how do i know if torsion bars are wound up?

[83-mud-lux]

mates got an ifs hilux with 30mm body lift and were trying to fit 33's on it and they just dont fit (rub on back of inner guard slightly) and we looked at winding up torsion bars but it looks pretty high as it is and the upper wishbone bumpstop is sitting on the wishbone,does that mean it is as high as it goes?is it not good for the car to be sitting on the top wishbone bumpstop?

cheers..smiley..

[dans-paj92]

if you wind up the torsion bars you have to chop the top bumpstops and then get a wheel alignment. Im guessing LN106 jobbie.
Put a 50mm bodylift in it and he will have no problems.

[Black Bull]

IF you look on the back end of the torsion bars, the adjuster thread usually has 30-50mm of thread left on it at standard hight.

However, winding it all the way up will drastically shorten the life of the torsion bars and will Put too much angle on the CV's

Generally if your going to actually use 4WD it's not recomended to go more than 50mm on the front. or you'll start destroying CV's
But with that 2 inch lift, 2" body lift and the right offset rims you can fit 35's

[Frankenyota]

Try a ball joint lift kit, and flatten the back of the inner front guards with a hammer.
Also with the drop diff kit it will give the driveshafts a better angle.
Worked on my 4runner with ifs front end with 33" muds.

http://toyotasurf.asn.au/techsite/customsuspension.htm

Matt

[83-mud-lux]

its a 02 hilux 3.0d (not sure of the model name).

its pretty high from when he bought it so i think they might be wound up,35's on a 2''body and 2'' sus?thats pushing it isnt it.if its sitting on the top wishbone bumpstops isnt it already wound up?is it wise to shave the bumpstops,do you shave them and then wind the torsion bars up till they touch again or shave them and leave them at the same height to get more flex

he's got some serious front end problems with his cv's,it twists the passenger side cv boot up as if the cv is popping out when the wheel is in the air and then spinning the cv and popping back in,it also makes some pretty wild knocking going on.i dont know much about ifs im a solid axle man.

thanks frankenyota i will definately be looking into ball joint lift kit,isnt that when you flip your ball joints and it lifts you car higher.

cheers..smiley..

[Frankenyota]

Have alook at the link you will see the spacer goes between the ball joint and arm.
Don't wind the bars up to the bump stop it will ride like a pig.
With the spacers and diff drop you don't need to wind the bars up as much, and keeps the cv's at a nice angle.

Matt

[RUFF]

Have you got the car jacked up while you are looking at the upper wishbone?

[83-mud-lux]

i honestly cant remember if we had the car jacked up at the time. haha thats one of the stupidest things i might have done.

i can see what you mean now by the spacer,can you buy them?
can you run the ball joint spacers without doing diff drop or do you have to do both?
he only wants to run 33's at this point of time but who knows later on.

cheers..smiley..

[Den]

Hey guys where can I buy these spacers?

[904Runa]

Hey guys where can I buy these spacers?

I think there's still a few on ebay.

can you run the ball joint spacers without doing diff drop or do you have to do both?

Yeah you can but your cvs wouldn't last long. The point of the spacers is to allow you to crank more lift in via the bars than the normal setup allows. This is done by the spacer increasing the gap between the upper suspension arm and the bumpstop.

The point of the diff drop is that the more height you crank in, the greater the angle that the cvs will run, as the diff will be lifted up with the bar crank but the wheels will stay at the same level, so the diff end of the cv ends up being a fair bit higher than the wheel hub end. Dropping the diff reduces the height difference and means that the cvs operate at a flatter angle which means less chance of breaking.

The 4" skyjacker and snake racing IFS kits are a similar idea but these kits use longer steering spindles (that the upper and lower arms bolt to via the ball joints) to achieve the increased height and also include replacement front crossmembers that are spaced down lower than the factory ones. As the front of the diff bolts to the front crossmember, the new lower member achieves the same result of flatter cv angles.