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Wire

For all things Electrical.

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The Haggler!
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Wire

Post by ToNkA »

I am running in cab switches for the winch, solenoid etc...

What guage wire should I use for this stuff?
Also what guage wire for spotlights?

Anyone got a run down on what wire for what use. I need to buy some soon, and want to make sure I buy the right stuff that will cover everything.

Going to pull dash and wire everything in one go.
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Post by Heathx4 »

Rather than buying based on gauge, I'd be looking for a current rating. Add up the maximum possible current the loads on your wire could draw, add a generous safety margin (100% say) and buy wire that is rated to handle that current flow.

And make sure you use a fuse that will blow before your wire ignites (but after your loads power up).
* Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool *
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Post by spazbot »

tonka is yours a 3pin high mount ??
if so, just use some power cable, they type they use for extension leads, works a treat
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Post by Shorty40 »

Tonka,

Give M&M a buzz. They just wired up my hi mount with the in cab switch ;)
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Post by Macca177 »

yeah go for rated wire for more current/amps that u will use for each electrical device!
Cheers, Hayden!
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Post by Kev80 »

Concidering the winch solinoids only draw bugger all current you could use a light gauge wire like the cable used for trailer light wiring, good flexable stranded wire plus its double insulated.

For the spotties i would use a heaver wire like a 6mm2 stranded automotive cabe that also is double insulated. (single pair)
Avaliable from any auto electrical workshop.
A 30 amp fuse will be ok.

Too smaller cable & you will have voltage drop resulting in dimmer spot lights.
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Post by +dj_hansen+ »

For my 100 watt spotties i used 12 guage (?), 30 amp auto cable from jaycar with a 25a fuse, think it was around $2 per m max.
The problem with using the cable they use for running power is that its solid, and therefore over 12volts you get a voltage drop even over the short distance, better to get some like flex 8 speaker cable, or like suggested trailer loom cable.. that should be fine for the controller.
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Post by Kev80 »

+dj_hansen+ wrote:The problem with using the cable they use for running power is that its solid, and therefore over 12volts you get a voltage drop even over the short distance


Not true, normal household cable is from memory 7 strand, years ago they used solid single core cable.( 20+ years)

The reason they changed from the solid core is it obviously doesnt flex well & will brake instead under stress.

As for the voltage drop it doesnt make any difference if its solid or stranded, it has the same resistance wich is only effected by the diameter of the conductor.

Its recomended to only use stranded automotive cable in cars so the conductor doesnt brake when subjected to stress from all the bumps etc.
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Post by Josh_GQ »

They still use 1, 1.5 and 2.5mm solid core cable.
but they should ban it cause every time you take apart something that has been wired with it breaks the copper.
It shits me!
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Post by DAZZ »

I thought that stranded wire was better then single core cos there is more surface area on stranded wire so it can conduct more electrons and carry more current......

I have been wrong before!!!! :cool: :cool:
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Post by Kev80 »

Nah, 1mm2 solid wire has the same diameter as 1mm2 stranded so the surface area would be the same.

Its just a flexability thing.
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Wire

Post by RRover85 »

Single core solid wire is only for domestic electrical not for auto electrical... wiring up driving lights on a vehicle if properly wired with a relay there shouldnt be any voltage drop over the system...

For the driving light wiring go to an autolecs and get 5 or 6mm twin core flex... either will be heavy enough.. and as for fuse size a 20amp fuse would be big enough for the driving lights if running 100w globes and 15amp fuse for 55w globes

Also while at the autoelecs ask them for 3 core 3mm for the solenoid wiring that way its just one cable through the engine bay with all three circuits and the 3mm will be heavy enough for the solenoid switching circuit...
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Post by Kev80 »

Do you mean 3mm2 (squared) ?

Thats big cable for a control circuit.
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wire

Post by RRover85 »

Thats how you measure wire these days... stuffed if i know how they get the 3mm but thats how they do it... stereo wiring goes in gauges, starter cable etc goes in B&S sizes and normal automotive wiring goes in mm... 3mm wiring is small as... you can go smaller of course but i dont think they sell it in 3 core... plus 3mm is a good all round size for that application.... well thats what i use and im an auto electrician.......
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Post by ORSM45 »

get an extension cord and chop it up. 2.5mm2 flex. its in 3 core. and its double insulated.
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Post by DAZZ »

Guys, just use what you want, if it works fine then all is good. But if it all goes pair shaped and the special smoke excapes out of your stuff, then maybe the right gear for the job might have been a good idea...

Seems that a lot of guys these days are quite happy to buy the best tyres or the suspension gear they can buy but go cheap on buying, fitting and wiring up their electrical gear..... Why???
09 Cruiser Tray ARB Bull Bar/side bars, dual batts, 3" Superiour lift, MTZs, other stuff. More to come!!!
90 Sierra Soft top, 3" body 2" spring lift, 31" Claws, 5.14 Calmini, more to do.
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