Diesel Oil - Your Pick?

[buff man]

rimula x 15w-40

[toaddog]

Moved to general tech due to the wide appeal this particular topic should have to all diesel owners.

[ludacris]

I am using conoco at the moment. Came highly recommended. Also use sakura oil filters which is the biggest manafacturer of original equipment oil filters from japan.

Cris

[ajsr]

Im using nulon heavy duty diesel oil in all my work vehicles at the moment and it seems to be a good all rounder.
these include-
colorado td 09 newish
2.8 hilux na 95 420,000km
td courier 05 150,000km
canter 89 380,000
dyna 83 2h high 300 km
and 8 rough terrain cherry pickers all around 10-15,000hrs
where possible I use donadson or fleetguard filter if not ryco
they all seem happy on it and run well all get 7500 km changes
the thing I like about nulon is that it is aust owned and made
http://www.nulon.com.au/products/15W-40 ... ngine_Oil/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[JTH]

Used to run Nulon in my Rodeo, switched to Castrol RX super. Running
rx in the Cruiser now as are four other mates with 1HZ Cruiser and couldn't be happier.

[mickyd555]

I recently changed to Conoco Power D for my TD42, mainly cause my missus works for an distributor but they also distribute mobil oils and this was recomended by there oil guru. He claimed it "should" clean the engine and allow slightly better HP (but would need to be dyno'd and wouldnt be noticable otherwise). I would love to have a before and after readout but he wouldnt spring the dollars and im a tigh arse!!!

I have no results so i cant really claim either way but it comes in a perfect 10L bottle and is the right price at the moment

[Clanky]

I have one major word of caution with regards to oils, Find one oil and stick with it. Changing brands of oils will kill an engine faster than just using a cheap one espically if the detergent and additive levels change considerably.

My old man told me to find one oil and stick with it, I always followed his advice, but wondered a bit. Now I have the proof. I lent my mate my BJ40 and I have always used Shell Helix Diesel Oil. He had it for a 18 months and I had given him the oil for oil changes but ran out 3 months before he return it. But in some high quality Mobil Oil (because he had a mobil card and thought he was doing the right thing). Within a few thousand kms head gasket leaked, put pressure into radiator and cooked the motor. Result new head (large cracks between the valves) and probably needs new injectors and a tune up.

I have now moved over to Shell Rimula X Diesel oil as it is better but started out by topping up the old oil with Rimulax, then a 50/50 mix before now running straight Rimula X, and have not had any problems.

I have also used Toyota Motor Oil in past cars with no issues. Just change oil and filters every 10,00 kms and if Turbo change oil every five.

Mind you our 2003 Disco has a 20,000 kms service interval and I still get it done every 10,000 if we use it off road a fair bit (if hard top work, I leave it to 20,000....

The old Hilux 2.8 is a 5000kms service interval for normal use. I dont agree with the one type of oil over the life of an engine, moreso that you dont mix brands with what you have in it at the time.

Not sure how engine oil caused a leaky head gasket or valves cracking between them or injectors need replacing. More like its suffered from being flogged or has just worn out

[chunks]

Fuchs Ultralube 15w-40 and Donaldson filters every 5000km in my TD42. We use it as a multifleet oil at work so it goes in plenty of diesel and petrol cars where 15w-40 mineral oil is specified.

[oldmate]

Not sure how engine oil caused a leaky head gasket or valves cracking between them or injectors need replacing. More like its suffered from being flogged or has just worn out

It wouldn't. Bad oil would have seen a bottom end failure before overheating. It would have been a cooling system failure.

Currently I'm using gulf western oils. CF and SG for diesel and petrol.

I've never believed the marketing crap. Different brands have to compete in the home mechanic market brought on by the big chains like super cheap. Because dollars are less important to the private consumer, it's easier to sell over priced/hyped stuff if they think they are getting something better.

When it comes to business, it isn't the brand, it's who can provide the cheapest price.

Only exceptions would be the likes of cat and toyota who use their own brand named oils.

[Clanky]

Not sure how engine oil caused a leaky head gasket or valves cracking between them or injectors need replacing. More like its suffered from being flogged or has just worn out

It wouldn't. Bad oil would have seen a bottom end failure before overheating. It would have been a cooling system failure.

Currently I'm using gulf western oils. CF and SG for diesel and petrol.

I've never believed the marketing crap. Different brands have to compete in the home mechanic market brought on by the big chains like super cheap. Because dollars are less important to the private consumer, it's easier to sell over priced/hyped stuff if they think they are getting something better.

When it comes to business, it isn't the brand, it's who can provide the cheapest price.

Only exceptions would be the likes of cat and toyota who use their own brand named oils.

Well said. Ultimately if you want to know what the oil is doing, put an oil temp and oil pressure gauge in to monitor how its performing. The oil is just not a brand it has to do with its category - IE A winter grade oil might be great in the snow but is not necessarily that great in 50degC climbing over sandunes.
Oil sampling analysis will also tell you the oil condition if you have any doubts.

[mike_nofx]

penrite HPR 15-40 here every 5000. when i was in vic in winter my car would NEVER move until it was up to operating temp. even then i took it easy for a while because it's worth noting your oil warms up slower than your water.

am i the only one that cringes when people start their cars or anything and just drive?

I havent researched the topic, but i think any more than 10 seconds idling at start up is a waste of time, and prob even worse.

If you just start driving (slowly, obviously not revving or loading the crap out of it), the engine will warm up in a few minutes. It takes much longer for the engine to warm up when just sitting there, like 15 minutes plus. Wont this cause the bores to glaze?

In cold weather I give mine about 10 seconds warm up, any less and it stalls (4.2 carbi) and just slowly drive down my street at just above idle for the 400 or so meters till the main road. I take it easy until its up to operating temp, then drive how i want.

[ludacris]

Not sure how engine oil caused a leaky head gasket or valves cracking between them or injectors need replacing. More like its suffered from being flogged or has just worn out

It wouldn't. Bad oil would have seen a bottom end failure before overheating. It would have been a cooling system failure.

Currently I'm using gulf western oils. CF and SG for diesel and petrol.

I've never believed the marketing crap. Different brands have to compete in the home mechanic market brought on by the big chains like super cheap. Because dollars are less important to the private consumer, it's easier to sell over priced/hyped stuff if they think they are getting something better.

When it comes to business, it isn't the brand, it's who can provide the cheapest price.

Only exceptions would be the likes of cat and toyota who use their own brand named oils.

Is GULF WESTERN OIL recycled oil?

Cris

[chris_stoffa]

Nope, Not according to their website

http://www.gulfwestern.com.au/GW%20Quality.html

Any product sold to you by GULF WESTERN OIL comes with our seal of quality guarantee. This guarantee assures you, our customer that:
• All our base oil originates from virgin, solvent refined hydro treated or hydro cracked feedstock
• All our products are manufactured under an ISO 9001 quality endorsed management system
• Coolants are manufactured meeting ISO 9001 and TS 16949 ensuring they are approved for use in Australian mining operations
• Gulf Western is 100% Australian owned and operated and all our lubricants are formulated, blended and packaged in Australia
• All our lubricants are blended with API approved additive packages
• All our products are guaranteed to meet specifications
• We carry $10,000,000 product and public liability insurance


Cheers

[Sammyboy]

I have always used Penrite oils. Years and years ago, my old diesel Pajero was chewing through a bit of oil and my mechanic told me to get something thicker and recommended Penrite. For my 1990 2.5 TDI Pajero, I use Penrite HPR Diesel 15 (15-50). In my 1985 Holden Drover 1.3, I use Penrite HPR 10 (10-50). In 2006, my old Paj drove up to Queensland, towing a 400kg dog trailer, with dogs and a couple of hundred kilos of luggage in it, the temp seemed ok whenever I had the trailer detatched, but driving with the trailer on, my temperature was hovering between 80% and 95%. I didn't chew through any of my Penrite Diesel 15 oil, and even recorded fuel consumption of 9.9 L/100km! The temperature was around 40 degrees outside, so I guess it demonstrated just how much this oil can protect my old diesel engine. When I restore my 351 Cleveland powered Ford XC ute, I will be also using Penrite oils (don't know which one yet).

Another oil that I have been curious to try would be Redline oils. Has anybody used this oil, or heard any good or bad comments about it?

[404HZS]

Another oil that I have been curious to try would be Redline oils. Has anybody used this oil, or heard any good or bad comments about it?

Used red-line gearbox oil in a mates 300ZX.
We used it for less than 500kms before changing it out for castrol instead. In 500kms the gearbox began to clash and gear shifts were sticky and hard to engage at the best of times.
When we drained the oil it looked like blue custard. Its was super thick and really really sticky. Red-line didn't want to know about it.
Never had a problem since switching to castrol.

[dudley]

I use RX super as recommended by my mate who is a mechanic and has had toyo diesels all his life.
2.8 diesel Hilux, 250,000km
Oil consumption is reduced.
I change the oil and filter every 5,000km using ryco filters.

As for letting it warm up, I give it about 1-2mins at a fast idle (1200ish rpm) before heading off.

[Mrowka]

penrite HPR 15-40 here every 5000. when i was in vic in winter my car would NEVER move until it was up to operating temp. even then i took it easy for a while because it's worth noting your oil warms up slower than your water.

am i the only one that cringes when people start their cars or anything and just drive?

I do this also. So do lots of other people where I live. The parking lots are full of people idling their cars, waiting for them to warm up.

[chunks]

Extended idling isn't particularly good for an engine. And regardless, your gear oils are still going to be stone cold when you move off. I let my car idle for a minute or so while I open the gates in my driveway etc, then just drive it very gently until it reachs operating temperature.

[pongo]

Fresh 2H
Castrol RX Super, ryco filter, 5000km.

Does anybody have any comments RE: the RX super? The only reason i use it is because the old man has used it for years in his cruiser/tractors etc.

one of the many stories of running rx super involved a rebuild of a 350 cummins that done 1.3 million km's
Tried to have it rebuilt while he was on holidays as a maintenance issue but once stripped down had to argue he wanted it all rebuilt as everything was still well within specs.

Seems to be a very high detergent oil. i wouldnt be using it if thought the motor was well worn.
My lawn mower seems to like it too.

Cheapest place i found so far is the vovlo earthmoving dealership at narellan.