To my peers of which i am learning
an abundant of valuable info.
Im looking at a 1992 80 diesel turbo( factory) manual
with a badge on the tailgate, says Fulltime 4wd.
i really like it, contemplating putting in an offer.
question is,..... is there any systemic problems with this model.
Its basically untouched b/w 300k and 350k's
Thanks in advance !!
Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
80 1992 turbo dieslel full time 4wd , problems if any?
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
80 1992 turbo dieslel full time 4wd , problems if any?
Trying to get used to being ignored.
Lots of drivetrain wear and tear being fulltime AWD, uni's n stuff, 3rd gear seems to go first based on a few that have come through here.
Engine's can live longer than 500,000 but usually the servicing gets less and less attention as the cars changes hands again and again and there have been a few users on here doing major work at the klms your talking about.
If it's mint condition a-grade showroom condition, perfect books, perfect paint as high as 20K if it's the worlds best lockers etc
If it's a POS 10k would pull it up
Engine's can live longer than 500,000 but usually the servicing gets less and less attention as the cars changes hands again and again and there have been a few users on here doing major work at the klms your talking about.
If it's mint condition a-grade showroom condition, perfect books, perfect paint as high as 20K if it's the worlds best lockers etc
If it's a POS 10k would pull it up
I'm not quitting drinking, I'm retiring at the top of my game - sporting comeback likely.
Awsome guys !
SCANAS... about the awd system, by any chance is this the model,
where people have taken out front axles to eleviate stress on the the running gear etc?
Ive seen one for sale where that was mentioned once.
im bloody hoping its mickey,
the guys asking ballpark that you speak of 10+
SCANAS... about the awd system, by any chance is this the model,
where people have taken out front axles to eleviate stress on the the running gear etc?
Ive seen one for sale where that was mentioned once.
im bloody hoping its mickey,
the guys asking ballpark that you speak of 10+
Trying to get used to being ignored.
You can install a part time 4wd kit, there have been a few threads about them and the general verdict was that they don't save enough money on fuel to warrant the change.
check out marks adapters for the kits but plenty of others do them.
check out marks adapters for the kits but plenty of others do them.
I'm not quitting drinking, I'm retiring at the top of my game - sporting comeback likely.
I don't really know much about diesel models. but check it does jump out of 5th gear. have to the main bearings in the engine being replaced? The factory turbo engines very dear to rebuild! (if they let go)
My mate has one and it flys (goes really well!!!) and quite economical. But he just had the injector pump rebuilt and replaced the timing belt and the bill just to get the pump rebuilt was nearly $3000.
My mate has one and it flys (goes really well!!!) and quite economical. But he just had the injector pump rebuilt and replaced the timing belt and the bill just to get the pump rebuilt was nearly $3000.
the pump should be ok. The only likely problem is that it may leak due to the newer low sulfur diesel. To reseal the pump you'd only be looking around the 1000 mark. bit more if you need a timing belt. at 3k it's a full rebuild and not necessary if it's running fine.
the gearbox can be a problem in second gear, mainly shifting down to it. the other gears can become balky too, but it's mainly 2nd. the falling out of 5th is mainly the previous model box. the h series are much stronger and it shouldn't be a problem.
the awd slop is also common. either part time kit, or replace the front cv's and drive flange with later model, longer spline ones. the transfer is rarely the problem.
other things to look for are broken seat mounts in the front, cracks in the c pillar near the bottom of the window line, cracks in the inner side of the chassis where the powersteering bolts on, also the welds around the chassis end panhard bracket (front)
Rust isn't normally too bad with these. the common spots are the bottom window sills in the cargo area (the sliding type) you'll spot it easy by pulling the rear cargo plastic back. Rust also forms in the lower firewall/floor on the driver side and can be spotted by looking down from the brake master cylinder.
these are the common problems with early models. anything else is likely to be normal wear, but should be checked out because parts can be expensive. things like wheel bearings, suspension bushes, tierod ends, uni joints, oil seals etc etc.
the gearbox can be a problem in second gear, mainly shifting down to it. the other gears can become balky too, but it's mainly 2nd. the falling out of 5th is mainly the previous model box. the h series are much stronger and it shouldn't be a problem.
the awd slop is also common. either part time kit, or replace the front cv's and drive flange with later model, longer spline ones. the transfer is rarely the problem.
other things to look for are broken seat mounts in the front, cracks in the c pillar near the bottom of the window line, cracks in the inner side of the chassis where the powersteering bolts on, also the welds around the chassis end panhard bracket (front)
Rust isn't normally too bad with these. the common spots are the bottom window sills in the cargo area (the sliding type) you'll spot it easy by pulling the rear cargo plastic back. Rust also forms in the lower firewall/floor on the driver side and can be spotted by looking down from the brake master cylinder.
these are the common problems with early models. anything else is likely to be normal wear, but should be checked out because parts can be expensive. things like wheel bearings, suspension bushes, tierod ends, uni joints, oil seals etc etc.
The worst part about being told you have Alzheimer's, is that it doesn't just happen once.
If you have not already read them.
80 SERIES
Buying an 80 Series?
- http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?t=52755
- http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?t=42888
- http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?t=35091
- http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?t=34808
- http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?t=21904
80 SERIES
Buying an 80 Series?
- http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?t=52755
- http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?t=42888
- http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?t=35091
- http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?t=34808
- http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?t=21904
Dave, Nat, Braiden, Ethan and now Elizabeth
Bye Bye 80 Series............Hello XR6T
Bye Bye 80 Series............Hello XR6T
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 4 guests