best way of guiding winch wire from midmount

[love ke70]

hey guys,

got a question regarding running winch wire from my midmount to the centre of the bar on my GQ.

winch is in place and cant be moved, and the wire has been ordered. it is 70 metres of 11mm 6x25 galvanised steel core 2070 grade.

talking to the wire people today about my plan to simply use eye bolts through the chassis to guide it to the centre of the bar and have a block of aluminium that has been machined like a hawse fairlead.

he has said that as the wire will be under full load running through the eyes it will actually damage the wire where its bending around the eye, and will only last a few pulls before it is quite damaged.

so i was wondering how other people do it?

rope is not an option, so it has to be to suit the wire...

he suggested using small sheaves but im not sure i would have the space as its already quite squeezy down that side and im probably already going to have to move the little bit of exhaust that my ute runs

i considered running it through small mandrel bent piping, but as people have mentioned in previous threads, its gona suck to snap it inside there, but i dont think ill snap the wire ever if its looked after.

so does anyone have any thoughts on the matter or know of any setups that are proven with wire?

cheers, andy

[craz3d]

some sort of block system with pulleys to guide it maybe?

[love ke70]

what do you mean a block system?

and as i said, im not convinced im going to be able to fit a sheave in there...

[RED60]

How much away from straight are we talking and how many bends....

[ludacris]

Make some custom small roller hawse fairleads. Also ditch the alloy hawse fairlead as the steel cable will tear it apart.

Cris

[nzdarin]

Use a short section of bent pipe instead of the eye bolt. ie about 100mm long. That way you have a curved surface to spread the load and not kink the rope but is still very compact.
I did this on my first mid-mount winch and it worked really well.

[love ke70]

how far from straight, well, from centre of car, down to a straight line between chassis and gearbox, so at least 300-400mm off centre.

ludacris, i was thinking of ditching that and just going to a roller, i wondered if the wire would destroy it quicksmart.

im not quite following you when you say roller hawse fairleads? could you explain a little further please

nzdarin, thanks, its either that or a long length, ive been told to go for the closest id to the rope so that it cant flatten out on the inner wall and will stay round.
makes sense.

so im gonna look into what i can use around a half inch ID and that will be up to the task

cheers, andy

[RED60]

Use a short section of bent pipe instead of the eye bolt. ie about 100mm long. That way you have a curved surface to spread the load and not kink the rope but is still very compact.
I did this on my first mid-mount winch and it worked really well.

This is definitely the way to go as long as the bend/s aren't too sharp (say 20 deg max). The actual side load on the rope won't be much compared to the load along its length. The tube/pipe will need to be fixed to something solid and the brackets should be in tension if you can make it that way.... if they're not in tension they will have to be substantial..

[steel]

I done a similar setup on my ute a while back. My winch is mounted above the rear axle and faces rearwards, runs through a block 180 degrees, back forward to another block which sends the rope down to another block, which sends the rope forward along the centre of the chassis. At about the gearbox Xmember, the rope enters the left chassis rail and runs in the chassis to the front of the truck, where it exits through a custom high tensile fairlead.

Search "midmount winch" and you should find a thread i did on it.


Sorry you'll have to search "mid mount winch"