FJ40 Cancer Removal Tip

[the_smoo]

I have got a lot of tech tips from this board, so i thought i would post my solution to that common rust problem found on 40's.

The rear section is a notorious rust collection point. Im sure there might be better ways to remove this, but here is mine which was cheap and does not look too bad.

[the_smoo]

Get your angle grinder with cutting disc and cut up and around the rust. The rust is usually only around the area shown, so hopefully you only need remove the section shown below.

Do that to both sides as well as the thin sheet that goes over the top of the steel bar underneath.

The steel member underneath was corroded to the shiesen hausen so that had to go too.. may as well piss every thing off while you are under there.

[the_smoo]

Cutting out the member is a bit time consuming. The bolts were rusted in and just had to be cut out. The guy who owned this before me also bolted the gas tank through the rear floor which caused it to crack and split, so i cut the rear floor out also.

[the_smoo]

With all the cancer out, it was a good opportunity to clean out thirty years of accumulating crap in there, and give exposed metal a touch of killrust.

The local sheetmetal place cut up some square steel tube and a new rear 3mm checkerplate tray for under a hundred bucks.

[the_smoo]

Drill holes in the steele tubing corresponding to the old bolt holes and intsall using new bolts. I simply used sealant around the rear sheeting and pop riveted it in. Note that if you cut out your rear tray, cut in about an inch from the edge to leave a lip to rivet too. You also utilise the bolt holes and bolts that were in the original tray...

[the_smoo]

I also got some offcuts of propellor plate from the sheetmetal place. These were about 30 bucks. I kept the cut out rusted panel bits and crudely made a template for the aluminium proplellor plate. I then cut them out, filed all the edges smooth and pop riveted them to the existing panel.

Simply bend the aluminium as you go, as the pop rivets hold it in place.

This wont give you a showroom job, however it is more than adequate. I managed to replace the whole rear for about 130 bucks and the only tools used were a grinder, hacksaw, screwdriver and rivet gun....

No more rust........

[bj42turbo]

What 's going on mate your truck keeps changing colour, good work though it good fun isn't it ...........Dazz

[the_smoo]

its a cracker of a good time. friday nights roll around, and a chance for a few hours and a few tinnies in the garage....

the way its going but, by the time shes finished, i will probably want a new color....