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Shouldn't really be necesary and I don't know of anyone who has had to.
There's heaps of play in the cable so it really shouldn't be an issue for a 2" b/l but for 3" may require some work.
Just thought i'd check as the mechanic had a whinge that i wouldn't get full artic. and that removing the mounting screw for the cable on the leading arm made it unroadworthy. in that case - "Lets not even think about the o'size tyres, oilleaks ....".guess who's got a new mechanic! cheers for the reply.
POOJAR NF V6 33" MT's 2" bod lift & usual addons for the shopping trolley.
Will be looking into lowering the mount a bit further down the track. With rear sway bar removed and at full articulation my cable is getting a bit on the tight side. At the moment the shocks max out before the handbrake cable becomes a guitar string.
That's with 2 inch body lift and lifted springs.
When I read about the evils of drinking, I gave up reading
Blair, it's certainly gonna be an issue with mine with the A frame rear and extra flex. I showed Cheezy and his idea was to make different mounts off the trailing arms, test with flex and reposition if necesary.
A J Top with a 3" body lift I did was pulling the outer cable out of the top body mount off road.
I had already fitted longer tags to trailing arms so I had new cables made up,$202.50 NZ a pair,3" longer.
J Top
J Top wrote:A J Top with a 3" body lift I did was pulling the outer cable out of the top body mount off road. I had already fitted longer tags to trailing arms so I had new cables made up,$202.50 NZ a pair,3" longer. J Top
With my 2", the e-brake cables still had slack. BUt check the rear flex lines themselves. Mine was acting like a limiting strap, till I extended it!