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Breaking wheel studs??
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
Breaking wheel studs??
Just wondering if anyone has heard of people breaking wheelstuds if the rim isnt seated on the hub, relying on the wheelstuds to take the weight.
Cheers,
Dan
Cheers,
Dan
the hub doesnt really take that much weight anyway, you would need the fit to be so tight that its hard to get the rim on before the hub takes a great deal of weight(or for therim to be moving around on the studs a lot, so that the lower part of the rim is always on the hub...)
in reality it wont make that much differance. wheel studs are more likely to break because the nuts arent done up to the correct torque
in reality it wont make that much differance. wheel studs are more likely to break because the nuts arent done up to the correct torque
[quote="Barnsey"]
Bronwyn Bishop does it for me.[/quote]
Bronwyn Bishop does it for me.[/quote]
it is dangerous.
you need to keep the wheel hub-centric.
you can get rings from your local tyre guy, or get some machined up at an engineering shop.
you need to keep the wheel hub-centric.
you can get rings from your local tyre guy, or get some machined up at an engineering shop.
97 GQ patrol coilcab. TD42, safari turbo kit with fiddled turbo, D-GAS kit. dyno results to come...
4inch lift, king springs, efs and procomp shocks
315/70R16 cooper ST's
found fuel economy...
4inch lift, king springs, efs and procomp shocks
315/70R16 cooper ST's
found fuel economy...
The rear diff on most 4wds don't have a centric ring on them...
Most aftermarket rims are 115mm id to fit the Nissans, so most 4wd Toyota, Isuzu, Mazda, etc. and have aftermarket rims on them don't use the centric ring on the front either...
Most aftermarket rims are 115mm id to fit the Nissans, so most 4wd Toyota, Isuzu, Mazda, etc. and have aftermarket rims on them don't use the centric ring on the front either...
Go hard or go home!!!
MU build here
MU build here
This is my opinion too.love ke70 wrote:legally if it came hub-centric, it needs to be maintained, and for good reason in my opinion
I also thought that wheel shops could supply suitable inserts for different centres.
You can't do them up all the way with a rattle gun without a massive risk of overtightening them. I would not let anyone near mine with a rattle gun but if you must use one, you have to stop and do the last bit with a normal brace. Just my opinion. I don't know anyone who really knows cars who would use a rattle gun for this job.Matt_85Lux wrote:correction, done up too tight with a rattle gun. Just because a rattle gun is used doesn't automatically mean they were done up too tight. They can be done up too tight by hand aswellnerida67 wrote:broken studs
hmmm
let me guess , they were done up with a rattle gun ???
This is not legal advice.
wheel shops have the device that limits the torque that goes through the stud, i believe they work and let my tyre guy rattle gun my studs and have not had an issue with stretching...but a standard socket on the end of a gun i wouldnt wanna do.chimpboy wrote:This is my opinion too.love ke70 wrote:legally if it came hub-centric, it needs to be maintained, and for good reason in my opinion
I also thought that wheel shops could supply suitable inserts for different centres.
You can't do them up all the way with a rattle gun without a massive risk of overtightening them. I would not let anyone near mine with a rattle gun but if you must use one, you have to stop and do the last bit with a normal brace. Just my opinion. I don't know anyone who really knows cars who would use a rattle gun for this job.Matt_85Lux wrote:correction, done up too tight with a rattle gun. Just because a rattle gun is used doesn't automatically mean they were done up too tight. They can be done up too tight by hand aswellnerida67 wrote:broken studs
hmmm
let me guess , they were done up with a rattle gun ???
97 GQ patrol coilcab. TD42, safari turbo kit with fiddled turbo, D-GAS kit. dyno results to come...
4inch lift, king springs, efs and procomp shocks
315/70R16 cooper ST's
found fuel economy...
4inch lift, king springs, efs and procomp shocks
315/70R16 cooper ST's
found fuel economy...
I havnt broken any.bazzle wrote:To the OP.
Why do you ask this question?
Over the years there have been studs that break for many reasons, heat treatment, wrong material, overstressed at some time, too loose etc etc.
Bazzle
Its just that I have always been told with my street cars, that the wheel needs to sit on the hub properly because if it doesnt, you will break studs. Been on the phone to a few aftermarket suppliers, chasing some wider rims for my Bravo, they all tell me that it will be fine you dont need to have it seated on the hub.
Im just not sure i want to rely on the studs only.....
wheels sitting on the hubs
hubs takin all the load
myth
standard wheels/sunraisers ect have a tapered wheel nut
most alloys,(not sure on later ones , but the early ones)had a long wheel nut that fit inside the wheel(long shank sorta thing)
most early fords with chrome 12 slotters have a large hub centred rim on a small hub centred car,dont see many of them break studs
there has been plenty writin on the subject over time and the hub size wasnt the cause of broken studs
as said above either, ill fitting wheels, wrong wheel nuts, metal fatigue or over tightening
if buying new rims for your vechicle the wheel/tyre shop will know wat wheel nuts u require
hubs takin all the load
myth
standard wheels/sunraisers ect have a tapered wheel nut
most alloys,(not sure on later ones , but the early ones)had a long wheel nut that fit inside the wheel(long shank sorta thing)
most early fords with chrome 12 slotters have a large hub centred rim on a small hub centred car,dont see many of them break studs
there has been plenty writin on the subject over time and the hub size wasnt the cause of broken studs
as said above either, ill fitting wheels, wrong wheel nuts, metal fatigue or over tightening
if buying new rims for your vechicle the wheel/tyre shop will know wat wheel nuts u require
I had a gq with 40s on and drum rear with alloy rims and they didnt sit right on the little locating bit sat out abit, they wound the wheel nuts off twice in one day, the first time was going pretty fast and had to absail off my winch to go fetch it outa a valley. Just attacked the centers witha die grinder was fine after that.
Blown ls1 GQ winch truck. and GU tow car / daily
So your wheels weren't sitting flush against the drum with your wheel nuts tightened?big lux wrote:I had a gq with 40s on and drum rear with alloy rims and they didnt sit right on the little locating bit sat out abit, they wound the wheel nuts off twice in one day, the first time was going pretty fast and had to absail off my winch to go fetch it outa a valley. Just attacked the centers witha die grinder was fine after that.
03 turbo twin cab hilux + 85 xtra cab 253, Have i ever said i love lockers?
Wheel studs are NOT designed to carry vehicle load. That is the job of the centre spigot.chunks wrote:I have seen various street cars shear wheel studs due to not having centre bore locators fitted inside thir aftermarket wheels. Maybe 4wd studs are designed to take the load but some car studs aren't?nerida67 wrote:wheels sitting on the hubshubs takin all the load
myth
People (including myself) "get away with it" because the tension in the studs creates a significant clamping force, so metal on metal friction (between rim & hub) effectively carries the weight.
Keep the mounting faces of wheel & hub scrupulously clean, and tighten wheel nuts with a wheel brace.
spot on!-Scott- wrote:
Keep the mounting faces of wheel & hub scrupulously clean, and tighten wheel nuts with a wheel brace.
ill bet, that any rim that 'sits' on the hub, will have a gap still. it might not be much of a gap, but its enuf that its not taking a load.
follow what scott says and you will have no probs regardless
[quote="Barnsey"]
Bronwyn Bishop does it for me.[/quote]
Bronwyn Bishop does it for me.[/quote]
This thread has been saved.-Scott- wrote:Wheel studs are NOT designed to carry vehicle load. That is the job of the centre spigot.
People (including myself) "get away with it" because the tension in the studs creates a significant clamping force, so metal on metal friction (between rim & hub) effectively carries the weight.
Keep the mounting faces of wheel & hub scrupulously clean, and tighten wheel nuts with a wheel brace.
The hub centre only takes the load if the friction grip between the wheel and hub is overwhelmed. This isn't normal operation unless your wheel nuts are loose or you're getting airborne too often.
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