What type of head gasket for a 200RWK td42???

[Z()LTAN]

340rwkw?

i think not

140 or maby 240...

But not 340 lol

[clm434]

^^^^Sig line anyone^^^^

[turps]

340rwkw?

i think not

140 or maby 240...

But not 340 lol

I agree. That's a 700% increase over stock. I am sure there is something else under the bonnet if that's what the dyno says.

Or tell the bloke his dyno is slighty out.

[gu town]

I agree. That's a 700% increase over stock. I am sure there is something else under the bonnet if that's what the dyno says.

Or tell the bloke his dyno is slighty out.

or maybe he has another td42 mounted in the back???????? im under the impression you're hard pressed to get 240rwkw out of them. let alone 340. even 340 hp is a bit much at 253kw.

[marko]

Hi all as states above im after the knowledge of all those few people who have 170-200+RWKW TD42s and are obviously running high boost. What type of head gasket are you using? I just put the standard on in mine when i re-built the engine and i have just realized that the gasket is leaking out the side of the head under the intake manifold. The engine hasn't even done 1000ks yet but was running 22.5psi

cheers Ash

So is it leaking combustion gases or/and coolant. What is the liner protrusion set at? Who did the machine work? Are all parts genuine? Those liners don't look to healthy from those pics

[OPBUNDY]

I would not mind betting the liners have been decked to block height????????

[wrksux]

yeh genuine nissan for sure mate of mine has a gq with 340 rwkw 4.2 diesel all nissan gaskets holds fine

Farkin bullsheet

untill I see dyno sheet ect I still think its unpossible!

[marko]

I would not mind betting the liners have been decked to block height????????

My thoughts exactly Russ. No crush on gasket

[garth]

OPBUNDY

PostPosted: Tue Nov 24, 2009 10:36 am
I would not mind betting the liners have been decked to block height????????

'deck to block height' is pretty standard practise as the quality head gaskets have decent metal ringed gaskets to suit.
But from experience if you want to run 25psi + boost - without leaking issues, a 3 thou liner protrusion and slight over torque of head bolts plus a good/genuine gasket puts to bed any leak dramas.

Any updates on the build Ash?

regards garth

[smash250]

Ok as far as updates go, i havnt done anything for the past few weeks ran out of $$, however should be getting back into it tomorrow.

To my knowledge the block was decked then the liners were installed, the liners arnt flush with the block as when i was cleaning the block up with my razar blade scraper you can catch the blade on all the liners. The head gasket was not genuine and the bolts were not over torqued.


This time, i have just had the head re-vamped and new pre-comp chambers installed(pick it up in the morning) I am using a Genuine head gasket. Also i will be putting it all together dry, I am also re-tapping all the block threads and blown them out before i start. I am also thinking about putting thin High tensile washers on under the head bolts to stop them from binding up on the head casting. I am also going to over tourque all the head bolts 10-15% and yes i have got new head bolts as well.

If anyone thinks i need to know anything else let us know

Cheers Ash

[garth]

Gudday Ash

sounds sweet, you can put 'never seize' under head bolt flanges to stop binding its cheaper, maybe copper spray on gaskets? (it also helps to indicate any weepage) other than that ........keep it all clean,

Then run for a while while taking it easy, then re-torque head bolts with over torque.

some have other ways of doin it.......but that's what works for me

I get my extractor custom graphite ringed gaskets this morn so will be hopefully solving that problem.

What turbine AR did you end up using? the lower the AR the higher the back pressure in the manifold, especially with a 71mm compressor wheel!

regards Garth

[KiwiBacon]

What turbine AR did you end up using? the lower the AR the higher the back pressure in the manifold, especially with a 71mm compressor wheel!

regards Garth

Small A/R housings aren't the problem many expect them to be.
I have a T25 with a 0.49 A/R exhaust housing on a 3.9L diesel. Below 2000rpm I can pull more boost than backpressure.

[garth]

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobyga ... ation.html

its all here......lower AR which is 'geared' to spin comp wheel quicker/harder = higher EGT's and more pressure in ex man.

T25 is a far cry from T30 with 71mm comp wheel.......and with a shit load of fuel to burn watch the EGTs climb...

if he's got the A/R-0.64 its the same as mine and lotsa fun to drive!

regards

[Z()LTAN]

its the .64 im pretty sure guys

[KiwiBacon]

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobyga ... ation.html

its all here......lower AR which is 'geared' to spin comp wheel quicker/harder = higher EGT's and more pressure in ex man.

T25 is a far cry from T30 with 71mm comp wheel.......and with a shit load of fuel to burn watch the EGTs climb...

if he's got the A/R-0.64 its the same as mine and lotsa fun to drive!

regards

Spinning the compressor faster results in more boost and lower EGT's everywhere but high rpm. If you're building a high rpm screamer, then by all means go for a bigger turbine housing. The closer you push peak boost and torque to the rev limit the more power you make.
But that doesn't make a useful 4wd motor.

[smash250]

Hey guys, been busy busy today!

I have the 0.64AR housing.

I spent most of the morning and some of he afternoon re-tapping the block threads and i must say that there was a lot of shit to come out and was most certainly a contributing factor to the head leaking, as it probably never got to the correct torque level.

I then spent the rest of the arvo picking up The head from the machine shop, and they told me that over the pre-comp chambers the head was a little higher, because when they did there first pass it never hit any ov the pre-comps.......so that also would have contributed to the head leaking the first time.

any who im still plodding away just jumped on the pc to check posts before i put the head on, just cleaning everything up nice and oil free now


ill post some pics later.

cheers Ash

[garth]

If you're building a high rpm screamer, then by all means go for a bigger turbine housing.

that was the idea....

But that doesn't make a useful 4wd motor.

agreed - this setup would never win a 'crawling' event, but thats not what mine was designed for.
The power comes on hard at 1900rpm upwards and will rev hard. As I have said before each person has their own application, the GT3071R suits me......

you still got the same air box ash?

regards

[smash250]

Nope got rid of the air box all together Garth, The air box is only rated to 130-135kw which was no where near enough flow, So i have gone to a K&N Air pod in the engine bay. I dont have much room left in the engine bay so i am limited to what i can do.

[garth]

yeah it looks pretty tight under there. I ran a pod set up drawing from inside the engine bay for about 12 months, when I finally hooked up the 4" snorkel the EGT's when under load at slow speed came down considerably....
These things are a work in progress eh? dunno how you find time with the comp truck aswell! my missus would have divorced me long ago ha ha

be interesting to see how it goes now, what advance/fuel setting did you end up using?

regards garth

[smash250]

yeah it looks pretty tight under there. I ran a pod set up drawing from inside the engine bay for about 12 months, when I finally hooked up the 4" snorkel the EGT's when under load at slow speed came down considerably....
These things are a work in progress eh? dunno how you find time with the comp truck aswell! my missus would have divorced me long ago ha ha

be interesting to see how it goes now, what advance/fuel setting did you end up using?

regards garth

Lol my my missus is a bit over it all, cant wait until i dont have to work on the GU, working one the comp truck is enough however that pretty much set up so i dont have to do much on that unless i break it. next year im putting Hydro Assist steer on it and probably coil overs all round but the money tree will have to be pretty big and strong if that is to happen!

Not sure what the timing is set at i know its a little advanced, Matt from United fuel injection has done my tuning so far.

Ash

[uzdnabuzd]

Hey ash how much boost you plan on running? Did you decompress the head?

Why did you put a high volume oil pump in?

Cheers

[smash250]

Well, Job Done! Been a long day, thanks to Tom(Z()latan) for coming round to give us a hand in the Arvo. We just took it for a test drive and it is going like a rocket again. Its got a bit of a weird turbo noise though, sounds like a supercharger but i think its more than likely a hose not sealed or the intake manifold might not have sealed properly. the Boost controller is playing up again as it is boosting well over 30PSI so cant put the foot right into it, got to keep backing off. I Think Z()latan was imprest at the pick up it has when your sitting at 100km on the highway and you put your foot into it. we even turned the gas on and gave it a bash, bloody hell talk about boost response, 0 to off the gauge 30PSI+++ almost instantly. Major down side to all this is the fuel usage, we just did 35km, when i left home it had a full tank of fuel and the gauge was reading past the full mark, when we got home from our test drive the gauge was half way in the first quarter. im going to drive it for a couple of weeks to see how it all goes then will look at getting it tuned to suite more economy hahaha. Will put some pics up tomorrow night.


Ash

[smash250]

Hey ash how much boost you plan on running? Did you decompress the head?

Why did you put a high volume oil pump in?

Cheers

No i did not decompress the head and boost is about 30PSI at the moment but will be turning it back to about 22-25PSI

Oil pump so i had more pressure to squire more oil out of the oil squirter so to keep the pistons cooler mate. but lot of stuffing around with the turbo to make it work.

cheers Ash

[garth]

Good shit boys, great to hear your happy with it...

That turbo/supercharger noise is normal for that turbo. I was warned when i chose it that they are very loud and a snorkel makes it even better/worse ...i quite like it.

Not quite the best way to run in a head gasket! but after all the work its hard not to eh?
I used the 'turbo smart' boost controler with the external 38mm gate and its very stable. (with gate set at 15psi + 15psi on valve) Some valves can cause bad spiking especially at the 30 psi range and cause all sorts of drama.
The boost controllers them selves make a hissing noise also so I have mine wrapped in a rag under the dash.

How are the egt's/smoke on spool up in 4th and 5th gear? or does the LPG help with a complete burn?

good luck with the testing

[Z()LTAN]

Cheers for all your help in this thread Garth,

We ran in the head properly to begin with, normal heat up to op temp then a good cool down.

Hes getting waste gate flutter with that GFB controller i think, the boost needle sometimes vibrates and you can hear the exhaust buffeting out the waste.

Im quite surprised how well it drives actually, its completely different to my turbo setup where you cant drive it sedately as at 850rpm its got 2psi boost and as soon as you touch the throttle it goes over to 15-20 psi, at speed it sits around 17 psi...

With ashs, you can keep the boost low with good throttle control.

[smash250]

EGTs are good, little too good i think, dont seem to get over 200-250 mark, deisel smoke is pretty good at 4,5th gear get a bit more if you hit the aneroid at a lower gear though. currently the Aneroid(on boost) is set to 20PSI so you can still drive the car around with out too much boost, but once that Aneroide comes in unless the boost controler is set up properly the boost goes well off the scale and would proberly go to 40-50PSI.

I am going to wind the boost controler back today to try and get it to about 22PSI, I have a 18PSI waste gate, the closer you can get your waste gate to your running Boost the better control you will have as a whole.

Garth I do like the sound of the turbo, but i would think it would get a bitt anoying on a long trip at 100Km/ph when you are constanty under boost.

cheers Ash

[uzdnabuzd]

If it is fluttering sounds like compressor surge!!

Wont really harm you r motor as it is diesel, but it will sure as hell stuff your turbo.

[KiwiBacon]

EGTs are good, little too good i think, dont seem to get over 200-250 mark,

You've got a big problem if that's all you're reading. Can you get a handheld K type meter to check the probe? A lot of multimeters do that these days.

[smash250]

If it is fluttering sounds like compressor surge!!

Wont really harm you r motor as it is diesel, but it will sure as hell stuff your turbo.

I think it is more likly wastgate flutter, as it makes the noise on boost not off boost.

Compresseror surge is when pressure builds up between the intake and the turbo when you take you foot off the accelerator and causes the turbo to back spin/flutter.ie compressor surge. I think this is correct

The fluttering of the neddle is just that its off the boost guage scale.


Not sure why you would say its a "big problem" KiwiBacon, i do have access to a K type meatre and will check it out, however this engine has ceramic internals and manifolds,dump so not sure what temp reading should be. I have a Comp truch which i run at 450-600 degree so i do realise that 200-250 is very low, however the "OFF BOOST" fuel is not wound up very high and is more than likly running lean, which would be a cause of such low temps because even when you hit (ON BOOST) you dont stay on it very long before you back to (No boost) otherwise you would be setting land speed records and i dont have a 6th and 7th gear!

cheers Ash

[garth]

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