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more prone to break cv with lock rite or air locker?
more prone to break cv with lock rite or air locker?
What do u guys think is it easier to break cv's with an auto locker seeing as there always locked or with an air locker u only use it when needed? also can the lock rites handle high hp?
Re: more prone to break cv with lock rite or air locker?
ARB air lockers are tried and tested. Air locker should only be locked in before you punch the horse power which is better than a lockrite which could lock in when ever it wants to. If your name is saying you own a GU I do not think you will have many if any problems with the front cv,s.
What sort of driving are you doing and what sort of power are we taling about.
Cris
What sort of driving are you doing and what sort of power are we taling about.
Cris
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Re: more prone to break cv with lock rite or air locker?
Just ur average landcruiser park type wheeling and looking for around 400 rwhp. I know air lockers are tried and tested I just can't justify the price of airlockers when I really doubt ill use them all that often, I'm just wondering if I'm gonna be breaking lockrites or anything else.ludacris wrote:ARB air lockers are tried and tested. Air locker should only be locked in before you punch the horse power which is better than a lockrite which could lock in when ever it wants to. If your name is saying you own a GU I do not think you will have many if any problems with the front cv,s.
What sort of driving are you doing and what sort of power are we taling about.
Cris
Re: more prone to break cv with lock rite or air locker?
I am not the best or the boldest or most experienced mechanic, but if you want 400 rwhp, then it is best not to cheap out on parts.
Re: more prone to break cv with lock rite or air locker?
Not quite correct there. Auto lockers are locked in for the majority of the time, and then unlock when the conditions arise (cornering etc.) - so the chances of one accidently "locking in" as such are really not an issue.ludacris wrote:ARB air lockers are tried and tested. Air locker should only be locked in before you punch the horse power which is better than a lockrite which could lock in when ever it wants to.
To answer the OP's question, at the end of the day if you drive like a goose, expect to break CV's. I've seen people break CV's in locked/unlocked, 50HP/500HP, 28"/37" tyres. It all comes down to driver ability and driving to the conditions.
I don't think the issue here is "which one will break more cv's?".
Last edited by coxy321 on Mon Jun 28, 2010 7:35 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: more prone to break cv with lock rite or air locker?
you are more prone with lockrites to break cvs so i would fit an air locker so you dont put as much strain on other components and also so you dont have to use too much right foot and wreck tracks for others by ripping them up and boreing holes
Re: more prone to break cv with lock rite or air locker?
In my old 45 series (I know, different vehicle) I broke all my CVs (probably about 5 or so) with an open centre. After I pulled the Detroit out of the back and put it in the front and put a welded one in the rear. I never needed to go as quick through or over something to get there from then on. For such a harsh locker in the rear, it was like it wasn't there when swapped to the front. You could seriously drive in circles in 4wd with no clanging or banging that occurred when it was in the rear. That ute was mega modded but it didn't have 400HP. So if you can afford Air Lockers, get them.
Don't take life too seriously...it isn't permanent.
Re: more prone to break cv with lock rite or air locker?
I was under the impression that NO lockers was the most likely to break something because one wheel in the air gets all the power, and spins like buggery, then when it makes contact with the ground again, it stops in an instant, and breaks things.
Would think either locker would be better than none.
Would think either locker would be better than none.
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Re: more prone to break cv with lock rite or air locker?
you won't break a lokka and if you do, they have a 3 year warranty.
CV's on the other hand are broken mostly due to driver error. If you're picking up wheels at a million RPM, sh#t will break when it all stops suddenly.
With a locker of either type, you're less likely to be trying to use momentum and rpm to get through an obstacle, plus to really spin tyres, they have to both come off the ground.
End of the day, drive smart, you won't break anything, drive over-enthusiastically and spend money repairing your truck.
One thing I'd suggest from experience is auto hubs and lokkas don't always mix, it was more likely to have been the fact that he drove in 4lo on bitumen that did it but same day we fitted a lokka, his auto hubs smashed. Take from that what you will.
Any locker is better than no locker and at around a third of the price of an air locker, the lokkas are a pretty attractive option.
CV's on the other hand are broken mostly due to driver error. If you're picking up wheels at a million RPM, sh#t will break when it all stops suddenly.
With a locker of either type, you're less likely to be trying to use momentum and rpm to get through an obstacle, plus to really spin tyres, they have to both come off the ground.
End of the day, drive smart, you won't break anything, drive over-enthusiastically and spend money repairing your truck.
One thing I'd suggest from experience is auto hubs and lokkas don't always mix, it was more likely to have been the fact that he drove in 4lo on bitumen that did it but same day we fitted a lokka, his auto hubs smashed. Take from that what you will.
Any locker is better than no locker and at around a third of the price of an air locker, the lokkas are a pretty attractive option.
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[url]beautute.com.au[/url]
lockers, tyres, tube bar work, ute chops
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