5" lift on a 100 series cruiser IFS

[jimmy08]

I've searched high and low for a 5" lift kit for my 04' 100 series land cruiser independent front suspension does it exist or is there any bolt on solutions?

[VooDoo]

2" max on the IFS. Any more and you destroy CV's

[parr]

2" max on the IFS. Any more and you destroy CV's

unless you can find someone that makes a diff drop kit for the 100 there are a few on the market for hiluxes but I don't no of any for th 100, someone on here should no. I'v seen people go to 3" but that is alot is strain on the cv's, particularly if you are thinking of locking the front.

[BUSTED100]

2" max on the IFS. Any more and you destroy CV's

unless you can find someone that makes a diff drop kit for the 100 there are a few on the market for hiluxes but I don't no of any for th 100, someone on here should no. I'v seen people go to 3" but that is alot is strain on the cv's, particularly if you are thinking of locking the front.

Auto Craft do the diff drop kits for the 100 and other I guess other 4x4 stores could get them in for you or try Sleeoffroad in the US. This way you could run 35's to gain the clearance back under the diff but still improve your approach angle
Email: Darren@auto-craft.com.au

[VooDoo]

There are a few diff drop kits but you still cant go over 3" as you need the down travel

This is from Daz @ Autocraft

OK, there are many aspects to setting up the IFS 100, so smoke em if youve got em,

the 100 is a funny animal in the front, and there are afew parameters you cant overstep when setting one up, without causing other issues. We do afew a week, and it is the most common vehicle for us to work on currently or fit equipment to, in the workshop.

The average 100 we fit out for touring the country, normally goes somewhere between 3.6 and 4.2 tonne fully loaded for car only campers, for doing bigger trips like the Madigan line, or the Canning, or the Cape, and many we do for towing big vans are somewhere between 7 and 8 tonne fully loaded on the road [I dont endorse it, but we weigh many, when setting up, as down weight on tow ball, total car weight etc, are all important when setting a vehicle up]

With the Bilstein Platinum kit we use on the 100, our rear shocks are as long as they can be and still keep the coil captive, and the fronts are longer to allow the diff drop to be worth while, whilst maintaining a minimum amount of droop in the front.

The 100 has to have at least 70mm of droop from ride height to protect the shocks and stop then topping out all the time, and this is the limiting factor for lifting one normally, to maintain that.

The second factor is lift in the front, when to high, when accelerating, like off from the lights, when the front end then toe pulls as you accelerate and lifts in the front, and tries to drive over the front wheels as they scrub on the road, making it lift more, and on it goes. The more gear on or in the back, the worse it can be.

With 16"rims [add 12mm for 17"rims or 25mm for 18"rims] from the very bottom edge of the rim where it meets the tyre, up through the centre of the wheel to the fender edge the 100 is 720mm at the front and 775mm rear. In the front with longer shocks like the bilsteins you can go to 775mm if diff drop fitted, in the front, before the lift tyre scrub issue surfaces, and we normally end up between 810-830mm in the rear [depending on load, accessories, and coils chosen] the factory rear coils will drop 20mm + for every 100kg you add to the rear, and our HD coils drop less than 10mm for every 100kg added.

When we use the Fox Shox which are slightly longer again, we go to 790mm front and with our slinky coils in the rear it goes 830-850mm on 16"rims.

The highest you can go without causing issues in the front without a diff drop is 750mm.

We have had trucks in here that have been set up elsewhere, running more than that, that are doing cv boots every 20,000km or less, that have required the issue fixed.

The cv boots cannot rub on itself in the straight ahead position, at ride height.

It should also be noted that adjusting torsion bars is like adding a coil packer, it will change the ride height, but it wont change the spring rate. Standard torsion bars are too soft for a loaded vehicle, and you can add heavier torsion bars to a standard vehicle, and it will improve the ride quality.

When adjusting the T bars, on a TD 5 turns of the adjuster will raise or lower the vehicles front 20mm, or part there of [2.5 turns = 10mm] and on a V8 4 turns is 20mm of adjustment, but in both cases, 10 turns wont be 40mm of adjustment. [it just isnt ]

Rockcrawler make an even stiffer torsion bar than most common ones, but we have seen 3 trucks with broken adjuster fingers on the back of the T bar mount, that have been running these heavier T bars. A very hard thin to try and weld, or fix, in the bush, or in the desert.

Now, the design of the front lower arm is such, that when it strikes the bump stop, it tries to let the wheel continue up, putting pressure on the join of the 2 halves of the arm, with the bump stop closer to the pivot point, than the wheel, that it can crack the weld, then tear along the path of least resistance, until it reaches the torsion bar mounting hole, breaking the cast torsion bar mouting, or to the a arm pivot bolt, making the truck drop to the bump stop when it does. We remove the arms and weld them internally, and weld plates externally, to prevent this from happening. The ARB bolt on plates from what we have seen, dont stop it cracking, but stop it from sitting on the bump stop for a little while, until the flexing of the bracket fatigues it enough to break as well, after the arm is broken, but you can see the beginning of the arm cracking, if the plates are bolted on, without removing them. Thats why welding them and stopping it from being able to happen, was what we considered the best option.



On AHC cruisers, we normally lift those 40mm, [doesnt sound like much, but they self level, so add weight, it wont change, unlike coils] and normally AHC will take 170kg per axle before going to default low setting on the suspension, and with the t bars and coils we add to an AHC vehicle, it will take an additional 200kg per axle before doing so. The AHC also changes the shock valving, when the height changes, so setting one up with changed height, and spring rates can be tricky, but there is a set formula for it, and if it goes wrong, whilst you try and do it, Toyota have one machine in the country you can wait to have shipped to your dealer to adjust the system settings to fix it, and they normally charge between $550 and $1000 depending on the dealer, so dont try it at home......

We also have an over ride unit which will keep your vehicle on the high setting, when engaged, unless its overloaded, but long distance driving with this isnt recommended, unless its wheel aligned at the full height.

AHC ride height LR tank, winch, bull bar, Canning trip.


Fox long travel kit ride height loaded desert trip on 35's.


Fox long travel kit wheel travel


Bilstein Platinum kit ride height.


The Fox Long travel kit we do requires extended sway bar links, bump stop spacers in the rear, and is designed around running 35"tyres with this set up, whilst maximising the available travel, whilst improving handling.

The next thing the 100 IFS needs to be set up, is wheel alignment, and its setting can depend on tyre size, height, weight, to be specific to each vehicle, and has to be set correctly to prevent torque steer when lifted. Will go into this further, in another post shortly.

[ferrit]

Cheers for posting that VooDoo... I just picked up my 100 series and its in desperate need of suspension, so Thats all good info. Probably going to go OME at this point because of budget restraints, but i'll be welding the bloody arms up with the ARB brackets welded on!

[BundyMonkey]

I have this kit in mine and love it

http://www.superiorengineering.com.au/p ... ts_id=6081

Heres a pick of it as it stands today