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JK lift kits HELP
Moderator: GUtripper
JK lift kits HELP
Can someone please give me some advise I want to lift my JK 2'' been told by jeep so long as i dont alter the drive line angle by to extreme warranty still stands i was told by jeep 2'' is fine so i have been shoping around theres a place in brisbane called hammonds $2450 not sure of the brand of springs but they use Rancho shocks (very exspencive).
so i went to a place called Fourbies half the price and ARB wont touch it they said there kit make for bad tyre shake and its to dangerous so if anyone lives in Brisbane and could point me in the right direction i would be very happy.
I dont mind paying the $2450 if thats what i need to do but if the one for half the price is just as good HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
so i went to a place called Fourbies half the price and ARB wont touch it they said there kit make for bad tyre shake and its to dangerous so if anyone lives in Brisbane and could point me in the right direction i would be very happy.
I dont mind paying the $2450 if thats what i need to do but if the one for half the price is just as good HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
If you're confused just go and get the Mopar lift. Its a 50mm lift over stock and you will have no worries with warranty whatsoever if a mechanic fits them.
Mopar are apparently working on replacement shocks to suit the lift better than the standard ones too. I'd probably hold off lifting it until these are released as then you can have a complete 2" lift kit with FULL factory warranty.
my 2 jeep dealers (you get to know the service managers quite well when you have a modified JK) both will not touch my Jeep with steering/driveline issues if it is lifted with non-Mopar equipment. And it is fair enough really.
Mopar are apparently working on replacement shocks to suit the lift better than the standard ones too. I'd probably hold off lifting it until these are released as then you can have a complete 2" lift kit with FULL factory warranty.
my 2 jeep dealers (you get to know the service managers quite well when you have a modified JK) both will not touch my Jeep with steering/driveline issues if it is lifted with non-Mopar equipment. And it is fair enough really.
Re: JK lift kits HELP
Hammonds use Rugged Ridge Springs, they are suppose to be pretty comfortable springs, however hammonds charge way to much for them. They are the same price as RE springs in the states and Wooders sells the RE springs for about $700 a set of 4, not $1200 like hammonds. Hammonds also use Pro Comp shocks generally and charge way more than Wizard do for the same shock. Hammonds know what they are doing though, and the benefit is that if something goes wrong, they will be willing to help, so an extra couple hundred now can save you a fortune and hardache in the future. I have an ARB coils, but am considering going back to Mopar springs just for warranty. I use Rancho shocks nd luv them , they are no different in price to other brand name shocks in Oz. If you are going for a higher lift, i would as some one else suggested go for a complete kit, as buying all the options later costs a near furtune. I have heard that particular ARB outlets are refusing to install lifts on JK's now??? interesting. Speak to Gary at Westide 4 x 4, he is known as the ARB Jeep expert. You will struggle to get 2" with ARB though, unless you use their softest springs which will not take a load. I have the 619's in the front with a diesel and bullbar and have 62mm of lift. the rear has the 618's, and has a 75mm lift with hardtop. The 617's are apparently to soft for the 4 door?? if you are worried about warranty, i would stick to the Mopar springs, can always all a spacer and remove it if you have an issue. I have written to the Jeep dealership asking what lift or lift size they will warrant, they refused to answer. i will send the same letter to Chrysler next?? You will end up paying over $2000 once you add on trackbars, control arms, bump stops, brake line extenders etc on any lift.
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linksjeep wrote:Can someone please give me some advise I want to lift my JK 2'' been told by jeep so long as i dont alter the drive line angle by to extreme warranty still stands i was told by jeep 2'' is fine so i have been shoping around theres a place in brisbane called hammonds $2450 not sure of the brand of springs but they use Rancho shocks (very exspencive).
so i went to a place called Fourbies half the price and ARB wont touch it they said there kit make for bad tyre shake and its to dangerous so if anyone lives in Brisbane and could point me in the right direction i would be very happy.
I dont mind paying the $2450 if thats what i need to do but if the one for half the price is just as good HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
So it appears the whispers about discontinuing of the OME kit maybe true. They are probably in the process of doing a rework and the new version will hopefully be better thought out. Ring Suspension Stuff they will sell you Dobinson coils and Rubicon express dampers(rebadged Bilsteins) at a very competative price and if you don't feel confident enough to fit them any mechanic will be able to do it for you and probably charge about 2hrs labour. Other than that Mopar springs are the go but Jeep fitting prices maybe a tad high and i'd wait for the mopar shocks to be released with this setup b4 changing them.
I run the Dobinson coils and quite like them. They are a stiff coil and i feel the slightly harder ride just works better in controlling axle movement and feels more secure on side slopes and when cornering hard. My only regret is that i didn't go with the Rubicon express shocks as the monotube design although stiffer also has advantages. Plus i'm getting sick of replacing my rear adjuster on my tough dogs as it is very vulnerable to rocks.
Hammond do appear to charge like wounded rhino's but what you are paying for is experience with heeps (sorry meant jeeps). Personally though looking at the components the price is way too much. Rugged ridge aka omix spring are about $300us and Pro comp shocks are not that expensive either.
I run the Dobinson coils and quite like them. They are a stiff coil and i feel the slightly harder ride just works better in controlling axle movement and feels more secure on side slopes and when cornering hard. My only regret is that i didn't go with the Rubicon express shocks as the monotube design although stiffer also has advantages. Plus i'm getting sick of replacing my rear adjuster on my tough dogs as it is very vulnerable to rocks.
Hammond do appear to charge like wounded rhino's but what you are paying for is experience with heeps (sorry meant jeeps). Personally though looking at the components the price is way too much. Rugged ridge aka omix spring are about $300us and Pro comp shocks are not that expensive either.
Hi, ARB would never get out of the Jeep market. The Jeep is their way into the US market, and they are doing quite well over there. Even though they only sell spring and shocks, they are generally considered very good to exellent. I think it is particular ARB dealerships are refusing to install lift kits on JK's becasue of the problems that can arise. Who knows, they migh develop a true 50mm lift kit like they do for every other car???? a 50mm lift that can carry a load, there is even a market for this in the states. And lets face it, their bull bars are top notch. There would be very few vendors in the states who would make such a great engineered bullbar. In relation to the spring firmness, I have a small spreadsheet of most springs and theit pd/in rating, although this is only an indication. The Dobinsons are definately on the hard side with approx 240pds/in on both front and back. The ARB are around 135pds/in front and 165 in the rear. Kings and EFS make the springs around 170 in the front and 210 in ther ear. I can share the spreadsheet if you wish. I have ARB however am thinking of going to something like Kings or EFS to stiffen it up a little bit, and maybe lower it a little, especially in the rear.
PS. i think the RE mono tube shocks are Edlebrock shocks, not Bilsteins, which are suppose to be a sensational shock as well.
PS. i think the RE mono tube shocks are Edlebrock shocks, not Bilsteins, which are suppose to be a sensational shock as well.
dhard wrote:So it appears the whispers about discontinuing of the OME kit maybe true. They are probably in the process of doing a rework and the new version will hopefully be better thought out. Ring Suspension Stuff they will sell you Dobinson coils and Rubicon express dampers(rebadged Bilsteins) at a very competative price and if you don't feel confident enough to fit them any mechanic will be able to do it for you and probably charge about 2hrs labour. Other than that Mopar springs are the go but Jeep fitting prices maybe a tad high and i'd wait for the mopar shocks to be released with this setup b4 changing them.
I run the Dobinson coils and quite like them. They are a stiff coil and i feel the slightly harder ride just works better in controlling axle movement and feels more secure on side slopes and when cornering hard. My only regret is that i didn't go with the Rubicon express shocks as the monotube design although stiffer also has advantages. Plus i'm getting sick of replacing my rear adjuster on my tough dogs as it is very vulnerable to rocks.
Hammond do appear to charge like wounded rhino's but what you are paying for is experience with heeps (sorry meant jeeps). Personally though looking at the components the price is way too much. Rugged ridge aka omix spring are about $300us and Pro comp shocks are not that expensive either.
there appears to be a lot more at stake with a JK Lift.
So far from my 2.5" procomp lift i have had two major dramas. Would not recommend this lift to ANYONE, go for something like the AEV where you get all the extras like swaybar links.
My first problem with the auto rubicon is that under certain articulation the front driveshaft clips the autobox - Procomps reply is to replace the whole front driveshaft which hurts a bit after you have already installed the lift.
Second problem from the weekend is that the swaybar in disconnect mode can invert and bend the swaybar links - on the ausjeep forum this is not uncommon.
These so called experts are willing to do the lifts, etc and then when you have problems say that you really need this and this and this. Just easier ways to keep you spending i spose.
Should have done more research before ordering the lift - which the dealer did everything before we got it, we did select the options and what brands, etc - but advise should have been given to me on the cons i think.
sorry rant over
So far from my 2.5" procomp lift i have had two major dramas. Would not recommend this lift to ANYONE, go for something like the AEV where you get all the extras like swaybar links.
My first problem with the auto rubicon is that under certain articulation the front driveshaft clips the autobox - Procomps reply is to replace the whole front driveshaft which hurts a bit after you have already installed the lift.
Second problem from the weekend is that the swaybar in disconnect mode can invert and bend the swaybar links - on the ausjeep forum this is not uncommon.
These so called experts are willing to do the lifts, etc and then when you have problems say that you really need this and this and this. Just easier ways to keep you spending i spose.
Should have done more research before ordering the lift - which the dealer did everything before we got it, we did select the options and what brands, etc - but advise should have been given to me on the cons i think.
sorry rant over
www.victoriancampertrailers.com.au
www.salon13.com.au
www.salon13.com.au
If the front diff sits center under the vehicle at ride height (pan hard rod) then how can different lift brands stop that happening? You may be able to fit an adjustable pan hard rod and get the desired clearance to the Auto, even if it means the diff is not dead centre at road height (most people wouldn't notice up to 1/2 inch anyway). If you have the most articulation/longest shocks for maximum droop then the chances of things fouling will be greater As the diff experiences more sideways travel). Is another lift kit with shorter shocks and less articulation that eleimates the problem of the fouling a better lift kit or just a more limited one? I agree that lift kits should work as they are fitted but being in the industry I know that many consumers are price driven not quality driven. I have a manual 4 door JK now and it had a Pro Comp lift fitted as it at on the dealership floor. It works fine but I know It could be better but it would be at a price.corkhead wrote:there appears to be a lot more at stake with a JK Lift.
So far from my 2.5" procomp lift i have had two major dramas. Would not recommend this lift to ANYONE, go for something like the AEV where you get all the extras like swaybar links.
My first problem with the auto rubicon is that under certain articulation the front driveshaft clips the autobox - Procomps reply is to replace the whole front driveshaft which hurts a bit after you have already installed the lift.
Second problem from the weekend is that the swaybar in disconnect mode can invert and bend the swaybar links - on the ausjeep forum this is not uncommon.
These so called experts are willing to do the lifts, etc and then when you have problems say that you really need this and this and this. Just easier ways to keep you spending i spose.
Should have done more research before ordering the lift - which the dealer did everything before we got it, we did select the options and what brands, etc - but advise should have been given to me on the cons i think.
sorry rant over
-Pre trip inspections/ servicing
-Suspension/ custom modifications
-4wd Dyno & tuning
-Qualified mechanics
-Suspension/ custom modifications
-4wd Dyno & tuning
-Qualified mechanics
You're spot on. An adjustable panhard rod WILL allow you to move the axle far enough over to the left for it the driveshaft to clear the auto transmission.PGS 4WD wrote:If the front diff sits center under the vehicle at ride height (pan hard rod) then how can different lift brands stop that happening? You may be able to fit an adjustable pan hard rod and get the desired clearance to the Auto, even if it means the diff is not dead centre at road height (most people wouldn't notice up to 1/2 inch anyway). If you have the most articulation/longest shocks for maximum droop then the chances of things fouling will be greater As the diff experiences more sideways travel). Is another lift kit with shorter shocks and less articulation that eleimates the problem of the fouling a better lift kit or just a more limited one? I agree that lift kits should work as they are fitted but being in the industry I know that many consumers are price driven not quality driven. I have a manual 4 door JK now and it had a Pro Comp lift fitted as it at on the dealership floor. It works fine but I know It could be better but it would be at a price.corkhead wrote:there appears to be a lot more at stake with a JK Lift.
So far from my 2.5" procomp lift i have had two major dramas. Would not recommend this lift to ANYONE, go for something like the AEV where you get all the extras like swaybar links.
My first problem with the auto rubicon is that under certain articulation the front driveshaft clips the autobox - Procomps reply is to replace the whole front driveshaft which hurts a bit after you have already installed the lift.
Second problem from the weekend is that the swaybar in disconnect mode can invert and bend the swaybar links - on the ausjeep forum this is not uncommon.
These so called experts are willing to do the lifts, etc and then when you have problems say that you really need this and this and this. Just easier ways to keep you spending i spose.
Should have done more research before ordering the lift - which the dealer did everything before we got it, we did select the options and what brands, etc - but advise should have been given to me on the cons i think.
sorry rant over
I was able to fine tune one enough to do this and this was a diesel which has a bigger 5spd auto so even less clearance. That was with roughly 27" extended front shocks too which is an epic amount of articulation (actually at the limit of the front uni joint on the driveshaft and also ball joints on the drag link) of articulation. Way past the limits of the factory control arms which were being twisted into oblivion and also bending the brackets on the axle.
The panhard alignment wouldn't have been really noticeable either unless you were to put big offset wheels on it.
The JK monotibes are Bilstien - it's stamped into them.jktom wrote: PS. i think the RE mono tube shocks are Edlebrock shocks, not Bilsteins, which are suppose to be a sensational shock as well.
The others are apparently Edlebrock (according to my RE Account manager) but there's no markings on them to suggest one way or the other. But bang for $$ we believe they are pretty hard to beat.
Oh yeah theres a lot of companies out here that do rigged ridge. Some even have all their products on the websites.
Cheers [url=http://www.wooders.com.au]Wooders[/url]
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