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Bought a 85 4 runner with a 3y motor a few months ago, slowly fixing it up. I've had the head machined (rusted water gallery) new head gasket, lapped valves, new valve seals, swivel hub kit and axle seals, checked the wheel bearings, new front brake seals, just need to check the rear axle seals and brakes seals and fix a fair bit of rust (only body chassis seems fine).
Anyway to the real question it's currently stock suspension from what I can tell with 31x10.5's but was thinking of 33x12's. Looking at buying ifs rear leafs, putting rears up front, extended shackles (50 or 75mm), inboarded shock mounts, maybe 1-2" body lift, probably have to put in different diff gears too to get the 3y to even move lol.
Just wondering if this will be enough to comfortably run 33x12's offroad without scrubbing or heavy mods to guards?
Last edited by Roboat on Tue Mar 30, 2010 8:33 pm, edited 4 times in total.
I had a 3Y in my 4runner. Not the fastest thing in the world running 35s on stock ratios i admit.
The 4runner has 4.88s as stock ratios so you can only change to 5.29s which you need a 4.55 diff centre to put them in as the 4.88 centre is offset too much.
With 2inch IFS rears, 2inch RUF, and 2inch BL you will clear 33s easy.
35s will fit and 37s may just scrub in.
I had 37s on my 4runner with the 3Y and it kept pumping along.
You should had looked around for a 4Y as they go a little bit better and would had been the price of all the head work you had done.
Cheers
Dan
'84 4Runner, 2.4TD, 12psi Boost, 4" Suspension, 2" Body, 4.88's, 35's, Narva Spotties, Winch, Power Steering, MTX Sub, Racing Seats, Front Auto Lokka, Crawler Gears
dans-paj92 wrote:I had a 3Y in my 4runner. Not the fastest thing in the world running 35s on stock ratios i admit.
The 4runner has 4.88s as stock ratios so you can only change to 5.29s which you need a 4.55 diff centre to put them in as the 4.88 centre is offset too much.
With 2inch IFS rears, 2inch RUF, and 2inch BL you will clear 33s easy.
35s will fit and 37s may just scrub in.
I had 37s on my 4runner with the 3Y and it kept pumping along.
You should had looked around for a 4Y as they go a little bit better and would had been the price of all the head work you had done.
Cheers
Dan
Oh sorry forgot to mention the truck cost me $200, with 31x10.5's, 2 hella spotties (not sure what they actually are though) and a tjm alloy bullbar.
Would it be better to do 3" ifs anf 3" ruf with 1" body lift? I've guessing with just that I will need a new torque rod, histeer (ruf moves the front diff forward right?), long travel shocks (standard will limit flex right) and inboarded shock mounts will help too.
Hey bud first thing id be doing is going through some build threads
But the simple answers are with RUF it will move your diff forward enough to clear 33's even with only 2'' lifted springs and 2'' extended shackles you will have heaps of room but you will need high steer to make it effective and longer shocks, brake lines etc and dont inboard your shocks too much it makes them useless.
Steer clear of a body lift if only running 33's its just pointless.
Oh and if youve got some cash and wanna just do it once and get the best out of it look at the locktup suspension kits.
BOBBED 84' 4Runner 2.8L Chugger
35's, Locker's, High steer, RUF, 4 link rear, Crawler Gears.
Righto guys, first thing's first, Will a ifs box from a 86 (ifs) 4runner do the job for histeer? Looking at just getting the locktup 4x4 stage 1 histeer kit.
Looks like this will have to be my first option before I even look at lifting this thing. At least this way I have the freedom to go with what ever I want really as the standard steering is so limited being that it will foul up by moving the diff even 1 inch.
Edit:Oh and would it be a good idea to steal the power steering lines off the truck i'm getting the ifs box from?
Last edited by Roboat on Mon Mar 29, 2010 9:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Yep, that steering box will be fine for the high steer conversion.
As 4RUNNER_01 said have a look at all the Hilux and 4Runner build threads in the members area to see what can be done. Also have a look at the Hilux bible on this site and also at Pirate4x4, which is a Yank site with lots of good info.
Been looking around and it seems I may need to play with the load springs/loading of the springs for the RUF to take the extra weight of the engine. I would of thought the rear springs would be weighted up for the extra weight being a 4runner and for load carrying capability?
As well being that extended shackles aren't road legal guess i'll have to get it all on the road then fiddle around with it. Truck isn't my daily or anything just something to knock around.
Either i'll need extended shackles unless I want to move the spring hangers, thing is though what are your shackle angles (what ever length you have) like with standard RUF and standard IFS springs?
Is it better to run longer shackles or move spring hangers and use standard shackles?
Hey shouldn't have to worry about the load on the springs they should be rated to carry the extra weight of the engine already and i don't know of anyone that got H/D packs made up to handle the weight it doesn't worry them.
And if it's not your daily i wouldn't worry too much about having extended shackles on it, as high steer isn't legal without engineering anyway. and you'll need at least 160mm shackles for RUF and 220mm shackles for IFS rears if you dont wanna move mounts.
BOBBED 84' 4Runner 2.8L Chugger
35's, Locker's, High steer, RUF, 4 link rear, Crawler Gears.
Got my rocker cover on and all is sweet, seems like if I leave the car not running for maybe 2-3 weeks it's a prick to start, seems to lose fuel prime in the fuel lines. Has all new hoses, clamps, fuel filter and there's fuel in the tank. Will update first post with pics of the car and a bit of work (once the site lets me).
Edit: Just learnt that the carby does gum up and the choke doesn't seem like it closes when cold so that makes sense to me, will get some carby cleaner tomorrow.
