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toyota surf engine conversions???

Tech Talk for Cruiser owners.

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toyota surf engine conversions???

Post by dbeverett »

ive got a 92 turbo diesel surf with no motor box or transfer case in it and a single cab hilux with a 300hp 1g gte in it and running, basicly i wanna get the 1g into the surf but have no idea what box/ transfer case i should be looking for? apparently the 1g are a direct bolt to the 22r gearbox but will they bolt in to my frame? really need some opinions so i can get this project up and running


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Post by macca81 »

use the box that it is bolted to in the hilux?
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Post by dbeverett »

how do i go about that with a transfer case? this is my first 4x4 so i really dont have a clue what im talking about
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Post by dbeverett »

sorry i forgot to mention the single cab hilux is a 2wd
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Post by -Nemesis- »

Manual or Auto?


If you use a Hilux gearbox with 300hp it should get you out your driveway maybe, before it breaks.

Manual, use/find an R150 from a manual V6 runner or Surf.
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Post by dbeverett »

will the r150 box bolt in to my frame and to my motor? will i need custom bellhousings etc etc, 300hp is on about 18psi, im not opposed to dropping it down to 12psi for abit of gearbox longevity
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Post by -Nemesis- »

Even a non turbo 6 will kill the G52 Hilux box.

Have you done an engine conversion before?

Basically, you'll never get an engine from a different car, to bolt into the 'frame' of any other vehicle or 4WD.

You will need custom engine mounts and a custom/modded gearbox crossmember at the least. Different driveshafts, different exhaust, different.....


I think the 1g conversion is popular in the minitruck scene, maybe try downundertruckin or toymods. I know the straight six barely fits in the engine bay of a lux as it is, radiator will probably have to be sunk into, or mounted out the front of the radiator support panel.
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Post by dbeverett »

yeah done quiet afew engine conversions, vn v6 into a 2wd bagged sectioned rodeo with a custom firewall and the motor mounted halfway through it, custom crossmembers, one piece shaft etc etc.
i know alot of people have put the 1g into earlier 4x4 lux's and bolted it straight to there original gearbox using the standard 1g flywheel and clutch. you modify 3y engine mounts to mount the motor. its already been in and running in a 2wd lux, similar firewall and engine bay dimensions??? so the radiator, intercooler, motor etc etc should all fit no problems

i just need to know what gearbox/transfer case will bolt in to my frame using the standard crossmembers and driveshafts that will accept a 1g motor, ive been told the w series box is a direct bolt up but i dont know if that will bolt into my frame.
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Post by -Nemesis- »

Worst case, you may have to mod the crossmember. Surely the gearbox wont sit in the indentical spot with a 6 in the front.

My gearbox went back about 40mm for the 1UZ to sit as far back as possible. I just made up some plates allowing it bolt back 40mm and up an inch or so (body lift)
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Post by dbeverett »

how strong are the w series box's? they seem like my best option at the moment for ease of instillation. im hoping the box can stay in the same spot but if i have to kick it back abit it's not the end of the world. im not scared to get custom on it new cross members and tailshafts etc etc but i'd really just be after something abit closer to bolt in at the moment so it doesnt end up another project that never gets finished
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Post by -Nemesis- »

I reckon your best bet would be to hunt down a supra turbo R154 box, already 2WD, good ratio's, more than strong enough.

I don't think they're that cheap though these days
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Post by dbeverett »

why would i want a 2wd box? ive already got one of those, i want to go 4wd.
the motors in and running in a 2wd lux. i want it in the surf which has no motor box or transfer case
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Post by skiddz »

-Nemesis- wrote:I reckon your best bet would be to hunt down a supra turbo R154 box, already 2WD, good ratio's, more than strong enough.

I don't think they're that cheap though these days
The r154 was only ever mated to the #JZ series engine in the supra, thereby making it a silly choice given the need for custom bits and bobs

The w55/57/58 is a better choice given that they were A; behind the 1G engines in cresidas/supras/soarers. and B; if you can find the right bellhousing it will all bolt up as they have an almost identical bolt pattern onto the x member as a G52.

now, the R series and the G series have the same mounting face on the back of the block so a G52 from a 22R should go on there with relative ease. also an old "celica" box, the steel cased W50 could be an option

The G52 and the W5# boxes are nearly identical in physical size and shape, all that differs is shifter position, ratios and the bolt pattern of the rear end (presumably for T-case mounting). I am also pretty sure they are nearly identical strength wise.

In my opinion there is no way on this planet that a 1GGTE no matter how crazy it is will break a W5# or for that matter a G5#,

so leave the G52 I recon

remember kids its torque that kills thy drivetrain not killer wasps
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Post by dbeverett »

the g52 are the manuals behind the 2lte im assuming? mine was an auto originally but regardless none of it is in now. poked my head underneath today and the crossmembers seem to bolt in so if i sourced a w56 box and transfer case it should be a pretty straight forward swap even if i chase up the w56 crossmembers and mod them to fit?
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Post by ferrit »

My non turbo, 2.8D, with all of 60kw/192nM of toyota's finest diesel fury broke a G525 gearbox.

They are weak as piss for horsepower.

Hell, i broke an R151F about a month after dropping a 100kw 1KZ-TE 3.0TD motor into my lux. Tore the input shaft teeth off! :shock:
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Post by -Nemesis- »

dbeverett wrote:why would i want a 2wd box? ive already got one of those, i want to go 4wd.
the motors in and running in a 2wd lux. i want it in the surf which has no motor box or transfer case
Yeah my bad, the last thing I read was your 3rd post and started thinking backwards!


I had no idea about the bolt patterns mentioned above, good info though.

As for the G52 recommendation, have a search. People break them every day with commo v6's. Many break them with standard engines. I would steer clear.

Boost into a 6 cylinder engine means a lot of torque, even if it's at the expense of higher revs. It will still snap it!
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Post by -Nemesis- »

ferrit wrote: Hell, i broke an R151F about a month after dropping a 100kw 1KZ-TE 3.0TD motor into my lux. Tore the input shaft teeth off! :shock:
Rough on the gear!?

I've been running over 400hp through my 200,000km old R150 for 18 months now, still like it was when stock. The only thing I've noticed is a slight whine when compression braking in 2nd, been doing that for ages though...
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Post by dbeverett »

all good man, im not afraid of abit of fab its just i know there should be a configuration that will pretty much be a bolt up affair. whats this 400hp business your talking about? im from penrith, didnt think there was anything that tough around here
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Post by Rota »

The 1ggte will bolt up to the g52 using the 1ggte bellhousing and if you dont do any clutch dumps and punnish it it should last for a while. A g52 with slotted gearbox mounts should fit in the 4runner (fits my hilux, they are very similar).
Custom engine mounts would be the go, the 3y ones work but are a bit off a hit and a miss as hiluxs vary from one to another. I used them but they dont fit the best and it would have been easier to just make custom ones from the start.

The r150/r151 that came out in the 4runner and surf are alot stronger though. If you can find someone that can mate your 1ggte to an r series box then you are laughing. (i have looked and cant find a bellhousing or adaptor plate)

Allthough if you have a big turbo on your 1ggte then the lack of low down power can be annoying when 4wding. But you could allways put a smaller turbo in later if you wanted?

You could allways sell your hilux and use the money for a 1jz,2jz or 1uz conversion.
They are alot easier to find adaptor/bellhousings for the r150/r151.
1uz +supercharger would be joy.

Or even get a hilux 2.7L (3rz) and turbo it, that looks easiest for fitment.
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Post by ferrit »

-Nemesis- wrote:
ferrit wrote: Hell, i broke an R151F about a month after dropping a 100kw 1KZ-TE 3.0TD motor into my lux. Tore the input shaft teeth off! :shock:
Rough on the gear!?

I've been running over 400hp through my 200,000km old R150 for 18 months now, still like it was when stock. The only thing I've noticed is a slight whine when compression braking in 2nd, been doing that for ages though...
Put my foot down flat in 5th gear at 80kph on the freeway and it tore apart! Gearbox was only around 100,000kms old too.

Im now running an R150 from a D4D lux, no issues with that one, but the R151 is a weaker cousin to the R150
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Post by -Nemesis- »

dbeverett wrote:all good man, im not afraid of abit of fab its just i know there should be a configuration that will pretty much be a bolt up affair. whats this 400hp business your talking about? im from penrith, didnt think there was anything that tough around here

Blue 4runner on 33" Mickey T's and Classic locks. Running a blown 1UZ, intercooled (front mount) Procharger P1SC and sequential vapour LPG injection. Last dyno run was just shy of 350rwhp at 10psi. Had it squeezed up to around 12psi for the last 6 months, but it's just dropped a ring on me.

This is at around 6psi, never got it on video full strap mode unfortunately.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EpjJI4vieXA

Not bad for an 18 year old unopened engine. Boost and a good tune = reliable HP all day from the mighty quad cam (mine had a DIY street tune in the end, which ended it lol.)


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Post by Rory »

foot flat at 80s ur problem, huge loading.
I think to break a gearbox, even a weak g52 u are abusing it or not maintaining it, hell i have abused mine to no end and its still holding up, a lil noisey but holding up.
That includes 12minutes of flat to the floor abuse at logan challange. I how ever do have mechanical sympathy on it whilst changing gears tho and dont stall it up and drop it(my soft ass leafs wont let me anyway id pull the pinon out of the diff).

edit 1-before i get flammed about the g52 - i understand g52s are a weaker box than the w and r boxs, but i dont think they are as weak as everyone makes them out to be, aslong as you know its a weak point and drive it with that in mind abit.
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Post by -Nemesis- »

Comes back to that same old thing though, if you're going to do something custom, may as well do it right the first time.

I know I'd rather know you can drive normally, than have to baby a gearbox and be forever paranoid, when you could have put the right thing in the first time.

I should mention I'm sympathetic 90% of the time with my R series too, probably why it's lasted so well. I've only pulled 3rd and lost traction once or twice at 100km/h :armsup:
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Post by Rory »

I treat my g52 the same as i would treat any gearbox, if it breaks it doesnt worry me to much, but it hasnt yet.
I just think alot of ppl go on about broken g52s and im sure they have broken them, but they must have abused them alot.
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Post by berad »

indeed, i had a 3sgte with a gt30r turbo bolted next to a camry grandma spec box and never broke it in 2 years driving it like i stole it, all comes down to how you control the motor/clutch etc etc, you'll break any box if your an arsehat, not to say people dont buy 2nd hand dud's to begin with which causes problems, a look at the oil and selector etc will give you a fair idea.

I'll be running a g52 behind my forged 3rzfe+t, i wouldn't dream of shelling out 1500 for a r series box that could be on the way out anyway, although they are a tough and proven box. Pull a g52,w56 etc down and they always break 3rd, the bearing and shaft is to small, 3rd gear is the money gear and alot of torque is put on it as the tyres struggle to spin as much as 1st n 2nd IMO, take it a little bit easy on that change and it will last longer.

You should rarely break a box in the bush IMO also.

If that was my blown 1uz, i would have just used the a340 auto box that would have came with the motor, bought a shift kit, stally and manual computer from mv automatics and would have driven better, smoother, more reliable, can lock the convertor up which comes in handy etc etc.
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Post by HG »

R series gearboxes are the go for a manual V8.
They are all the same strength wise just different ratios.

R150F
A 4WD transmission found in many Toyota trucks. [V6 3VZE and 5VZ-FE, Turbo Diesel]
Ratios:
First Gear: 3.830:1
Second Gear: 2.062:1
Third Gear: 1.436:1
Fourth Gear: 1.00:1
Fifth Gear: 0.838:1

R151F
A 4WD transmission found in many Toyota trucks. [Turbo RTE 1986 and 1995 ]
Ratios:
First Gear: 4.313:1
Second Gear: 2.330:1
Third Gear: 1.436:1
Fourth Gear: 1.00:1
Fifth Gear: 0.838:1

R155F
A 4WD transmission found in 2nd Generation (2005+) Toyota Tacomas.
First Gear: 3.95:1
Second Gear: 2.06:1
Third Gear: 1.44:1
Fourth Gear: 1.00:1
Fifth Gear: 0.81:1
Reverse Gear: 4.22:1

I run an R151F behind my turboV8 daily driver, it has over 500hp and the gearbox is original from the Diesel days. I have ripped clutches apart, corkscrewed tailshafts, snapped axles & hub studs and the mighty R151 has held in there
:armsup: .
dbeverett your gonna have an easy swap if you decide to go with the Holden V8 as it is a bolt in direct onto the Diesels engine mount using the Holden mounts and if you source an R-series box you will need the standard 5 speed Diesel gearbox X-member and it will bolt straight in.....Hell even the tailshafts are the standard fitment, makes for a quick and painless install.
I used a Dellows bellhousing when I did mine and in 9 days I was driving on the road.
Engineer will love the fact that nothing is welded to the chassis to do this swap.
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