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ifs rears flexing pics please
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
ifs rears flexing pics please
ok i have yous'd the serch funtion but all the threads are to old an dont have pics anymore so could yous please show me some pics of ifs rears flexing in older model luxs cheers
if its got t#ts or tyres your gunna have trouble with it
There better than stock length but over rated for sure, unless you run a very thin/flexible pack and a track bar its not a worthwhile upgrade (RUF is a different story)
Locktup rears are probably the best option and fairly cheapo atm to.
Locktup rears are probably the best option and fairly cheapo atm to.
BOBBED 84' 4Runner 2.8L Chugger
35's, Locker's, High steer, RUF, 4 link rear, Crawler Gears.
35's, Locker's, High steer, RUF, 4 link rear, Crawler Gears.
Well why are you asking IFS rears or lockers, if you can afford lockers do it obviously lockers will get any 4wd further than just rear suspension , just doesnt make much sense to me.optima wrote:locktup is still more then i can aford at the monent
And IFS rears usually cost $400 and Locktup's are $499 thats why i suggested it...
BOBBED 84' 4Runner 2.8L Chugger
35's, Locker's, High steer, RUF, 4 link rear, Crawler Gears.
35's, Locker's, High steer, RUF, 4 link rear, Crawler Gears.
X2 saves smashing every thing under you truck because you can drive it but dont have the clearance4RUNNER_01 wrote:Then try lift and lockers, You'll go heaps further and if set up right it will drive heaps better.STUMPY wrote:Try no lift and lockers, You'll go heaps further and it will drive heaps better.
3.0L turbo diesel, 4" lift, bud's front housing, track assasin cv's, air lokker front + Rear, beadlock'd 37 stickies, high steer, 15.5" travel ranchos, high pinion diff and coils on the rear
I find it hard to believe he'll smash everything under the truck with no lift
Rock sliders, and no lift, put some 35s on it and ruf it and theres your clearance.
Mine has next to no lift and a stock box x member and rarely gets hung up on anything nor does it smash ANYTHING under the truck.
Imo a truck should be built, with lockers first, then suspension, then tyres.
A locked truck with no flex on 31at's will outdrive the sickest looking city gutter jumper haha
Rock sliders, and no lift, put some 35s on it and ruf it and theres your clearance.
Mine has next to no lift and a stock box x member and rarely gets hung up on anything nor does it smash ANYTHING under the truck.
Imo a truck should be built, with lockers first, then suspension, then tyres.
A locked truck with no flex on 31at's will outdrive the sickest looking city gutter jumper haha
Last edited by berad on Sat Nov 21, 2009 10:44 am, edited 1 time in total.
BBP Offroad
Boondall Backyard Performance
They call me the MR. throw cash at shiz til its comp specccccc
Boondall Backyard Performance
They call me the MR. throw cash at shiz til its comp specccccc
Ifs rears are not $400, nor are they worth fitting, they are sh!t imo, a stock 2inch lift pack with them fiddled with will out flex a ifs pack of 4 leaves that are a billionty mm thick.4RUNNER_01 wrote:Well why are you asking IFS rears or lockers, if you can afford lockers do it obviously lockers will get any 4wd further than just rear suspension , just doesnt make much sense to me.optima wrote:locktup is still more then i can aford at the monent
And IFS rears usually cost $400 and Locktup's are $499 thats why i suggested it...
BBP Offroad
Boondall Backyard Performance
They call me the MR. throw cash at shiz til its comp specccccc
Boondall Backyard Performance
They call me the MR. throw cash at shiz til its comp specccccc
Yeh you wont if you stay away from the rocks or only stick to easy/ medium tracks...berad wrote:I find it hard to believe he'll smash everything under the truck with no lift
Rock sliders, and no lift, put some 35s on it and ruf it and theres your clearance.
Mine has next to no lift and a stock box x member and rarely gets hung up on anything nor does it smash ANYTHING under the truck.
Imo a truck should be built, with lockers first, then suspension, then tyres.
A locked truck with no flex on 31at's will outdrive the sickest looking city gutter jumper haha
You will eventually hit the steering arm, sills (if no side rails), back of transfer (make a stronger guard or use lowprofile crossmember), tail shafts, front diff pumpkin (make/ buy a guard)
I'n talking about a stock truck with no lift and lockers as you said, it will get damaged.
But only my opinion, depends on the tracks you intend on driving
Brad
3.0L turbo diesel, 4" lift, bud's front housing, track assasin cv's, air lokker front + Rear, beadlock'd 37 stickies, high steer, 15.5" travel ranchos, high pinion diff and coils on the rear
As i said rock sliders, and a x member upgrade, sure it will get hung up more often than the truck having 3-4inch of lift, but telling me 4inchs of lift clears the chassis/spring hangers etc more often than not in the terrain your talking about is a bit far fetched.
Extended shackles with using ifs springs will get hung up on more.
Tie rod, will get taken out with or without lift, asking for trouble going into that stuff with an oem arm.
or pitman arm/ j arm assy, once again 4 inchs more clearance is a kick in the pants but odds are in your favrour having a tyre , diff and spring perch to help protect it.
All in good fun, nothing better than a good debate haha.
Extended shackles with using ifs springs will get hung up on more.
Tie rod, will get taken out with or without lift, asking for trouble going into that stuff with an oem arm.
or pitman arm/ j arm assy, once again 4 inchs more clearance is a kick in the pants but odds are in your favrour having a tyre , diff and spring perch to help protect it.
All in good fun, nothing better than a good debate haha.
BBP Offroad
Boondall Backyard Performance
They call me the MR. throw cash at shiz til its comp specccccc
Boondall Backyard Performance
They call me the MR. throw cash at shiz til its comp specccccc
Back to the original quote its definitely better to have both but there is a lot of variation by the time you beef up the under body to cop a flogging you may as well have bought a dropped spring hanger, extended shackles, IFS rears, RUF(but flat springs are the go), Long shocks and High steer then do any tracks you want without damage (with appropriate driving)4RUNNER_01 wrote:Then try lift and lockers, You'll go heaps further and if set up right it will drive heaps better.STUMPY wrote:Try no lift and lockers, You'll go heaps further and it will drive heaps better.
After you buy Lockers ofcoarse
only saying this to stir ya's all up but you all know its true!
BOBBED 84' 4Runner 2.8L Chugger
35's, Locker's, High steer, RUF, 4 link rear, Crawler Gears.
35's, Locker's, High steer, RUF, 4 link rear, Crawler Gears.
4runner_01
its just id rather spend money on lock rights then flash suspention if there is a cheaper alternitive for suspention allthough boofs green lux does work verry well nice lux mate
as to 400 for ifs springs i can get them cheaper then that but like i siad is it really worth it an it sounds like its not cheers for the help fellas
Well why are you asking IFS rears or lockers, if you can afford lockers do it obviously lockers will get any 4wd further than just rear suspension , just doesnt make much sense to me.
And IFS rears usually cost $400 and Locktup's are $499 thats why i suggested it
its just id rather spend money on lock rights then flash suspention if there is a cheaper alternitive for suspention allthough boofs green lux does work verry well nice lux mate
as to 400 for ifs springs i can get them cheaper then that but like i siad is it really worth it an it sounds like its not cheers for the help fellas
if its got t#ts or tyres your gunna have trouble with it
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