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Terrano II 2.7tdi Bible

Tech Talk for Nissan owners.

Moderators: toaddog, V8Patrol

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Posts: 4
Joined: Sun Jul 18, 2010 3:42 pm

Terrano II 2.7tdi Bible

Post by terra27 »

Info for Nissan Terrano II 2.7TDi Aust delivery 1997-99 only.
Please use thread for adding info only & keep it clear of non-related chit-chat.


This is a compilation of part numbers, non-Nissan parts suppliers, vehicle specs & basic info about simple maintenance.
It is not exhaustive, you are wise to treat it as a general guide & check the info before committing to it.
Where possible remove part and check before buying. There are a lot of parts available for the Terrano II, if you do your homework.
I hope it is of assistance. No responsibility is taken etc.



Free Factory Manual:
Can (could) be found here (download all sections)...
"http://bebrs.pie-dabas.net/Webs/Terrano/R20/"





Diesel Engine 2.7TDi

General and Misc Engine Info
Some engine components same as Pathy/Navara/Terrano I WD21 2.7TD - but most aren't.
Bottom end parts similar (pistons may be different - check ACL part#). Cylinder head may be different due to injector threads etc.
(The 'i' in the TDi engine code results in many differences).
Searching for parts may find compatible info & components from UK (Right Hand drive).
Some '97 models had Hitachi engine controls (& throttle valve on intercooler), whilst later models used Bosch.

Crank case vent and EGR valve: (Disclaimer - perform these mods at own risk)
These parts conspire to fill your engine with soot and will reduce performance or can even kill the turbo etc.
For crank case vent either fit a secondary air/oil separator (also clean out standard unit & hoses while you are at it). OR make an oil catch can, vent separator into catch can and blank off hole in turbo inlet duct (not legal).
For EGR valve make blanking gasket out of steel sheet etc. Mod is not legal, but can make your engine run better and longer.


Bottom end:
Full rebuild kit, gasket kits, pistons, rings, valve regrind kits available from ACL (also via Repco).

Head Gasket:
ACL do 3 thicknesses. 1.05mm (#AA5190), 1.15mm (#AA5200 ), 1.25mm (#AA5210).

Valve clearance:
Must be hot when set: 0.25 mm for exhaust/Intake.

Engine mount:
Genuine left = $130. Mackay Rubber also do them (#A5085 & A5092) probably cheaper.

Airconditioner Condenser:
Hella part # 8FC 351 301-011.


Engine lubrication
Engine Filter:
Ryco Z503 (very slightly smaller & fits best), also Repco ROF64 & Valvoline units.

Engine oil:
Need approx 7.5L of suitable Turbo Diesel 4WD oil. Access filter through wheel arch.

For mess free filter change:
Drain oil. Replace sump plug. Turn engine over for 2 secs. Redrain sump. Access filter through wheelarch - pull back rubber strip. Place plastic bags under/around existing filter. Punch & carefully remove filter - oil will flow into bags as you unscrew filter. Replace sump plug. Carefully fit new filter 3/4 full of oil. Check sump plug and re-fill with 7.5L of oil and replace caps. Check oil level before running engine. Run engine, stop, let sit for a while and recheck oil level, top up if required.

Oil Pressure:
Idle Speed: more than 78 kpa. At 3000 rpm: 294 - 392 kpa.


Fuel system
Fuel Filter:
Ryco Z332 or Repco RDF4. Change regularly ~10K km. Check for water @ ~ 5K km.
Secondary CAV filter kit can be fitted.
(Drain filter into container, punch & remove, remove fittings w/- pliers, grease threads, prime. Ensure no leaks!)

Injectors:
Remove & have serviced to save $$$. Nozzles @ ~$60 ea + shim labour.
Non genuine no.1 injector ~$250, it's a special unit with sensor so look after it. Can buy direct from Bosch etc.

Diesel pump:
"Zexel COVEC - Fitted to Nissan TD27Ti, QD32Ti & Isuzu 4JG2" (Check this).
Pump has cutoff solenoid that may stick (test for approx 11-12V, and/or remove & free it up as required).
Mesh screen in pump can clog (remove and clean, check for other debris. Ensure cleanliness when doing this).
Internal springs may collapse & give rough running (need to replace).
Electronic controller may fail & give rough running/idle (replace at approx $320).
Complete pump rebuild is expensive so check the above faults first. Change fuel filter regularly!!

Idle Speed:
With A/c on 850 rpm +/- 50. Without A/c on 700 +/- 50.


Engine Air Inlet
Snorkel:
Use Airtec, Safari etc model for a '98+ Courier it fits well, w/- airbox mods.
Also kit from "Airflow" now available.

Airfilter:
Wesfil WA1041 (Brookvale, NSW) ~$30.
Nissan # 16546-7F000. Do not use OILED unifilter etc they contaminate air sensor and reduce performance.
Gently Vac out filter box & air sensor mesh whilst changing filter. Ensure no air leaks.

Air Sensor:
If Bosch, buy from Bosch save $$$.
Hitachi unit #AFH7014 (Nissan #226802J200) available aftermarket. Hitachi unit also on Pathfinder R50 V6 VG33E & Infiniti etc. Equiv to Hella #8ET009142401.
Remove & GENTLY clean sensor with contact cleaner spray, allow to dry, carefully replace, ensure sealed.

Turbo:
TB25. Nissan #14411-7F400. (Garret # 452162-0001. Service kit # 709143-0001. Gasket # 215110).


Engine Cooling System
Waterpump:
PBR, Protex & Repco etc @ 1/2 Nissan price. Same as D21 2.7TD (143mm hole spaces).
Drain water at bottom hose or rad drain tap. Remove rad, belts and old pump. Fit new pump, refit belts, rad & fill. Easy job.

Fanbelts:
Alternator & Powersteer = 13A1150. A/c = 13A925. (13A = belt shape. 925 & 1150 = belt length).
Fan Belt deflection: Alt = 11-13 mm. Air Cond = 6-7.5 mm. P Steer = 8-9.5 mm. (All defl' with 98N force).

Radiator:
Larger capacity radiator available from PWR. "www.pwr.com.au" for ~$900.
Cooling System: 10L including reservoir. Ethyl Glycol antifreeze.
Radiator Cap Relief Pressure: 78 - 98 kpa

Thermostat:
Start to open @ 82 deg C. Fully Open @ 95 deg C (Note: Aust & import cars may be different).
Many Terrano II's run hot (mine doesn't). Check cooling system & check viscous fan clutch.


Engine Electrical
Glow Plugs:
Torque to 20Nm Max when replacing! Nissan #11065-63G00. Good alternates: Champion #CH162. NGK #Y-707RS. Denso #DG120.
Glow plugs can burn out - engine won't start. Check for 12V supply to glow plugs, then remove intercooler and buzzbar, check 0.5 Ohm at each plug.
Easy job to replace, but ensure no debris falls into engine through glowplug holes or intercooler ducting. Cleanliness required.

Alternator:
Bosch BX310051 (type KC-14V 70A). Also Hitachi unit. Get through auto electrician and save. Often rebuildable and repairable.

Starter motor:
Nissan #23300-10T02. Hitachi #S13-107A (2.5kW, 12V 9T CW). Non genuine ~$500 (genuine ~$1100). Can also be rebuilt @ ~$250. Same as TD27 etc.

Dual Battery:
Piranha do a battery tray (sits behind left headlight). Part # BTNTD. Or make your own.


Clutch, Gearbox, Transfer case, Propshafts


Clutch:
PBR did a kit, probably others do too. There are 2 throw out bearing sizes, quote VIN#, 2.7TDi engine designation, etc for correct size.

Clutch Master Cylinder:
Nissan #306107F000. Girling #1202804. 15.9mm bore. Check # with Girling.

Clutch Slave Cylinder:
Nissan #3062041L00. Girling #1104253. Also 300ZX. 19mm bore. Check # w/-Girling.
Bleed clutch at fitting near right rear wheel.

Gearbox:
FS5R30A. 5.1L of API-GL4 oil. (3.58/2.077/1.36/1.0/0.811:1 ratios). Similar/same as some Patrols, V6 Navara, 300ZX?

Transfer case:
TX10A. 2.3L API GL4 or Dexron. (1:2.02 low ratio). Similar/same as Patrol.
(Marks Adaptors have 2 lower ratios available & Calmini make lower 3.9:1 ratio gears. Check shaft splines etc for correct fit).

Propshafts:
Front = OF71H. Rear = 2S80B. Grease all universal joints regularly.

Tailshaft Uni:
Bearing caps 27mm across, 82mm from cap top-to-top. Cross ends are 16.5mm. Try Autopro for the uni's.
Last edited by terra27 on Mon Jul 19, 2010 11:02 am, edited 7 times in total.
Posts: 4
Joined: Sun Jul 18, 2010 3:42 pm

Re: Terrano II 2.7TDi "Bible" (info/part numbers etc)

Post by terra27 »

Differentials
Rear Diff:
HB233B (4.375:1 ratio). Uses 2.8L of API GL5, SAE80-90 LSD oil.
Same as some Patrols & WD21 Pathy. 1.26" diameter, 31 spline axles.
Can buy Locking diff centres from: ARB, TruTrac (Detroit), Lockright, Lokka.
Can also increase pretension on standard LSD with extra clutches etc.

Front Diff:
R180 (4.375:1 ratio). Uses 1.3L of API GL5 oil.
Can now buy a locking centre from Lokka.
LSD's available from Calmini, & can be found in certain Nissan 240/260/280Z cars, but check ring gear bolts.


Front Driveshafts, Cv's and Locking Hubs
Front Driveshafts:
5 bolt inner flange, 28 spline outer shaft, Repco, and many CV or drive shaft suppliers etc (same as SOME Pathy WD21 manual '92-'95).

Front CV boots:
Outers available from AutoPro. But inners have 3 scallops on housing - check before buying!

Locking hubs:
AVM sell manual hubs @ ~$200. Most D21 & WD21 hubs should fit, but check 28 splines etc.
The standard auto hubs can get 'sticky' and may need disassembly, cleaning and relube. See factory manual.


Wheel Bearings
Rear Wheel Bearing:
Grimace# 713 6138 50. Same # for D22 Nav (that's D22 not D21). Also "www.bsc.com.au" do front & rear wheel bearing kits.

Front wheel Bearing kit:
SKF @ $65/side w/- seal. Also CBC, ABC & BSC. Same as Pathy WD21/ D21.


Brakes
Brake Master Cylinder:
Nissan #460107F025 $$$. Girling #4008348. TRW may be able to supply also.
Girling UK do discs, pads, shoes, master cylinders, wheel cylinders, & brake boosters. TRW might supply also.
Rear brakes need drum removal to be adjusted (you get good at it). Handbrake requires adjustment and cables can sometime stick. Free them up and lube cables.

Rear Brake Shoes:
"www.atap.com.au" do shoes, Part# N3031. Or re-shoe @ BertBros, NSW ~$60. Check drum diam.

Rear Brake Wheel Cylinders:
"www.atap.com.au" Australian Truck & Auto Parts. Part # 210C0408. Bore = 25.4mm. OEM # 44100-7F001. Girling #5008287. Possible TRW part also.

Front Brake pads:
Pathfinder WD21 & D21 pads.

Front Brake Discs:
Disc Brakes Australia do discs. Diam 277mm. (min thick 24mm).


NOTE: Suspension, Steering components are mostly the same as certain Pathfinder WD21 models with some important exceptions.

Steering
Power Steering:
Requires 1.0L of Dexron or power steering fluid.

Steering box:
ZF 28 spline unit. NOT the same as a Pathy WD21/D21, 28 or 44 spline box! ZF has different mounting holes & physical size to the Japanese unit.
You can tighten the steering box if it becomes sloppy. Access the tension screw under the battery. Only tighten a 1/4 turn, be sure to re-tighten locknut without moving the adjuster. A seal kit is available, search the www or head to a bearing supplier with the code on the seal.

Draglink:
Same as some Pathy WD21 / D21. Part# TR4680, but check ALL pin tapers when buying. This part can be a tyre wear and bad handling culprit.

Tie rod ends:
TRW part # = Inner TTE4752. Outer TTE751. Same as some Pathy WHYD21 '92-'95.

Idler arm:
VERY similar to Pathy WD21. Line up with OEM idler. Match & file holes to suit. This part is also a tyre wear and vague handling culprit.
Replacement idler arm bushes can be bought from superpro etc, but often don't fit tight and allow a sloppy idler. Perhaps replace with genuine bushes. Or have someone machine up some bronze bushes. Can drill idler for grease nipple if not already fitted.
Idler and draglink are usually responsible for poor handling and tyre wear.

Ball Joints:
TRW part # = Upper TBJ205. Lower TNJ2029 & TBJ815. Same as some Pathy WHYD21 '92-'95.


Suspension
Suspension Bushes:
All same as Pathy WD21. (Pedders, Superpro, Nolathane, Whiteline etc). But check if possible as some brands don't fit perfectly. Front upper & lower control arm bushes wear, effecting alignment and handling. Swaybar mounts on lower control arm usually wear & can squeak.

Shock absorbers:
Front Shocks - same as Pathy WD21. Bilstein, Koni, OME, Rancho, Toughdog etc etc.
Front lower shock bushes can deteriorate and squeak. Ensure new 'large' shock diameter will fit inside upper control arm.

Rear Shocks - available from Bilstein, Koni, OME, Rancho, Toughdog etc. Some use same # as Pathy WD21 some (such as Old Man Emu) use Triton MK, & MH/MJ V6 number.
Check extended length if running raised springs or wanting more articuation (downward travel).
You want longest possible, (without much increase to compressed length) as shock extended length usually limits amount of down-travel on rear of Terrano's.

Front Torsion Bars:
H'duty from Sway-Away & others. Ensure they suit weight of diesel engine.
Standard units sag and can be wound-up, a bit. Don't wind up too much beyond standard as handling is effected.

Rear springs:
Aftermarket springs and rubber airbags available from usual suppliers.


Body
Bullbar:
ECB (airbag approved) & Formula Offroad (suits winch, not airbag approved - not sure it matters).

Headlight Protectors:
Worth having. Nissan OEM $$$. EGR group in UK sells them. Probably others do too.

Headlights:
Hard to find original spares and very $$$.
Use Long nose pliers to remove the alloy cone in front of globe (inside light fitting). This improves light output from being so patchy and dull.
Hella make non-original replacements, they replace whole light fitting. 1ED 964 210-211. & 221.

Bonnet Protector:
Available from Nissan, and possibly others.

Window covers:
(shade cloth for rear door windows) 'Shevron' brand. Weather shield and rear window rain covers are available, don't know where but i've seen them fitted.
Last edited by terra27 on Mon Jul 19, 2010 11:15 am, edited 6 times in total.
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