Ok, I cracked the rear housing on my gearbox years ago when the uni on the short shaft went. Finally got off my ass and replaced the rear housing with one I had picked up a while ago. Now the old rear housing had the breather in it, but the new one doesnt have a spot where one would go and therefore I have lost the breather for the box.
Now has anyone else come across this and does anyone know if it is going to cause any problems with over pressurising and blowing out the seals ?
it is still there, but does not have a cap etc on it (usually) near the base of the shift tower.
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THE "silly" question thread
drill and tap a new one...shouldn't hurt it...
Work - KPD4X4.COM - KPD Industries Australian Distributor of Diesel Power Modules - Germany.
Play - dank's zook
Play - dank's zook
normally measured by how far you can deflect/bend the long part of the belt.shandy wrote:ok thanks,zukiviagra wrote:yea mate they can be to tight. should have a little play but not slip.
if its to tight it can damage alternator bearings and tensioners etc.
how much should i be able to twist the belt? is 1/2 to 3/4 of twist to loose.
thanks
basic rul of thumb 15-30 mm ish of movement from should be fine depending on how long ther long bit is.
*there's a rock, drive over it :) there's a bigger rock, drive over it :twisted: there's an even bigger rock, oops broke it :oops: Upgrade broken bit :bad-words:
Goto *
Goto *
oh ok, thanks for thatthehanko wrote:normally measured by how far you can deflect/bend the long part of the belt.shandy wrote:ok thanks,zukiviagra wrote:yea mate they can be to tight. should have a little play but not slip.
if its to tight it can damage alternator bearings and tensioners etc.
how much should i be able to twist the belt? is 1/2 to 3/4 of twist to loose.
thanks
basic rul of thumb 15-30 mm ish of movement from should be fine depending on how long ther long bit is.
whats the rest of your set up?MR 1JZ wrote:im in the process of ordering new rims and tyres for my zook
15x8 -24 sunnies with 31x10.5 MT117 Extremes
Anyone forsee any clearance issues?
WT / NT
lift, shakles, body work, bars etc etc
*there's a rock, drive over it :) there's a bigger rock, drive over it :twisted: there's an even bigger rock, oops broke it :oops: Upgrade broken bit :bad-words:
Goto *
Goto *
Sure canjazuki wrote:Can someone tell me if i can fit a front ARB diff centre in to the rear diff ?If i get ARB rear side gears to suit the change in spline counts ?
" If governments are involved in the covering up the knowledge of aliens, Then they are doing a much better job of it than they do of everything else "
custom bar (nothing special)thehanko wrote:whats the rest of your set up?MR 1JZ wrote:im in the process of ordering new rims and tyres for my zook
15x8 -24 sunnies with 31x10.5 MT117 Extremes
Anyone forsee any clearance issues?
WT / NT
lift, shakles, body work, bars etc etc
stock flares
W/T
2.5" springs
2" shackles
2" BL
GZ20 Soarer - 2JZ and T78
RJ70 Bundera - Sold
SJ Sierra - 31" MT117, 2.5" Springs, Shackles, Dual Lockrites, 2" BL and much more
RJ70 Bundera - Sold
SJ Sierra - 31" MT117, 2.5" Springs, Shackles, Dual Lockrites, 2" BL and much more
Missing the trees probably... 
He/She/It's being 'smart', hinting at your car being too tall. (personally I agree, but that doesn't mean it is too tall, just not how I'd build one).
The main thing with the 31's with your setup will be hitting either the firewall or the front bumper-bar outriggers. Make sure the seams on the fireall are hammered flat, spend some time massaging the firewall back a bit if you want, or better yet move the front diff forward. If the diff is forward the bumper bar outriggers will have to go completely.
I've shoehorned the same tyres in with a 2" sus lift, and 2" bumpstop extensions, along with some axle moving and trimming/hammering/massagging/etc etc... So you should have no problems!
He/She/It's being 'smart', hinting at your car being too tall. (personally I agree, but that doesn't mean it is too tall, just not how I'd build one).
The main thing with the 31's with your setup will be hitting either the firewall or the front bumper-bar outriggers. Make sure the seams on the fireall are hammered flat, spend some time massaging the firewall back a bit if you want, or better yet move the front diff forward. If the diff is forward the bumper bar outriggers will have to go completely.
I've shoehorned the same tyres in with a 2" sus lift, and 2" bumpstop extensions, along with some axle moving and trimming/hammering/massagging/etc etc... So you should have no problems!
Wheeling on completely wicked angles, without even looking stable.
lovely cheers
yeah the lift that is in it is already therer (car is on a truck from QLD atm) i will asses how it is and what needs to be done to it
ultimately I think it is too high as well...I want to make it difficult to roll so increasing track with the wide low offset wheels is first port of call...ill look at height as well
yeah the lift that is in it is already therer (car is on a truck from QLD atm) i will asses how it is and what needs to be done to it
ultimately I think it is too high as well...I want to make it difficult to roll so increasing track with the wide low offset wheels is first port of call...ill look at height as well
GZ20 Soarer - 2JZ and T78
RJ70 Bundera - Sold
SJ Sierra - 31" MT117, 2.5" Springs, Shackles, Dual Lockrites, 2" BL and much more
RJ70 Bundera - Sold
SJ Sierra - 31" MT117, 2.5" Springs, Shackles, Dual Lockrites, 2" BL and much more
I know some people who run 2" sus and 2" body lift in them, and they are still quite stable cars (unless you drive like a loon ), even in Narrow track form; so I wouldn't stress. I just like my car being super low and I drive with the attitude my skid rails are there for a reason (because they spend alot of time getting scratched!)
), even in Narrow track form; so I wouldn't stress. I just like my car being super low and I drive with the attitude my skid rails are there for a reason (because they spend alot of time getting scratched!)Wheeling on completely wicked angles, without even looking stable.
thats older autos .. motors temp is not relevant and motor should be off. (you can check it before you get in and start it in the morning so long as the car is basically level)shandy wrote:when checking the engine oil level, the engine should be at running temp correct?
just double checking
thanks
" If governments are involved in the covering up the knowledge of aliens, Then they are doing a much better job of it than they do of everything else "
ring and pinion only.Remydog05 wrote:When you swap a Vitara Diff into a Sierra 1.3 Diff what parts do you use?
The Front and Rear Vit whole diff center or only the R&Pgears?
Can you use Grand Vit Diffs or only the older Vit diffs?
any vitara front as i understand things.
DMA Founding Member #1 - Now Retired
There's more than one type of flare that Suzuki offered but they don't extend a lot, probably no more than 50mm at the most.=SKB= wrote:Can anyone tell me the width of the OEM Vitara flares from the guard?
[quote="4WD Stuff"]
I haven't quoted Grimbo because nobody takes him seriously :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: [/quote]
I haven't quoted Grimbo because nobody takes him seriously :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: [/quote]
does anyone have any contact details for "simobimo", he had some zook parts on here a while ago and had pm down as his contact but i have sent him 2 pms and they are both still in my outbox 
in the newcastle area?
in the newcastle area?WANTED: swb vitara rear seat. the 3 seater bench type
for sale: wt diffs, snake hi steer, maruti 4.1 wt centres,
for sale: wt diffs, snake hi steer, maruti 4.1 wt centres,
The different versions pop up on Trade Me in NZ from time to time which is where I got mine from.=SKB= wrote:
Any advice on sourcing OEM flares?
http://www.trademe.co.nz/
[quote="4WD Stuff"]
I haven't quoted Grimbo because nobody takes him seriously :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: [/quote]
I haven't quoted Grimbo because nobody takes him seriously :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: [/quote]
do in line fuel pumps need priming in any way? in particular a vl fuel pump.
we are doing an eng swap to a 4age, pump was working but now is giving us issues and just want to double check to see before swaping it out.
its weird you can hear and feel it turn on but... nothing.
we are doing an eng swap to a 4age, pump was working but now is giving us issues and just want to double check to see before swaping it out.
its weird you can hear and feel it turn on but... nothing.
*there's a rock, drive over it :) there's a bigger rock, drive over it :twisted: there's an even bigger rock, oops broke it :oops: Upgrade broken bit :bad-words:
Goto *
Goto *
Thankszook4fun wrote:the vl pump need to have in it fuel always, hose going down to it so it doesn't drain back into the tank. they are no good at sucking air out and self priming
*there's a rock, drive over it :) there's a bigger rock, drive over it :twisted: there's an even bigger rock, oops broke it :oops: Upgrade broken bit :bad-words:
Goto *
Goto *
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