Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
paj solid axle swap
Moderator: -Scott-
paj solid axle swap
has anyone put nissan gq axles under their paj? if so howd it go? im planning on front and rear gq axles with custom a frame and 5 link set up.
I seriously looked at GQ axles when I did my SAS.
If Cheezy had his way that's what he would have done.
The reasons I went Tojo front and kept the Mitsi 9" rear were :-
- good front clearance with the 8" front Tojo diff compared to 9.25" GQ but both are high pinion which is a must for the front propshaft alignment otherwise you will be spitting uni's (t/case end) like no tomorrow.
- rear clearance is reduced with the GQ 10.25"
- at the time there was only cryo treated CV's for the Tojo (now they are available for the GQ)
- more upgrade options for the Tojo such as chrome moly axles, CV's etc
- could run the 5.29 Tojo front diff gears to match the 5.29 Mitsi rear (essential IMO to run 35" + tyres with a 3.0 V6) you can only go 4.88's with the GQ.
- could run the V6 4 Runner front brake calipers (4 pot 45mm pistons)
The weak rear axles on the Mitsi 9" rear didn't bother me as I always planned to do a custom full floater conversion.
As I've said numerous times if ever I was to do this again I would use a NL GLX 3.5 V6 SOHC 5sp (or look at a 5sp auto conversion from an NM Paj) as the base vehice and run 80 Series Cruiser axles front and rear.
You gain bigger CV's, brakes, rear full floater, wider track, heaps of ratio's available, heaps of upgrades available ex US, still have 8" front and 9.75" rear (only slightly bigger than the 9.5" Mitsi rear).
Plus your not dragging around the weight of an 80 so reliability should be even better.
If Cheezy had his way that's what he would have done.
The reasons I went Tojo front and kept the Mitsi 9" rear were :-
- good front clearance with the 8" front Tojo diff compared to 9.25" GQ but both are high pinion which is a must for the front propshaft alignment otherwise you will be spitting uni's (t/case end) like no tomorrow.
- rear clearance is reduced with the GQ 10.25"
- at the time there was only cryo treated CV's for the Tojo (now they are available for the GQ)
- more upgrade options for the Tojo such as chrome moly axles, CV's etc
- could run the 5.29 Tojo front diff gears to match the 5.29 Mitsi rear (essential IMO to run 35" + tyres with a 3.0 V6) you can only go 4.88's with the GQ.
- could run the V6 4 Runner front brake calipers (4 pot 45mm pistons)
The weak rear axles on the Mitsi 9" rear didn't bother me as I always planned to do a custom full floater conversion.
As I've said numerous times if ever I was to do this again I would use a NL GLX 3.5 V6 SOHC 5sp (or look at a 5sp auto conversion from an NM Paj) as the base vehice and run 80 Series Cruiser axles front and rear.
You gain bigger CV's, brakes, rear full floater, wider track, heaps of ratio's available, heaps of upgrades available ex US, still have 8" front and 9.75" rear (only slightly bigger than the 9.5" Mitsi rear).
Plus your not dragging around the weight of an 80 so reliability should be even better.
I just luv my "clacker Jabber"
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 15 guests