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Getting rid of the 6.5 diseasel
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
Getting rid of the 6.5 diseasel
The chev in my 60 needs work, the head gasket is blown and pressurising the radiator, looks to be roughly $3500 from undoing the first bolt to doing the last one back up, possibly more.
I weighed up the options and the benefits and have decided im gonna go with a LS1 or similar looking for one with less than 100k on it preferrably out of a write off.
The conversion should be really simple, engine mounts, bellhousing and that should be it as far as fitting it in goes.
Obviously installing the computer and all but i will get a sparky to do it all, im excited to get it underway between winter and summer.
I weighed up the options and the benefits and have decided im gonna go with a LS1 or similar looking for one with less than 100k on it preferrably out of a write off.
The conversion should be really simple, engine mounts, bellhousing and that should be it as far as fitting it in goes.
Obviously installing the computer and all but i will get a sparky to do it all, im excited to get it underway between winter and summer.
Get out there!!
Re: Getting rid of the 6.5 diseasel
You will see it is heaps more at the end.Wozza244 wrote:The conversion should be really simple, engine mounts, bellhousing and that should be it as far as fitting it in goes.
Obviously installing the computer and all but i will get a sparky to do it all, im excited to get it underway between winter and summer.
Oil sump, fuel system, modded brackets for alt/ac, 12" clutch, headers...
Have a look at the Marks4x4 website.
what about Duramax?
keeps it diesel and most of your existing conversion shoulod carry over?
motors are a bit exxy but if your are looking at 10k+ for LS1 may not be a bad option?
my 2c
keeps it diesel and most of your existing conversion shoulod carry over?
motors are a bit exxy but if your are looking at 10k+ for LS1 may not be a bad option?
my 2c
Keep it shiny side up!
Now doing general fab work and painting
trays, trailers, engine swaps on request, some tube work, silo section sliders, rust repairs, ute chops etc
Now doing general fab work and painting
trays, trailers, engine swaps on request, some tube work, silo section sliders, rust repairs, ute chops etc
You already weighed up the pros and cons of the diesel and decided it was worth the higher repair costs down the track, so imho keep it, fix it better than it ever was before, and don't blow the considerable extra cost for a new conversion.
Just my opinion. If you have spare money find some other use for it.
Just my opinion. If you have spare money find some other use for it.
This is not legal advice.
The 6.5 was never that good to start with. Having had lots to do with them, spend the money and fit something else - the Duramax would be tops, they are however quite expensive.chimpboy wrote:You already weighed up the pros and cons of the diesel and decided it was worth the higher repair costs down the track, so imho keep it, fix it better than it ever was before, and don't blow the considerable extra cost for a new conversion.
Just my opinion. If you have spare money find some other use for it.
[quote="Harb"]Well I'm guessing that they didn't think everyone would carry on like a big bunch of sooky girls over it like they have........[/quote]
Fair enough, it just sounds like the other options cost shitloads.sierrajim wrote:The 6.5 was never that good to start with. Having had lots to do with them, spend the money and fit something else - the Duramax would be tops, they are however quite expensive.chimpboy wrote:You already weighed up the pros and cons of the diesel and decided it was worth the higher repair costs down the track, so imho keep it, fix it better than it ever was before, and don't blow the considerable extra cost for a new conversion.
Just my opinion. If you have spare money find some other use for it.
This is not legal advice.
Banned
a new ls2 is not a lot more $blackmav wrote:This one just finished. 150k for $3600
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll ... K:MEWAX:IT
ADHD Racing would like to thank
Mrs Bru @ Sunshine Coast Developmental Physiotherapy - www.scdphysio.com.au , Ryano @ Fourbys www.generaltire.com.au Blitzkrieg Motorsport
Mrs Bru @ Sunshine Coast Developmental Physiotherapy - www.scdphysio.com.au , Ryano @ Fourbys www.generaltire.com.au Blitzkrieg Motorsport
Im not sure i can work out how it would cost 12,000?ludacris wrote:Expect around $12000 for full conversion. Not the cheapest motor to transplant.
Cris
The motor complete with loom, computer etc ready to drop in and run is gonna cost me around 3-4000 possibly less.
Some sparky work maybe up to 1000
Zorst 500
Engine mounts 100 worth of steel i will fab the brackets for the mounts
Bellhousing 500
Clutch 500
And that would be near finished id reckon??
Get out there!!
about 5k is cheapest I can find a ls2 for (they were 4500 about a year ago)bru21 wrote:a new ls2 is not a lot more $blackmav wrote:This one just finished. 150k for $3600
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll ... K:MEWAX:IT
then you need a drive belt kit, loom, computer, headers, auto (in my case)
ends up $8k+.
would love to be proven wrong though!~!!!
03 HDJ100R GXL / 94 FJ45-80
as has been said, expect costs of anywhere between 6k and 12k...
mine cost me 7k to do and i did all the work myself..
yer i coulda saved a few hundred on engine mounts... I could of built the loom myself ($700), but to get all the parts for the kit made it so much easier... i had my old motor out on a fri night and the ls running by the sunday arvo....
look up what the parts will cost on the marks website, u may not need to move the alt on a 60? so that will save a bit.
u will still need to get a truck sump and mod it, fuel pump and lines will be an issue..
don't scrimp on the cooling side.. the engine driven fan is ten times a thermo will ever be...
its an awesome converison.. but to get a decent job u may be lookin at some dollarz
mine cost me 7k to do and i did all the work myself..
yer i coulda saved a few hundred on engine mounts... I could of built the loom myself ($700), but to get all the parts for the kit made it so much easier... i had my old motor out on a fri night and the ls running by the sunday arvo....
look up what the parts will cost on the marks website, u may not need to move the alt on a 60? so that will save a bit.
u will still need to get a truck sump and mod it, fuel pump and lines will be an issue..
don't scrimp on the cooling side.. the engine driven fan is ten times a thermo will ever be...
its an awesome converison.. but to get a decent job u may be lookin at some dollarz
80 xtra cab
Supercharged LS1, Locked n shit
80 Wagon, TD Tourer, locked, Interco 35s, G turbo
Supercharged LS1, Locked n shit
80 Wagon, TD Tourer, locked, Interco 35s, G turbo
Not to far off I paid $2800 for a complete engine with everything on it 55,000km VY and has great compression. Depending on what gearbox you have tho you may want to upgrade it. The 80's H151 box is probably the strongest box and best suited to the LS1 as it has the 12inch clutch and all the others aren't as strong from what i've heard. Going the commo auto would be a pretty good option as they are pretty bloody tough and you can get them really cheap. Just get the conversion plate to put your transfer case to the back of it.Wozza244 wrote:Im not sure i can work out how it would cost 12,000?ludacris wrote:Expect around $12000 for full conversion. Not the cheapest motor to transplant.
Cris
The motor complete with loom, computer etc ready to drop in and run is gonna cost me around 3-4000 possibly less.
Some sparky work maybe up to 1000
Zorst 500
Engine mounts 100 worth of steel i will fab the brackets for the mounts
Bellhousing 500
Clutch 500
And that would be near finished id reckon??
More Suzuki parts going to the big Suzuki Heaven in the sky!
Hey,Wozza244 wrote:Im not sure i can work out how it would cost 12,000?ludacris wrote:Expect around $12000 for full conversion. Not the cheapest motor to transplant.
Cris
The motor complete with loom, computer etc ready to drop in and run is gonna cost me around 3-4000 possibly less.
Some sparky work maybe up to 1000
Zorst 500
Engine mounts 100 worth of steel i will fab the brackets for the mounts
Bellhousing 500
Clutch 500
And that would be near finished id reckon??
Its not as cheap as you are thinking.
I can do a universal harness for you $475, unlock ECU $150, DIY fit up from there.
Exhaust - requires custom extractors to fit $900 for marks headers, $300 for hi-flow cat converter, $500ish for system
Bellhousing - About $1400 for the marks adapters kit. I used a bellhousing from seatons engineering in perth, was $660. Not sure if that will work with the 60 series box.
Clutch - Mine was $1150 with billet flywheel, V10 dodge pressure plate and cruiser clutch plate.
thermo fans - $250. Use commodore or falcon fans, They cool the motor in a commodore so why bother going to the trouble of fitting an engine fan
Fuel system - $300, Hi pressure in tank pump and external pressure regulator
Pwr steer hose $150ish
Radiator hoses, random bits, oil, coolant, etc $300-$500
Just check all ya prices before you go ahead. As said can be done for around $7000 if its all DIY and not using alll marks parts.
Steve
KILLA KUSTOM KABLES
CUSTOM AUTO ELECTRICAL SPECIALISTS
0404811498
LS1 & DURAMAX ENGINE CONVERSIONS, DRIVE IN DRIVE OUT. PATROLS AND CRUISERS
LS1 STANDALONE HARNESS $475ex
CUSTOM AUTO ELECTRICAL SPECIALISTS
0404811498
LS1 & DURAMAX ENGINE CONVERSIONS, DRIVE IN DRIVE OUT. PATROLS AND CRUISERS
LS1 STANDALONE HARNESS $475ex
Shouldn't your bell housing already fit being a chev and all? And you can by adapter plates to mount early chev mounts to a gen3, so it should basically boolt straight in with what you have shouldn't it?Wozza244 wrote:Im not sure i can work out how it would cost 12,000?ludacris wrote:Expect around $12000 for full conversion. Not the cheapest motor to transplant.
Cris
The motor complete with loom, computer etc ready to drop in and run is gonna cost me around 3-4000 possibly less.
Some sparky work maybe up to 1000
Zorst 500
Engine mounts 100 worth of steel i will fab the brackets for the mounts
Bellhousing 500
Clutch 500
And that would be near finished id reckon??
When i pulled the 308 stroker out of my rangie and stuck that big heap of chev diesel carp in, it bolted straight in (except for engine mounts), then i used the same conversion (in a county) but with a gen 3 infront of it, all bolted in. (except engine mounts which were different as i moved the engine back).
Don't forget you'll need a truck sump
Damien
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the 304 is a good motor, even better with a stroker crank in it . MY 6.5 went about the same as my carby fed holden 336 stroker, but i never had faith in the chev, will never go down that route againWozza244 wrote:I had an idea that chev was the same and bellhousing would fit, a bloke at work has a motor its one of those 304 block ones out of a statesman VN he wants 1000 for the motor turbo 700 loom and computer it has 210k on it would it be a good deal?
Damien
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Spend some $$ on a quality rebuild (is there a stroker kit for the 304 ? )Wozza244 wrote:I had an idea that chev was the same and bellhousing would fit, a bloke at work has a motor its one of those 304 block ones out of a statesman VN he wants 1000 for the motor turbo 700 loom and computer it has 210k on it would it be a good deal?
Spend a few more on a rebuild for the 700 to make it live a long and happy life in a 4x4 .. and you will have 2 known good parts as opposed to a motor of unknown history.
The thing is i wouldnt want to run a 350 carby motor without gas, i dont want to run gas.Kitika wrote:I'm pretty sure a 350 chev would bolt straight in and be alot easy not requiring wiring or computer mods. Yours being a 60 you should be able to get engineered having easier emission adrs etc.
Be heaps, heaps cheaper too
This is why im thinking of opting for the injected motor.
The whole point is the chev diesel gets hot in summer and if i drag out the process of working out what to put in it im gonna find myself 10km from home on my way to work on a 35+ degree day with a hot motor that needs to sit and cool. NOT COOL!!!
I also dont want to f#$k around too much, it already has too much $$$ spent on engine mods i want the cheapest but not nastiest option, i have some good mechanical/welding/fabricating skills but do need a little guidance so thats a big +!!
And money aint so easy to come by these days
But yeah a BIG thanks to the outers crew, so many minds thinking and making suggestions have made my job easier over the last cpl yrs here.
Get out there!!
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