I was heading home from the North Coast NSW on the freeway yesterday.I noticed those three warning lamps on.Ipulled over and drained the fuel filter.There was no water in it.I tested the sub tank.It still worked.My turbo timer has reading coming from the alternator.It was down to 12.7 volts at idle and up to about 13.6volts while cruising at freeway speeds.If I put the hammer down it would sometimes get to 14volts and the three warning lights would go out momentarily till it dropped back down to the 13's.
I noticed as soon as I stopped at the lights I heard redarc clunk.So the main battery is obviously not getting its proper charge.
Is my alternator screwed?Or just the regulator.How can I test the regulator?Are those three warning lights wired together.
Anyone had anything like this? Advice appreciated.Oh yeah vehicle is a Gu 4.2 Turbo.
Cheers.
Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
Battery,Sub tank and water in fuel filter lights all on?
Battery,Sub tank and water in fuel filter lights all on?
So Many Cats,So few Recipies
must have got a cheap aftermarket one like i did not too long ago..Buckshot wrote:Took it to auto electrician today.Alternator is on the way out.Bill $450.Faaark. The old Kingswood was $70 for a new one!
i did get some quotes of over $1000
my GUBanzy wrote:Dial up internet.........you'd post something and come back 2 beers later to see if it loaded.
Posts: 1950
Joined: Mon Apr 18, 2005 2:15 pm
Joined: Mon Apr 18, 2005 2:15 pm
Location: While you were reading this I sent dirty text messages to your mum.
Contact:
Buckshot wrote:Took it to auto electrician today.Alternator is on the way out.Bill $450.Faaark. The old Kingswood was $70 for a new one!
How many amp will the new one put out though??
[quote="chimpboy"]I might be reading that wrong, but it sounds like you are saying you want to come out of the closet and then rape my bottom or something..?
[/quote]
[/quote]
Was gonna say, your up for a new alternator. I had the exact same lights & same symptoms 2 weeks ago.Buckshot wrote:Took it to auto electrician today.Alternator is on the way out.Bill $450.Faaark. The old Kingswood was $70 for a new one!
Mowie, I think the GU uses a 90amp unit. Should read 14+ volts at idle... Mine was at around 11-12. $440 later (new alt) I was good to go.
i did find a 120A one when i was looking but i couldnt afford it at the time 
100A should be enough for me for now
100A should be enough for me for now
my GUBanzy wrote:Dial up internet.........you'd post something and come back 2 beers later to see if it loaded.
Hi Guys, I know this thread is a yr old but its the only one with the exact problem I had today.
I had a different noise from the usual diesel rattle yesterday and this morning. Hard to describe.
Then after driving for an hr today the noise had gone and I had these same 3 warning lights come on. I checked the fuel filter and there didnt seem to be any water.
Was the alternater definately the problem?
Just seems strange that the Water in fuel light comes on and the subtank light. THe battery light seems logical.
Even tho I have an after market fuel filter and I think the water sensor is no longer connected
Typical this had to happen as I leave to go away for 4 days.
Thanks for any advice.
Eric
PS. 2000 GU 4.2
I had a different noise from the usual diesel rattle yesterday and this morning. Hard to describe.
Then after driving for an hr today the noise had gone and I had these same 3 warning lights come on. I checked the fuel filter and there didnt seem to be any water.
Was the alternater definately the problem?
Just seems strange that the Water in fuel light comes on and the subtank light. THe battery light seems logical.
Even tho I have an after market fuel filter and I think the water sensor is no longer connected
Typical this had to happen as I leave to go away for 4 days.
Thanks for any advice.
Eric
PS. 2000 GU 4.2
2000 GU II 4.2TD
Just discovered the same problem on my GU3 (3 litre t/d).
Metered the battery and 12.6v with the engine off and then it drops to 11.6v when turned on.
The alternator has 12v on the input connection, but the output 12v does not change with the revs.
All the earths are good.
Am I up for a new alternator, or is there somewhere else I should be looking.
Metered the battery and 12.6v with the engine off and then it drops to 11.6v when turned on.
The alternator has 12v on the input connection, but the output 12v does not change with the revs.
All the earths are good.
Am I up for a new alternator, or is there somewhere else I should be looking.
Alternator
If you're geting noise from the alternator, check the obvious to start... belt and bearings. Have a look at the rear bearing - I've had a similar problem recently, rear bearing collapsed.
Failing that, pull the alternator out and check the brushes.
What ever the problem, don't be afraid to pull the alternator apart and fix it yourself. A set of bearings will be only a few bucks. Brushes are less than ten bucks. The hardest part to stripping it (when they have internal regulators or rectifier bridges) is de-soldering the stator leads and not wrecking the tabs... it'll make sense when you give it a crack. The internet has heaps of info including parts breakdown and overhaul procedures on just about everything!
If you do just buy a new one, keep the old one and pull it apart, then chuck it in the bin - you'll at least learn a little more about your car.
If it doesn't work, force it. If it breaks, it needed replacing anyway!!
Failing that, pull the alternator out and check the brushes.
What ever the problem, don't be afraid to pull the alternator apart and fix it yourself. A set of bearings will be only a few bucks. Brushes are less than ten bucks. The hardest part to stripping it (when they have internal regulators or rectifier bridges) is de-soldering the stator leads and not wrecking the tabs... it'll make sense when you give it a crack. The internet has heaps of info including parts breakdown and overhaul procedures on just about everything!
If you do just buy a new one, keep the old one and pull it apart, then chuck it in the bin - you'll at least learn a little more about your car.
If it doesn't work, force it. If it breaks, it needed replacing anyway!!
2000 GU II, 6.5L Chev Diesel (ex ZD30), lift, bar+winch, rear bar, drawers, fuel tanks I need a personal loan to fill... most of the regular touring gear.
Could be a stuffed diode in the rectifier, you wouldn't be able to check without stripping the alternator though and removing ther rectifier from the coil. My 89 GQ did the exact same thing, turned out i'd completely burned out the diodes in the rectifier and also stuffed the regulator. Is it perchance an after market high output alt?
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 23 guests