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How have others made comp strength winch bars for hilux?
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
How have others made comp strength winch bars for hilux?
as above Im having trouble trying to work out how to make a bar that will be strong enough to handle a decent winch. All of the mounting holes are below the chassis and the only way I can see to make it strong enough is to have more supports that come from the top of the chassis to the top of the bar. How have others made strong bars and pics would be even better.
Wtb, 105 series rear tyre carrier, alloys and tyres.
Would just bolting to the front of the chassis be strong enough?
like this http://locktup4x4.com.au/hilux-solid-fr ... e-218.html
like this http://locktup4x4.com.au/hilux-solid-fr ... e-218.html
Wtb, 105 series rear tyre carrier, alloys and tyres.
Nice truck. Did you build the bar? Was more looking how to bolt to the vehicle and still have some strength with the winch up higher, possibly set into grill and still have some strength in it.
Ive done a quick pic to show what I mean Red dots are holes on front of chassis, green dots are below the chassis and yellow is where I want the winch to be.
Ive done a quick pic to show what I mean Red dots are holes on front of chassis, green dots are below the chassis and yellow is where I want the winch to be.
Wtb, 105 series rear tyre carrier, alloys and tyres.
I made some horns out of 10mm plate that was welded to the front outside of the chassis to mount my TJM bar off the front of my old lux, after i nearly plucked the bullbar off it one time.
I cut the front body mounts off and plated the chassis about 400m back both sides. The plate D/S went above and below the steering box. trimmed up the body mounts and stuck them back on.
The winch was still higher than the chassis line but the bar never rolled forward or even moved after that.
I cut the front body mounts off and plated the chassis about 400m back both sides. The plate D/S went above and below the steering box. trimmed up the body mounts and stuck them back on.
The winch was still higher than the chassis line but the bar never rolled forward or even moved after that.
try http://www.budscustoms.com.au/home.asp he makes good strong front bars that are winch compatible
Lj80 tuff truck "mr Grumpy"
Nah cant find any of it repaired, ony a couple of when it failed.SIMMO84 wrote:Any pics? sounds like what I was after. After 2 accidents in the hilux and having 2 bars fail miserably Im abit worried about putting a winch on the front of it. It has to be strong enough to hang a hilux off
let me know if you really want and I'll try knock up some paint diagrams from memory as I sold the truck about 18 months ago.
Buy or make a winch cradle, and mount the cradle so you can hang the truck off it... Once it is mounted to the hanger and chassis build the bar around it to suit.
Comp Spec scomp smec, any bar with decent welding, the right material and a bit of thought and common sense thrown at it should withstand anything you throw at it.
An exo will help it be more rigid as far as the top of the bar flexing front to back, but the exo isn't a big contributing mounting point... The ARB winch bars utilize the 4 tapped threads under the rails (which is shear weight/pressure when winching), meaning it must SNAP 4 high tensile bolts for it to come off, and 2 in the spring hanger, also if you use 2 in the side of the rail it will be unbreakable... ARB etc don't use these 2 holes, if it breaks it should have been done by a professional in the first place, triangulating the mounting arms/braces will add to the rigidness of the bar.
Adding bars from the middle of the bar back to the side of the chassis rails etc(which triangulates the mounting points) would have stopped front to back roll as mentioned above.
Comp Spec scomp smec, any bar with decent welding, the right material and a bit of thought and common sense thrown at it should withstand anything you throw at it.
An exo will help it be more rigid as far as the top of the bar flexing front to back, but the exo isn't a big contributing mounting point... The ARB winch bars utilize the 4 tapped threads under the rails (which is shear weight/pressure when winching), meaning it must SNAP 4 high tensile bolts for it to come off, and 2 in the spring hanger, also if you use 2 in the side of the rail it will be unbreakable... ARB etc don't use these 2 holes, if it breaks it should have been done by a professional in the first place, triangulating the mounting arms/braces will add to the rigidness of the bar.
Adding bars from the middle of the bar back to the side of the chassis rails etc(which triangulates the mounting points) would have stopped front to back roll as mentioned above.
BBP Offroad
Boondall Backyard Performance
They call me the MR. throw cash at shiz til its comp specccccc
Boondall Backyard Performance
They call me the MR. throw cash at shiz til its comp specccccc
Thanks for the replies, I want to mount the winch quite high (almost into the grill) thats why I was worried the bar would roll top to bottom. I have worked out something using the bottom holes and the 2 threaded ones on the front. This rig is being built to compete in a winch series that is held in north QLD so the winch is only going to get bigger as time goes by.
Wtb, 105 series rear tyre carrier, alloys and tyres.
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