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gq clutch problems.....
gq clutch problems.....
hey guys.
Am just after some help with my patrol. Its a 88 diesel gq.
Well a bit of a story. Driving to work yesterday my clutch hose/cable split down at the slave cylinder causing me to loose clutch pressure. This was all well and good and easily diagnosed. The hose was fixed this morning. However the clutch would dissengage. However the biite point was really close too the floor and once the clutch had released it wouldnt return to its regular position. The local mechanic spoke to a brrake and clutch fella and he said it was the master cylinder. Now with that replaced the clutch point is still very close to the floor and once the clutch is released the pedal has some delay in it returning to the position it sits when not in use. The pedal also feels really light in comparison to before i split a hose.
The mechanic tells mee that he has bled it at all three places like everyone says. But who knows.
I was just wondering if anyone has had a similar experience? And what has cured this?
Any help would be greatly appreciated
cheers matt
Am just after some help with my patrol. Its a 88 diesel gq.
Well a bit of a story. Driving to work yesterday my clutch hose/cable split down at the slave cylinder causing me to loose clutch pressure. This was all well and good and easily diagnosed. The hose was fixed this morning. However the clutch would dissengage. However the biite point was really close too the floor and once the clutch had released it wouldnt return to its regular position. The local mechanic spoke to a brrake and clutch fella and he said it was the master cylinder. Now with that replaced the clutch point is still very close to the floor and once the clutch is released the pedal has some delay in it returning to the position it sits when not in use. The pedal also feels really light in comparison to before i split a hose.
The mechanic tells mee that he has bled it at all three places like everyone says. But who knows.
I was just wondering if anyone has had a similar experience? And what has cured this?
Any help would be greatly appreciated
cheers matt
clutch
pretty sure on the diesels there is another bleed point on the passenger side.
GU ST 4.2TD UTE.
TRAY AND SLIDERS BY KUSTOM KAGES
TRAY AND SLIDERS BY KUSTOM KAGES
try pulling the master off (without disconnecting the lines) and adjust the push pin inside.
There are 2 nuts, one either side and once undone your master will pull away from the booster without having to drain the resevoir, you'll be able to see the head of the push rod, pull it out and the tip is threaded, you'll be able to adjust your peddle's grab point with this, might simply be the new hose means the clutch needs adjusting, also now that you've been driving try bleeding it again on the passenger side, might find a bubble has worked it's way up.
Be very very careful holding the push rod with pliers, it slides through a rubber seel and if there are teath marks from pliers it'll cut up the seel and ruin your booster (i know, i've done it).
There are 2 nuts, one either side and once undone your master will pull away from the booster without having to drain the resevoir, you'll be able to see the head of the push rod, pull it out and the tip is threaded, you'll be able to adjust your peddle's grab point with this, might simply be the new hose means the clutch needs adjusting, also now that you've been driving try bleeding it again on the passenger side, might find a bubble has worked it's way up.
Be very very careful holding the push rod with pliers, it slides through a rubber seel and if there are teath marks from pliers it'll cut up the seel and ruin your booster (i know, i've done it).
If everything worked fine before hand, then it has to be a bleed issue. I went throught this not long ago with the same problem. Get about 2.5m of clear tubing that will fit over the bleeding nipples, then run it back to the master cylinder, pump the pedal to recircilate fluid around until no bubbles appear.
Do the top bleeder first. When you do the top one, it helps if you clamp the lower line.
Do the top bleeder first. When you do the top one, it helps if you clamp the lower line.
Fraser Island tour bus drivers suck!!
www.waterfrontrestaurant.info
www.frasercoast4wdclub.com
www.coastal4x4.com.au
1988 GQ 4.2TD, 2002 GU 3.0TD Wagon, 1987 HJ75 Ute.
www.waterfrontrestaurant.info
www.frasercoast4wdclub.com
www.coastal4x4.com.au
1988 GQ 4.2TD, 2002 GU 3.0TD Wagon, 1987 HJ75 Ute.
Have a similar problem here. found this:
http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/showthre ... ight=slave
Ran a tube directly from the MC to the slave and still the same problem. I think the problem is @ the booster. Will try using a non boosted MC and advise...
http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/showthre ... ight=slave
Ran a tube directly from the MC to the slave and still the same problem. I think the problem is @ the booster. Will try using a non boosted MC and advise...
GQ TD42, OME 5" suspension, 3" bodylift, shimmed V6 Pathfinder LSD front, ARB rear, Safari snorkel, custom front and rear bumpers, Nissan 4.625 R&P, 37" MTRs.
Panama, Central America
Panama, Central America
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