pump.
Bluefreak:
It is not a hydraulic tensioner, or if it is hydraulic, it certainly has no connection to the engine oil system. It is a very powerful, short stroke spring, and if the timing belt is loose, it probably needs retensioning. I expect that this may be the cause for your overheating - the timing belt is probably slipping over the water pump pulley. The tensioner has simply run out of reach and is no longer tensioning the belt.
It is LOVELY job to strip it down and retension the belt, but I would suggest that you do so because depending on who you believe, if the belt skips a few teeth on the cams, you may have major problems with valves hitting pistons. Certainly the 3.5 L engines are this way (interference) and it isn't worth the risk to keep running with a loose belt.
It is not a hydraulic tensioner, or if it is hydraulic, it certainly has no connection to the engine oil system. It is a very powerful, short stroke spring, and if the timing belt is loose, it probably needs retensioning. I expect that this may be the cause for your overheating - the timing belt is probably slipping over the water pump pulley. The tensioner has simply run out of reach and is no longer tensioning the belt.
It is LOVELY job to strip it down and retension the belt, but I would suggest that you do so because depending on who you believe, if the belt skips a few teeth on the cams, you may have major problems with valves hitting pistons. Certainly the 3.5 L engines are this way (interference) and it isn't worth the risk to keep running with a loose belt.
It is a spring loaded, hydraulic dampened tensioner, if its loose enough to allow the water pump to slip, it would have jumped teeth for sure. It wont happen. I would however change the tensioner if there is any flapping of the belt, or any doubt at all. Get your radiator split and cleaned first!date wrote:Bluefreak:
It is not a hydraulic tensioner, or if it is hydraulic, it certainly has no connection to the engine oil system. It is a very powerful, short stroke spring, and if the timing belt is loose, it probably needs retensioning. I expect that this may be the cause for your overheating - the timing belt is probably slipping over the water pump pulley. The tensioner has simply run out of reach and is no longer tensioning the belt.
It is LOVELY job to strip it down and retension the belt, but I would suggest that you do so because depending on who you believe, if the belt skips a few teeth on the cams, you may have major problems with valves hitting pistons. Certainly the 3.5 L engines are this way (interference) and it isn't worth the risk to keep running with a loose belt.
Steve
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