How do I remove the oil pump 6g74

[Guy]

The crank shaft cam belt pulley .. I cant see an way of getting it off , no lip to put a jawed puller on. no bolt holes to use


Any ideas ?

[steverisingsun]

It just slides off. If it won't move you may need to use levers behind it and if its rusted, heat. Use caution as there is a timing plate behind the gear.

[steverisingsun]

To take the oil pump off you must drop the sump

[Guy]

The pajero one was STUCK ... rusted solid ..stuff abtou with it for ages..

One a whim I tried the magne one .. slid off with two fingers .. So out with the die grinder and 3 legged puller on the pajero one .. was a battle but it came off .. the oil pump, sump, etc all went in the hot tank and came out shiny and clean .. reassembling magna powered pajero this evening ...

[date]

To quote Elmer Fudd, be very very careful! The cam belt pulley does slide off with a bit of gentle persuasion. I did it and bent the crank angle sensor plate behind the pulley. I thought I had straightened it well enough, but again I was proven wrong and it stuffed the crank angle sensor. If you do bend the cam plate, either replace it or at least panel beat it back into shape. There is probably less than 0.5 mm clearance either side (front and back) between the sensor and the cam plate, so you have to get it pretty good. Mine is OK now, but I did stuff the sensor and it was from memory about $150 to replace it.

You cannot check the clearance when you start reassembling the cam belt etc because you cannot turn the engine without having the cams turn as well, so you can only check the clearance front and back and hope that the runout of the cam plate is less than the clearance. Once the cam belt is on, you cannot really get in to check anything.

I would try wrapping a piece of heavy leather around the pulley teeth and compressing the leather and pulling on that. There isn't much room to get in there. Failing that, do what I did and use a tyre lever and bend the cam plate. Put some grease or some lubricant on it so that next time it ocmes off easier.

[nervis]

mechanic mate of mine told me that at times the only way to get them (crank pulley) off is to split them in half with a cold chissel.. then just buy a new one... not good eh..

[pajero66]

The correct way if they don't just slide off is to drill 2 holes 5.5mm in dia and tap them to 6mm threads then using a harmonic balancer remover pulley and long 6mm bolts they come off nice and easy. It is recommended that once drilled and tapped that the gear be replaced although i have reused them before and never had any problems.

[Turbo Tonka]

you would want to drill the hole to 5mm not 5.5mm being for a m6x1.0 thread,otherwise you have bugger all meat there when tapping the thread.

Apart from that it seems like a better idea and im just having a shyt stir,no rudeness intended

[-Scott-]

you would want to drill the hole to 5mm not 5.5mm being for a m6x1.0 thread,otherwise you have bugger all meat there when tapping the thread.

Apart from that it seems like a better idea and im just having a shyt stir,no rudeness intended

Good point. In reality, it depends on the tap. If it's a traditional tap which cuts the thread, they 5.0 is probably the better option.

If it's a roll tap, a 5.5 hole would be closer to the mark - in my opinion.

However, as the type of tap wasn't specified, it is probably safer to presume a traditional tap would be used, and 5.0 would be the appropriate size drill to use.

[Turbo Tonka]

thread diameter minus pitch of thread equals drilling diameter.

eg m8x 1.25 has 6.75 drill so good luck

whats a roll tap scott??dunno if its a silly question or not ive just never heard or seen?

[smccask]

i tapped 2 holes and pulled mine on 6g72, and did not replace pulley. Engine is fine after 2 years and 40k km

[-Scott-]

whats a roll tap scott??dunno if its a silly question or not ive just never heard or seen?

A roll tap doesn't have any cutting edges like a traditional tap - it "forms" the thread by deformation instead.

I was told they make a stonger thread (sort of "forged") but needs a larger hole, so that there is somewhere for the thread material to deform to.

When I was doing this sort of stuff, most of the time we'd use a simple cutting tap, but occasionally we'd specifiy a roll tap. I don't remember why we'd change...