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Panel Protection ?

General Tech Talk

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Panel Protection ?

Post by roadrunner »

About to put some protection on the rear quarters and sills on the Vitara.

I was looking at 3mm checker plate in either mild steel or Aluminium.

Anybody done it, and if so any preferences as to material or thickness ??

Probably use it to fill in some gaps under the arches too, after I take to them with a grinder and big hammer. MTR's - Gotta love 'em ;)
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Post by roadrunner »

63 views and not one opinion







:?
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Post by antt »

ooooh, what size mtr's?

how were you gonna attach the aluminum to the panels? cause as you probably already know, the panels on the vits are pretty thin, so they'd probably need some sorta support
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Post by grimbo »

I have used 3mm chequer plate as sill guards on my Sierra. They are attached by rivets straight to the body. I then bent a lip under so it sits on the body seam. I have had this etup for about 7 years and they haveone fairly deep dent. They have been abused, hi lift jacked off and hit with small cars
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Post by ausyota »

Doesnt crap get between the two layers and cause the pannel to rust out?
It seems as though it would :?
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Post by Guy »

ausyota wrote:Doesnt crap get between the two layers and cause the pannel to rust out?
It seems as though it would :?


when I did the rear corners of mine, I painted under them with bitumenous paint .. as well as sealed the egges with silicone so it should not rust under there (not that I really give a crap anymore :D )
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Post by grimbo »

ausyota wrote:Doesnt crap get between the two layers and cause the pannel to rust out?
It seems as though it would :?


Hasn't happened yet and I certainly get the Zuk muddy. There is enough of a gap that it msut get washed out when I clean the car. As long as your paint is ok ie no bits missing it should be ok.
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Post by roadrunner »

I had planned to pop rivet the checker plate onto the panels and tech screw it to the sills, but I wasn't sure if 3mm was up to the task.

Also I was going to run a bead of silicone around the edges to keep out the crud.

Aluminium or mild steel is the stumbling point as I'm not sure if aluminium would be strong enough or if the steel will add to much weight.
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Post by roadrunner »

aant, I run 31 inch MTR's on the normal F100 offset.

Have 2 inch lift and two inch body lift.

Scraps a little here and there but am going to trim here and there with old man grinder and big hammer. :lol:
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Post by V8Patrol »

I wouldnt use silicon to seal it with....

Silicon has an acid base in it and therfore obviously causes rust in the long term, use a sealer that is specificy designed for body work IE: "urathane".

With a liberal coat of urathane you could almost forget the tek screws n pop riverts, mind you I wont be offering to remove the stuff for you, its that strong.
urathane would also take pressure washing, detergents, scratches, water, stone chiping, etc that silicon wont handle for any great period of time/abuse.

If you've never used urathane b4....
Mask up any areas that you DONT wont it on
Use rubber gloves..... it takes me 2 -3 weeks to wear it off of my fingers !
Wear old clothes.... it"ll take months of washes to get it out of ya jeans !
Practice applying it b4 ya start, once its there its hard to remove!
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Post by bigsteve »

Just leave them - panel damage is way cooler than checker plate
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Post by N*A*M »

then why didn't you keep the battered hard top?

imho, panel damage should be minimized. if joe public sees our mangled cars, he will doubt our ability and intention to look after the bush if we can't even look after our own rigs. checker plate can still be painted to color match.
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Post by roadrunner »

V8Patrol, I had thought of using industrial adhesives, but figured they would be more corrosive than the screw holes and Silicon. :?

Went out today and had a look at some Polymer type glues, might be the go for the rear quaters and so on although I think for the sills I'd screw them on to allow for removal if ( when ) damaged :roll:

My old Landcruiser used to be pulled over regularly and on asking Mr Plod, found that he was attracted to the slightly bent panels ( I had rolled it twice in a year and never bothered to straighten anything :D )

Still haven't decided on mild steel or Aluminium though.
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Post by bj56 »

v8patrols right urathane would be the way to go urathane(panle beaters magic) would do very well iv senn rust holes urathaneed up and boged over last for a few years :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: good shit
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Post by grimbo »

Don't seal it up as it will keep more crud in then t will keep out. it needs to be able o get high pressure water in behnd to keep it clean
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Post by RaginRover »

V8Patrol wrote:I wouldnt use silicon to seal it with....

Silicon has an acid base in it and therfore obviously causes rust in the long term, use a sealer that is specificy designed for body work IE: "urathane".


Neurtal cure ??

Clean the surface down with thinners then seal it up .. works on rangies ??
had a set of rock sliders sealed up on my sills for about a year, when I pealed them off no rust, no crap trapped in them all sweet, cleaned the silicon left overs and it was sweet as

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Post by V8Patrol »

grimbo wrote:Don't seal it up as it will keep more crud in then t will keep out. it needs to be able o get high pressure water in behnd to keep it clean


Tend to dissagree with ya grimbo... reasons being ...

for "crud" to be flushed clear then a reasonable cavity/space would be needed, this inturn places more load on the method of attachment be it either popriverts or tek screws, further more with a larger cavity/space this would allow larger bits of crud to become lodged between the original sill and the new additional "bash sill".

surfaces which tend to rust out first are the areas which have a close relationship to another surface... IE: door skin to door frame joint, front 1/4 panel to sill, outer sill to inner sill joint. These close contact joints hold crud and moisture and lead to early rust, the problem is we dont see the rust untill it breakes through to the outer surface, at which point in time its too late to prevent.

popriverts are traditionally alloy but the need here for steel popriverts is obvious for strength reasons, these steel riverts are generaly electrically coated with a rust inhibitor, while this seems good they too also cause premature rusting..... works like this....
The higher quality material always corrodes the lesser quality material before it its self becomes victim to the corosion process it started in the first place.
Examples of this are
the lead we see on the keels of steel boats --- lead corrodes away first
lead on the bottom fin of an alloy outboard motor --- as above,
brass battery terminal to lead post --- brass corrodes away first,

I worked with a carpenter a few years back and got told off big time for putting the galv nails in my mouth ..... the saliva causes the galv nails to corrode, I thought he was full of it ....2 years later I had to replace the lattice work because the nails I had used har rotted away !!

With tek screws the same applys, they are electricly coated with a rust inhibitor. They cause corrosion through the same process as above.... they are the stronger material.
With these screws they drill their own hole and again this leaves unprotected steel shavings either inside the sill, or between the sill and "bash sill" again causing early corrosion.

Things that cause corrosion to steel....

minerals
such as salt, found in all soils/mud etc to varying degrees of amounts

water
usually where it tends to sit for long periods or between unpainted/protected areas of steel.

metal
the close proximity of a stronger/weaker material ( IE alloy/lead/brass/stainless steel/electro plated steels.

raw steel
unpainted steel placed in close proximity to either painted or unpainted steel

Any combination of 2 or more of the above causes an even more rapid corrosion process

If it were me doing this mod...

Press up 3mm checker plate ( steel ) to fit as close as possiable to the sill area I wished to protect,
Clean the original sill with steel wool or similar
Run a large bead of urathane around the outer edge of the bash sill aswell as several dollops along the middle line of the bash sill,
Coat the new bash sill's inner face with ARP ( a waxed based anti rust protection ) except on the urathane ofcourse
And then place it on the sill under load, IE : jack it, strap it, chain it, block it......
Leave it to cure for a day,
Paint the outer surface including the urathane.

:D but thats what I'd do :D
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Post by roadrunner »

Righto, thanks for all your advice..

I've decided on 3mm aluminium secured with urathane for the quarter panels and lower doors ( thanks V8Patrol ) ;)

For the sills I'm going to use 4mm mild steel srewed into position to allow me to get them off reasonably easy if I need too.

Your advice made for informative reading and some good arguments for and against the different styles !

Pic's to come when I get them done :D
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Post by roadrunner »

And V8Patrol gets a double arms up for the longest post I've ever read ! :D :armsup: :armsup:
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Post by V8Patrol »

:rofl: .... I'll just add that to my "padwhore" collection :armsup:

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