Ok, My for ever (Never) ending fuel issue.
I have had troubles with my lift pump/s since I've had it really.
It'll go good for awhile then just start farking up.
This one, Is the the one I've most succes with really.
But it recently decided it wanted to start leaking and when I went to un do it to check the o ring the split and broke.
I've tried this one
It worked for awhile, But then it didn't like to work again.
That one doesn't pump.
I really liked the first one pictured, (Thats the one it came with) Whats that called? Where would I find one again?
Or can you tell me what you have? Pictures will help.
Cheers thanks.
Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
What do you guys have lift pump wise?
What do you guys have lift pump wise?
Team Lock n load.
www.facebook.com/locknloadaustralia
www.facebook.com/locknloadaustralia
have you tried not using one and just filling the fuel filter full before screwing it back on, Thats what we use on the big rigs at work and a bit of aero start if its still being a pita.
Also works on my MK patrol, But GQ are different.
IN the Paj i had same drama as you, I used to just blow air in the tank breather and cover the filler with a rag to bleed.
OR, why not but a cav filter with a prime pump built in.
Also works on my MK patrol, But GQ are different.
IN the Paj i had same drama as you, I used to just blow air in the tank breather and cover the filler with a rag to bleed.
OR, why not but a cav filter with a prime pump built in.
Go down to the boat shop and buy yourself an outboard priming bulb for 8mm fuel line. About $12 from Bias Boats
Connect it in the fuel line before the filter.
Prime it up, then remove the bulb for next time.
Job done
Looks like this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-SeaS ... iesQ5fGear
Connect it in the fuel line before the filter.
Prime it up, then remove the bulb for next time.
Job done
Looks like this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-SeaS ... iesQ5fGear
I have done this too. You must remove it though or when you put you foot down up a steep hill the bulb will suck shut an cut off the fuel supply.Clanky wrote:Go down to the boat shop and buy yourself an outboard priming bulb for 8mm fuel line. About $12 from Bias Boats
Connect it in the fuel line before the filter.
Prime it up, then remove the bulb for next time.
Job done
Looks like this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-SeaS ... iesQ5fGear
You are talking primer here not lift pump. Get an electric lift lift pump and mount it just after the tank. Buddies have them and it makes bleeding a breeze and also helps the internal lift pump on your IP. Also, starting a rotary IP dry is a bad idea. Just because they do it on some pumps doesn't mean it is safe to do on others.
Well I can get the Ryco CAV filter but it doesn't have a primer on it for like $80 or something.pongo wrote:have you tried not using one and just filling the fuel filter full before screwing it back on, Thats what we use on the big rigs at work and a bit of aero start if its still being a pita.
Also works on my MK patrol, But GQ are different.
IN the Paj i had same drama as you, I used to just blow air in the tank breather and cover the filler with a rag to bleed.
OR, why not but a cav filter with a prime pump built in.
That'd be good if I could just get that then a boat primer do that and not have any worries lol.
If some one can find me a CAV with a primer I would be delighted.
Team Lock n load.
www.facebook.com/locknloadaustralia
www.facebook.com/locknloadaustralia
Agreed - do this!canuck wrote:You are talking primer here not lift pump. Get an electric lift lift pump and mount it just after the tank. Buddies have them and it makes bleeding a breeze and also helps the internal lift pump on your IP. Also, starting a rotary IP dry is a bad idea. Just because they do it on some pumps doesn't mean it is safe to do on others.
GU 4.2 TD Garrett BB Hi-flow, M8274 + Bells & Whistles with plenty of fruit still on the list!
[b][color=red]\ m / ( > . < ) \ m /[/color][/b]
[b][color=red]\ m / ( > . < ) \ m /[/color][/b]
This is what I run and its been in the car for 5 years now. Priming pump is ok for filter changes, but the boat priming bulb is better for bleeding the system after injector/pump work.
Item number: 390112613340
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Single-CAV-Diese ... 5ad48613dc
Item number: 390112613340
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Single-CAV-Diese ... 5ad48613dc
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 6 guests