60 series diffs into my 40...

[Mechman]

hi guys...
im sure i have been told some of this info before, but can someone please tell me what is involved with fitting both front and rear diffs (by that i mean from disc to disc on the front, and drum to drum on the rear) from a 60 to my 40. i have managed to pick these up for a good price and will come with rear handbrake fittings, all booster and master cylinder, prop valves and sway bar (not sure i need that). i have not got the power steering as its too exxy at the mo (wife about to drop a sprog!)

i have heard that the axles are longer on a 60 is this true?.. if so, by how much and is it a problem?.
will i need to alter the tail shaft?.. and are the diff ratios the same?..

thanks guys.. i know the knowledge is out there!!!

Rob

[Sixty]

60 axles are about 70mm longer than 40 ones. As for propshafts, depends on what spring you're guna use. The its the standard springs the standard prop will be the right length but you'll have to change either the diff flange or prop flange, depending on the age of the 60 diffs.

[Mechman]

ok, so i will have to increase the size of my wheel flares to get it thru REgo then?

i am sticking with my 40 springs.. i think the 60 ones will be way to stiff as its a huge thing compared to my SWB.... so will i need to make the mod?.. if so, any idea which is the easier one to do?.. the diff or the prop?


thanks!


Rob

[Eddywelder]

I am doing this conversion at the moment and since the 60 series diffs are 70 mm wider, the spring perches are also wider apart than the 40 series about 60 mm...I had to refab the front and rear spring hangers to suit the 60 diff/axle housing which wasnt a big deal as I did a front shackle reversal at the same time...the rear diff/axle housing will also need to have the perches adjusted to suit also..

[skootin]

you may want to check the width of the spring mounts they are a little bit wider on the 60ser I think

[Mechman]

I am doing this conversion at the moment and since the 60 series diffs are 70 mm wider, the spring perches are also wider apart than the 40 series about 60 mm...I had to refab the front and rear spring hangers to suit the 60 diff/axle housing which wasnt a big deal as I did a front shackle reversal at the same time...the rear diff/axle housing will also need to have the perches adjusted to suit also..

do you have any pix of what you have done here?
i am going to use my springs as they are softer i think, but im going to use the 60 shocks as the mounts are different. a couple of other questions... im getting conflicting statements about whether or not i need an engineers cert for a mod plate???.. and also diff ratios.. are they the same as my 40's?. i am looking for this info now, so i may find it.

ta

[Eddywelder]

no pix yet as the diffs arnt back under it ...at present I am trying to find someone who can rebuild the diffs as well as fit air lockers at the same time....when I bought the 60 diffs I was told the ratios are the same as the 40 diffs...I am using the original springs but have removed 3 leaves from each pack as previously they were too stiff for the springover and I welded shock mounts similar to the original 40 series setup...as for engineering etc that I will have to find out as well as I am not sure..

Eddy.

[Mechman]

i have since found out more...

here in QLD you do need a MOD plate.. in fact i need 2. one for the rear axle change and another for the brakes. i have been told $60 each if i do the work and he just checks.. which i am more than happy with. i did ask at my local roadworthy place and he said he would turn a blind eye if they where not MOD plated as he classes them as an improvement. but, hey, for 120 bucks its not worth being in the wrong when i get pulled... as im sure i will.

i am not going to do a SOA.. but i am thinking of reversing the shackles.. have you looked at this?.. also, i am going to "undo" the clamp around the leaves instead of removing any... i have read that this will help articulation quite a lot. apparently the RS improves handling both on and off road...

i will take some pix as i go and we can compare..

fun aint it...

Rob

[ORSM45]

diff centres/ratios are identical. you can even whack in your old 40 series centres.

im putting some 60s under mine, but SPOA. just gonna move the perchs on the housing. but for SPU i would move the hangers because the perchs have to go onto the pumpkin more and it raises 25mm. (or lowers in spring under)

standard 40 series springs.

wont be for a while, i still gotta rebuild my axles.

for now air locker front, LSD rear, vented and slotted rotors on front, rear disc brake conversion.


MaccA

[Mechman]

diff centres/ratios are identical. you can even whack in your old 40 series centres.

im putting some 60s under mine, but SPOA. just gonna move the perchs on the housing. but for SPU i would move the hangers because the perchs have to go onto the pumpkin more and it raises 25mm. (or lowers in spring under)

standard 40 series springs.

wont be for a while, i still gotta rebuild my axles.

for now air locker front, LSD rear, vented and slotted rotors on front, rear disc brake conversion.


MaccA

hmm, interesting... but can you clarify about moving the hangers?.. is it easy?... havent got the 60 ones in front of me yet, so still a bit confused...

thanks for the diff ratio confirmation too MaccA

[ORSM45]

um with the 60 series axles, because the extra 3 inch width is from a 3 inch longer 'long side' axle. the pumpkin moves over 1.5 inches. if you look at your 40 series housing then measure towards the pumpkin 1.5 inchs. thats about where the perches sit.

you will notice that by moving the perch in 1.5 inchs it will also lower it around 1 inch, because its going on the pumpkin. thats why if you move the hangers out 1.5inch you wont lose that inch.

i havent ever moved the hangers out. but id say there would be someone who could give you more specific information on how to do it.

MaccA

[Mechman]

hmm, thanks Macca...
i still dont have the diffs here to compare yet, but i will have a better idea when i get them. i went to Qrock this weekend and was supprised to see the 2 compeating FJ40's both had the original drums... set up with booster and bigger master cylinder. maybe thats the better way to go after all???

comments anyone?

[ORSM45]

the drums still work fine. but after river crossings and also when adjusting them they become a PITA. nothing major really. as long as you have discs up front they will pull up fine.

with your tie rod ends on your steering, the 60 series is much larger than the 40 series ones. the threads on the 60 series tie rod end, where it screws into the tie rod, are also larger in diameter.

i found this out the other day when trying to fit the 60 series power steering. so now im just going to fit the 60 axles. got the rear in.

MaccA

[NICK]

diff centres/ratios are identical. you can even whack in your old 40 series centres.

MaccA

thats providing that one isnt fine and the other coarse, or you will need to change the inners on the 40 housing or the 60 to suit. that said though it will work out well if they are and same, you will get a spare ctr and 2 cv's


NICK

[NICK]

i am sure you could retain the standard height and not loose the 25mm buy notching the housing and moving the perch.

another thing to consider is the differance in tie rod ends, do your axles come with them. if not it is going to be another out lay.



NICK

[Meldge]

I like this subject as I am looking at putting the same diffs in a MWB FRP TOP (FJ73).

Talking about moving the spring perches in on the diffs (knew I had to do that) but havent looked into whether it will be too close to the pumpkin, anyone know for this model cruiser.

I will be getting diffs rebuilt at the same time as the perches get moved.

Wont be happening yet as I have a mate selling a VR Senator Engine (Engine, computer loom and box) that I am actually going to see the bank for funding.

These guys know there stuff, lets see if they know about the MWB diffs too then.


Meldge...

[ORSM45]

i think they are the same. someone else may say.

i can check if you measure the outside edges of your leafs.

MaccA

[ORSM45]

after taking my front axle to get the perches done by someone else. they said if you notch the pumpkin you only lose 10mm in SPU and gain 10mm in SPOA. 73s are the same as 40s.

[Mechman]

how much did they charge for the perch mods?

i am seriuosly thinking of just fitting a booster to my exisitng and getting the drums set up properly. i can see this running into more dollars than i want to spend just now. i have seen someplace that if the drums are set up good with a duel masters and booster they are pretty compatable with the discs.. and thats really the only reason i can see for swapping to the 60's...

any ideas on a booster to use?

[NICK]

73s are the same as 40s.

do you mean width wise? cause i am sure they are different. a 73 has the same diffs as a hj-fj-75 cruiser which are wider than the 40's. there would be no point in fitting 60s diffs to a 73, you would be better of with late HJ or any HZJ diffs, you will get HP front and four wheel disc. CV's in the HZJ are different to other cruisers so be aware of this if you have a diff lock as they are expensive.

NICK

[the_smoo]

if you want to set up your drums heres a good tech spot..

http://jeffzepp.cruiserpages.com/tech/brakes.htm

[Mechman]

thanks Smoo... looks like a good site.