Hello
I like to know how much castor correction is possible with a x-link.
My castor is far out and it would be perfect if a get rid of that problem with a x-link only.
Buying radius arms and x-link will be a bit heavy on the wallet.
Drop boxes are no option because the axle is fit in a Range Rover.
Thanks for any advice.
Chris
Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
X-Link and Castor
Re: X-Link and Castor
you can go up to 5deg caster correction with the X-Link, which will sort out up to 6-7" lift, only problem is where you will have to weld the pivot shaft, it will be aiming down towards the ground
AA's for Quitters
Re: X-Link and Castor
Hi MyGQ
Thanks for your info!
Hmm - thats right with the pivot shaft. Is that how people do the castor correction with a x-link?
Or is there enough space to build a bracket that just move the x-link down and a bit back?
Maybe it is not a good idea at all, because the length different from the radius arm bolt on the axle housing and the bolt on the x-link varies more with castor correction. Or i am totally wrong now.
Chris
Thanks for your info!
Hmm - thats right with the pivot shaft. Is that how people do the castor correction with a x-link?
Or is there enough space to build a bracket that just move the x-link down and a bit back?
Maybe it is not a good idea at all, because the length different from the radius arm bolt on the axle housing and the bolt on the x-link varies more with castor correction. Or i am totally wrong now.
Chris
Re: X-Link and Castor
you might be better off doing what i did.. make your own xlink and off set the pivot instead of drilling 90degrees downwards try around about 80degrees and then weld your pivot pin to diff in position to correct castor and it will look alot better then it usually would. make sure you use some sort of poly bush or something a like. i used a type of panhard bush. works really well.
Re: X-Link and Castor
if your currantly running plates to correct caster setting up the Xlink takes ait more.
To install a X-Link with plates you first need to remove the plates and bolt the X-link onto the radius arms, you can then have to attach the pivot bolt to the diff to keep the caster angle correct, so this would mean the pivot would be aimed more towards the ground. since i have drop arms my pivot bolt is aimed straight ahead off the diff.
To install a X-Link with plates you first need to remove the plates and bolt the X-link onto the radius arms, you can then have to attach the pivot bolt to the diff to keep the caster angle correct, so this would mean the pivot would be aimed more towards the ground. since i have drop arms my pivot bolt is aimed straight ahead off the diff.
AA's for Quitters
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest